1 (edited by meistro 2016-07-01 10:24 AM)

Topic: Please review my cage design

So we're scrambling to get our first Lemons build complete for Joliet and I figured before we start bending tube I'd get some comments from Lemons seasoned soon to be friends big_smile. Tube is 1.75x.095 DOM. Gussets are 1.25. All plate is A36 .125". Colors are to make it easier to comment.

The bend radius is 6". Please comment about integrity. Thanks I appreciate very much.
I wanted the 'X' door tubes design to aid in entry/exit. I wasn't fond of only having one continuous member there though. Will tech be ok with my door tubes? I believe more force will be required to push that in compared to the 3 tube X design and it's less work not grinding those long copes. (I only get 60 degrees on my coper)

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f35/meistro57/cage1_zpsu3udqdxi.jpg


http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f35/meistro57/cage2_zpsuapxacud.jpg

Re: Please review my cage design

Basic design looks good. The proportions of the halo to A-pillar bars looks weird. Just looks like a small hoop and then huge long a-pillar bars. But not knowing what car this is going in i guess you could just have a huge sloping windshield.

Door bars like that are ok. Make sure you meet the minimum spacing between the two where they attach to the A and B pillar bars. Also be weary of were they mount in general. If you put them too low tech may claim that the lower one is a sil bar, not a door bar.

20+ Time Loser FutilityMotorsport
Abandoned E36 Build
2008 Saab 9-5Aero Wagon
Retired - 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby 2011-2015 "Lifetime Award for Lack of Achievement" IOE, 3X I got screwed, Organizer's Choice

Re: Please review my cage design

The roof is only 36" wide.  Door bars are 8" out to out vertically. How high you think they should be? I was thinking about putting them in after the seat is installed. If the bottom horizontal tube is around the same elevation as my knees as sitting in seat you think that would be effective?  I'm leaning more towards effectiveness rather than bare minimum. After all it's purpose is to keep our drivers safe smile

It's a 1998 VW Jetta GLX. We call it Smokesgaggin.

Re: Please review my cage design

Thanks for looking BTW. I was a little concerned about the A pillar to halo on where to meet the bend. Its 6"radius. I figured getting the A pillar out of windshield view would be desirable. The hoop is also a little lower than the top of B pillar horizontal member due to radius of bend.

Mark

5 (edited by TheEngineer 2016-06-29 09:08 AM)

Re: Please review my cage design

meistro wrote:

The roof is only 36" wide.  Door bars are 8" out to out vertically. How high you think they should be? I was thinking about putting them in after the seat is installed. If the bottom horizontal tube is around the same elevation as my knees as sitting in seat you think that would be effective?  I'm leaning more towards effectiveness rather than bare minimum. After all it's purpose is to keep our drivers safe smile

It's a 1998 VW Jetta GLX. We call it Smokesgaggin.

Door bar separation should be good then. Rules are as follows

Minimum Door Bar Separation. Whether the door bars are parallel or X-shaped, the top edge of the highest bar and bottom edge of the lowest bar must be at least 7.5 vertical inches apart at both ends

It's a good idea to put the door bars in last. Get the seat in place, get the main cage elements in, then do door bars so you can see what you need to clear. As far as height. I like this setup (see picture). Put in a true sil bar, then put the X above it. you can do it as you outlined above with two bent bars instead of the traditional 3 pieces.

http://cdn1.bigcommerce.com/server1700/7d8b8/products/620/images/3702/IMG_0503__03498.1446594866.1280.1280.JPG?c=2

20+ Time Loser FutilityMotorsport
Abandoned E36 Build
2008 Saab 9-5Aero Wagon
Retired - 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby 2011-2015 "Lifetime Award for Lack of Achievement" IOE, 3X I got screwed, Organizer's Choice

Re: Please review my cage design

I like that better. Can I attach tubes from the sill to the tunnel for mounting the seat? I would put spreader plates at tunnel to tube attachment. Also I'll put a vertical stiffener tube to the X from the sill where the seat mount tube is.

I haven't put too much thought into seat to floor attachments. I don't trust the integrity of the floor too much. The tunnel is rock solid and has nice curvature.

Thanks

Re: Please review my cage design

Looks awesome!

Probably a typo in the original post, but tubing is supposed to be a minimum of .095" thickness.

