What is everyone using for a fuel cell (Page 1 of 2)

http://www.24hoursoflemons.com/pricesandrules.aspx

3.25: Fuel Tanks/Fuel Cells: All fuel systems, including OE fuel tanks and aftermarket fuel cells, must be sound and in good working order. Maximum allowed capacity is 24 gallons or less. Fuel tanks or cells must be completely behind, or completely in front of, the driver (unless OE parts in their OE locations). No second fuel tanks allowed (unless OE parts in their OE locations).

        3.25.1: Aftermarket Fuel Cells Versus OE Fuel Tanks. Fuel cells are allowed,but they are NOT mandatory. Don't make the rookie mistake of assuming that anything billed as a "fuel cell" is safer than a sound OE fuel tank.High-quality, professionally constructed, correctly installed fuel cells tend to be safer than OE tanks; cheap and/or poorly installed fuel cells tend to be less safe than OE tanks.
        3.25.2: Fuel Cell Installation: If you decide to install a fuel cell, it must be securely mounted in a professional manner and must be installed in a safe location where it won't be damaged in an impact or drag on the ground if the car leaves the track. All aftermarket fuel components must use threaded fittings and appropriate hose types, and must include all appropriate racecar-quality vents, valves, and other safety features. Fuel-cell installations will be judged on their overall execution and apparent safety. Cars whose fuel cells do not feature internal foam, a puncture-resistant bladder, and/or metal encasement are considerably more likely to fail tech inspection.

Also this section spells out an FIA certified fuel cell if it is going to be sharing the passenger compartment with the driver (or in the rear hatch area in a hatchback)

3.18: Fuel Bulkhead: The fuel-tank area must be totally separated from the driving compartment. For example, if the fuel tank is in the trunk area, any openings between the trunk and the cockpit must be permanently sealed with bolted, riveted, or welded metal panels. OE fuel tanks that are separate from, and located completely below, the trunk floor or rear-cabin floor are acceptable. If the fuel tank can't be completely separated from the cockpit by metal panels, a metal-encased, FIA-certified fuel cell with all related compliant fittings must be used.

I'm not sure that I'd jump to that conclusion with regard to fuel cell versus OE tank. At least on relatively modern cars, the OE tank is remarkably safe due to all the testing and safety regs that the Federales require.  But the second part -- cheap and/or poorly installed cells being less safe than OE tanks -- is a fair conclusion.

It bears mention that a "fuel cell," for Lemons purposes, is comprised of three critical parts: (1) a purpose-built metal can (2) in which is placed a puncture-resistant fuel bladder (3) which is filled with foam.  Anything else is just a fuel tank. The 2013 rules are expected to draw this distinction more clearly and emphasize that anything other than a fuel cell or the OE tank in its OE application is pretty unlikely to pass tech.

It also bears mention that the installation of a fuel cell is fraught with peril and cannot be accomplished without significant financial outlay. It is not the place to cut corners and tech is exceedingly (and justifiably) strict with regard to fuel cell issues.

Any steel tank with a deformable bladder that is properly installed will pass tech, but if it's not FIA certified it needs to be completely isolated from the passenger compartment, meaning either in a trunk with all openings blocked off or with a metal housing built around it.  The "fuel cells" that don't have a bladder will not pass tech - arguably they're not actually fuel cells but rather just gas cans.

The cell needs to be solidly mounted with a full perimeter enclosure.  You can't just set it down in a well - it needs to have bars or heavy steel angle over it.  It should have a cage around it for crash protection.

If I raced a car with the OE fuel tank behind the rear axle I personally would ditch it and put in a proper fuel cell.

I added a picture on page 3 of this thread http://forums.24hoursoflemons.com/viewt … p?id=18488 It shows the frame we had to add around our "Jegs" fuel cell at Autobahn. Because it is not an FIA cell we had to isolate it from the driver, in the case of a hatchback this means below the floor in the back. Jay didn't like that it was open to rear impact. We were never 100% comfortable with it as it was so had no problems adding the bars.

Important thing is to make sure it is secure, isolated from the driver by a metal firewall and not prone to explosion in the case of rear impact.

Can't see why you would keep the old tank.  It is against the rules to use both, so it would just be a big hunk of metal adding weight to the car, plus its hard to make sure the tank is 100% empty without dropping it.  So I'd assume you should remove the old tank.

You could fill it with jello to lower your center of gravity. Add vodka and you could break it open at the end of the race like a piñata and have jello shots.

you would think they would make the foam out of a silicone base so that wouldnt happen.

Probably helps to empty the cell between races as well.

Do you mean  ethanol or methanol?  Gas is mixed with ethanol.  Methanol is a race fuel that's a good bit more volatile.

Or do I have that mixed up?  I am pretty sure it lists ethanol content on the gas pumps.

Its just my prediction that when the foam is required in the cells - there will be lots more discussion about it.

So far we have just dealt with the slosh.

You have two options when going with a fuel cell and either one is both costly and time consuming.

Non-FIA rated RCI cell-  it is of good quality but there are drawbacks since the pickup is in the right rear corner and it doesn't come with foam.  After purchasing the foam, Walbro fuel pickups (that's right, plural as you'll need one for each rear corner of the cell) and in-tank hose, you'll end up saving about $200-$300 over Option 2.  If you are running a carburetor, have a trunk rather than a hatchback then go this route.

FIA rated ATL or Fuel Safe cell- Better quality, comes with foam and pickups, and works better with fuel injected cars better than a roundy round cell.  Plus, you don't have to build a metal bulkhead.

As far as execution of the install, e-mail The Evil One to get his blessing.

If your car doesn't have starvation issues and it has the capacity to go 2 hours before re-fueling, I'd stick with the OEM tank.  Just my .02