Topic: I need some Mopar help

My nephew has this 2000 Dakota 4x4... 5.9 Magnum, 180K when the oil pump failed and took out all the mains plus 3/4 of the rod bearings.

I go on Craigslist, and find the only reasonably-priced replacement for it, out of a '97 Ram 1500. Upon stripping it down for cleanup/re-gasket/paint, I discover that it's actually a 5.2.
Whatever, let's just get it in there and we'll deal with whatever comes up when it's running... fast-forward a couple weeks, since I work overnights at the hospital datacenter and can only really work on it once a week, and it's all installed and we get ready to start it. It fires right up, it wants to run. Let it idle and plug up the couple odd vacuum leaks that occur, and it smooths out, holding 650-700rpm, no weird noises, steady exhaust tone, no white smoke or any other signs of trouble.

And then, after about 10 minutes, once the temperature starts to really come up, it starts PUKING black smoke. Like, it filled up the 40x60 garage in about 45 seconds even with the exhaust fans blowing. So I shut it down, and start checking sensors. O2 is plugged in, MAP tests out within spec at 0/5/10/15/20"Hg, but the top of the ECT sensor breaks off as I jiggle the connector. No problem, I run to Autozone, grab a new one, test it on the bench and throw it in. Restart, now that it's cooled off for two hours, and it idles fine, no problems for several minutes, until it warms up and again starts belching fuel-rich exhaust.

This time, I unplug the O2 to see if that makes any difference, and it does not. My co-idiot friend thinks the problem is related to the fact that it's got a 5.9L PCM and is just dumping too much fuel... to which I point out that the difference between a 318 and a 360 is negligible, and that a 90cc-per-hole difference isn't going to make it dump so much fuel that it nearly puddles on the ground at the tailpipes.

So now, we're at the point where we've built a circuit with a potentiometer so that we can manually tweak with the MAP voltage and see what happens, but I'm not convinced that it will make any difference. The EFI on this thing is painfully simple and it's pissing me right off that I can't figure out what the problem is...

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Re: I need some Mopar help

Is a scanner available?

Not dodge specific and assuming you used the 5.2 injectors

Sounds like your front o2 is dead, runs fine in open loop thus proving it operates with the 5.9 program till closed loop starts looking for o2 change.......... it slowly dumps more and more fuel till smoke.

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Re: I need some Mopar help

Yeah, and to add to the complexity, when we got it, the cat had been chopped and replaced with a piece of too-small pipe. There is no rear sensor - I couldn't even find a pigtail for one. Nor are there two upstream sensors, as I'd expect, just a single one in the base of the Y-pipe where the front of the catalyst would be... I think need to spend some time in Alldata looking over the wiring diagram.

Thanks Ed.

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Re: I need some Mopar help

One front sensor is a possibility, no rear sensor is not a crisis as its only job it to confirm operation of the cat and does not affect mixture, too small pipe will only be a airflow choke point that would limit top hp.

Buy a cheap direct fit (pigtail included) front o2 and save the diagnostic headache as even if it wasn't bad it is fouled now.

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Re: I need some Mopar help

I sounds like an injector is stuck/being held open. A pinched /grounded injector control circuit wire may be your issue. or just a plain faulty injector. With the engine cold it can use up the additional fuel until it warms up. I would suggest going over every inch of the injector wires for a control side short to ground.
Hope this helps
Manny.

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Re: I need some Mopar help

Carburetor time.

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Re: I need some Mopar help

With the engine running, put a stethoscope (or a long screwdriver) on each injector. You should hear them click as they cycle on/off. Investigate further those which aren't clicking.

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Re: I need some Mopar help

gtopat wrote:

With the engine running, put a stethoscope (or a long screwdriver) on each injector. You should hear them click as they cycle on/off. Investigate further those which aren't clicking.

One of the first things I did... they all cycle appropriately as I vary the engine speed.

Apparently my brother-in-law took my nephew to the Pick-a-part this morning and they bought a PCM out of a '96 Ram 1500 with a 5.2. They stuck it in the truck and aside from the gauges not working, apparently it runs great. He even drove it home, almost 20 miles away, after several long test-drives around the shop. And apparently they've found someone down in Pompano Beach - a 3 hour drive away - who claims to be able to pull the old 5.2L program off the junkyard PCM and flash it onto the '00 computer so that the gauges will work. I'm skeptical but there's enough of a community for Dakota R/Ts out there that I don't see any reason someone wouldn't be able to do so.

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Lackey-mechanic-whatever/NSF Racing
Sycophant/Judge Phil, Jay Lamm, Kim Harmon
Galaxie Driver/not Parnelli Jones

Re: I need some Mopar help

Do the 2 engines have different EGR valves?  May be opening the EGR valve on the 5.2 too much.  EGR valve would be closed when cold.

Re: I need some Mopar help

No EGR on the Mopar Magnum engines...

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Galaxie Driver/not Parnelli Jones

Re: I need some Mopar help

I'm curious. Semi-rehabilitated mopar addict here.

This was a 4x4 truck with a 360? From what I understand, the only dakotas that came with a 360 were the R/Ts, and they were all 2wd. That makes this extra confusing to me.

That aside, I think the coolant temperature sensor and intake air temperature sensor had some changes around 98.

Re: I need some Mopar help

Yeah, it was not a popular option, but it's a quad-cab 4x4 SLT, pretty much loaded. I had no idea non-R/T 5.9s existed up til last summer.

The change in the sensors was related to the changeover to electronic instrumentation. Previously there were two coolant sensors, on either side of the thermostat housing; one was a two-wire sensor, which feeds the PCM, and the other was a one-wire that drove the temperature gauge in the cluster. In 98 they changed the casting of the "beer keg" intake to eliminate the hole on the right side of the housing.

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Re: I need some Mopar help

My buddy is a Chrysler master tech who build the Fairlady Mopar it's a 300zx with a 4.7 v8

His name is dan Keller 510-685-9723 pacific time

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Re: I need some Mopar help

Thanks Chris... he sent the PCM off to have it flashed with a 5.2 image. It ran great on the '96 PCM, aside from the no gauges thing. If it doesn't work I'll hit your buddy up. cool

Official photographer/Team Police Brutality|Speedycop & the Gang
Lackey-mechanic-whatever/NSF Racing
Sycophant/Judge Phil, Jay Lamm, Kim Harmon
Galaxie Driver/not Parnelli Jones