As for the upper door bar on the passenger side: Consider bringing the top bar at the halo all the way up to the junction with the harness bar (like how you have the front of the top tube connected at the dash bar).

If this is your first cage, you'll have lots of fun notching those A-pillar bars to meet tightly in the halo tube on the radius. I really like that design. Executing it takes patience.

Same for those gussets at the halo-hoop junction. I'm not sure what the gussets on the roof plane will do in terms of resulting safety increase vs effort. Sizing up, notching and welding in that gusset would likely be a day's work for me.

It all looks very safe. Nice work. Be sure to post up pics of the actual cage when you're done so there's a record of this effort for others in the future to look at and learn from.

8 (edited by meistro 2016-07-01 10:40 AM)

Re: Please review my cage design

Phew thanks!! Great replies I love it. I've never raced Lemons or any other racecar related event. I've done about 6 demo derbys and endured a few highway rollovers... but.. thats different tongue

Yes .095. I'll bring heat certs. to tech big_smile I have some tricks up my sleeve for the cope into radius. Utilizing CAD is almost like cheating haha.

Here's a template
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f35/meistro57/cope1_zpsg6dflksv.jpg

and a few revisions..

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f35/meistro57/cage6_zpsbjdvglfh.jpg

Re: Please review my cage design

You can try to tie the seat mount into the roll cage so that if the cage is ever moved  due to contact with another car or fixed object the seat will move with the cage. It's done in many types of racing but I'm not sure what Lemons thinks of this set up?

10 (edited by rodknox2 2016-06-29 08:08 PM)

Re: Please review my cage design

here's a neat little coping program.  it has center lines and angle/bar info printed on the pattern.  we use heavy duty photo paper for reusability. a plasma cutter and some grinding will make tight joints with little fuss.

http://www.metalgeek.com/static/cope.pcgi

for the 90 degree notches...this notcher isn't cheap but it will fishmouth an end is 6 seconds and it will last generations.

http://www.lowbucktools.com/notcher.html

https://c3.staticflickr.com/6/5586/14444934562_36f45644ed_c.jpgP6140414

Re: Please review my cage design

That script is pretty cool. I've used it in the past and it works well. I'm pretty much hooked on Rhino3D. I use it for my cnc toys and anything surface related at work that ACAD won't handle, like unfolding surfaces with .001 precision for plasma or laser cutting big_smile. I use Advance Steel too for structural/architectural steel work if there is going to be hundreds of sheets of shop drawings. I still usually end up back at Rhino to create NC data however because of it's sheer awsomeness.

As far as the seat goes I took another look at it and I found another way.  I will definitely post pics in here of our progress.  I changed my thoughts about a few cage things based on input from you guys so your comments are appreciated very much. If your in Joliet in July come drink some of our beer smile

Re: Please review my cage design

My advice, and I've built three cages so far, is don't count on the horizontal cross bar on the main hoop to be the correct height for the shoulder harness attachment.  It will likely end up too low, so plan on adding another bar higher up to provide a mounting point for the shoulder harness.

Captain
Team Super Westerfield Bros.
'93 Acura Integra - No VTEC Yo!

13 (edited by meistro 2016-07-01 10:41 AM)

Re: Please review my cage design

Something like this acceptable?

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f35/meistro57/cage5_zpsvlyzhxpx.jpg

Not sure why my images won't link.

Re: Please review my cage design

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipO … gtd2lLdHZn

I'm going to guess that since it doesn't contain a picture type suffix (i.e. .jpg, .png, etc), the forum software doesn't know what to do with it.  I just marked it as a url and it then becomes clickable.

But yes, that's what he's talking about on the harness bar

1990 RX7 "Mazdarita"  1964 Sunbeam Imp (IOE 2013 Sears Pointless) 2002 Jaguar x-type (Winner C-Class 2021 Sears Pointless)
Gone bye-bye
1994 Jaguar XJ12 (Winner C-Class 2013 Sears Pointless)  1980 Rover SD1 (I Got Screwed 2014 Return of Lemonites)

Re: Please review my cage design

I've been having issues sharing pictures hosted by google on a number of forums. I've given up and started just throwing them all to photobucket or similar for forum duty.

20+ Time Loser FutilityMotorsport
Abandoned E36 Build
2008 Saab 9-5Aero Wagon
Retired - 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby 2011-2015 "Lifetime Award for Lack of Achievement" IOE, 3X I got screwed, Organizer's Choice

Re: Please review my cage design

TheEngineer wrote:

I've been having issues sharing pictures hosted by google on a number of forums. I've given up and started just throwing them all to photobucket or similar for forum duty.

Photobucket it is. Thanks, I've fixed my images. It would be really cool if we could embed an HTML5 Canvas in these posts. I could then display my cage in 3D where viewer can zoom & orbit. I haven't tried though so who knows.

Re: Please review my cage design

Here's where I'm at currently. I'll check/confirm a few dimensions obviously prior to cutting tube and it's likely the dash bar will move up or down etc.. the spreader plates don't really look this way in reality so all tubes attaching to those will have some material to trim off.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f35/meistro57/cage6_zpsufdmfqea.jpg

LEFT...

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f35/meistro57/cage7_zpsobf2spnz.jpg

FRONT..

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f35/meistro57/cage8_zpsdj0yko88.jpg

Any more suggestions/comments, concerns? I'm going to save seat discussion for a separate topic.

Thanks!!!

Re: Please review my cage design

Only suggestion would be that you might consider bowing out the driver door bars some.  How much is kind of subjective but it does make ingress/egress a bit easier.  It also moves that Crown Vic front bumper just that little bit farther away from your little bod if you find yourself stopped sideways in the middle of the track.  I know it makes the cage structure a bit weaker but it would involve a hit of massive force to deform it enough to make much of a difference in practice.  Even just rolling out the top bar or having it travel a bigger arc outwards than the bottom part of the X helps.

1990 RX7 "Mazdarita"  1964 Sunbeam Imp (IOE 2013 Sears Pointless) 2002 Jaguar x-type (Winner C-Class 2021 Sears Pointless)
Gone bye-bye
1994 Jaguar XJ12 (Winner C-Class 2013 Sears Pointless)  1980 Rover SD1 (I Got Screwed 2014 Return of Lemonites)

Re: Please review my cage design

cheseroo wrote:

Only suggestion would be that you might consider bowing out the driver door bars some.

I agree with this.   It takes very little extra effort, gives you an extra margin of safety,
and gives you a bit of extra room to work when strapping the driver in.
I was able to bow mine out at least two inches without cutting into the door at all.

"I don't suffer from insanity, I enjoy every minute of it!"
IOE winner in the Super Snipe -- Buttonwillow 2012
IOE winner in Super Snipe v2.0 -- Buttonwillow 2016
"Every Super Snipe in Lemons has won an IOE!"

Re: Please review my cage design

cheseroo wrote:

Only suggestion would be that you might consider bowing out the driver door bars some.  How much is kind of subjective but it does make ingress/egress a bit easier.  It also moves that Crown Vic front bumper just that little bit farther away from your little bod if you find yourself stopped sideways in the middle of the track.  I know it makes the cage structure a bit weaker but it would involve a hit of massive force to deform it enough to make much of a difference in practice.  Even just rolling out the top bar or having it travel a bigger arc outwards than the bottom part of the X helps.

I like that suggestion and it makes perfect sense structurally. Thanks.

Re: Please review my cage design

Here's what it would look like at 2" offset assuming the B pillar between front/rear door doesn't get in the way.  If it does I could just move the rear bends forward until it does clear. I'm not doing these until the seat's mounted but it helps me visualize and better explain my design and how I interpret what you guys are telling me. tongue 

I think after the seat's in and we have real dimensions to work with, we'll tack in the top bar to see how it is in reality. All my drivers should be okay with it's location. Does tech actually test the drivers escape from fully strapped in position?

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f35/meistro57/cage9_zps6wjyqvmf.jpg

Re: Please review my cage design

You can google cage door bars and see scads of designs but for the type of door bar you display, I was thinking something along the lines of below.  Where your bars are bent to accomodate the outward clearance, the type below appears that they have lengthened the bars and rotated them outward slightly to get the desired clearance.  What you want to avoid is an S type bend where the door bar meets the main hoop as you avoid the B pillar.  While legal in Lemons, it's less than optimal.  I've seen people notch the B pillar to minimize the bends required.  In reality, you can try to plan all this but the door bars are the last thing you do and physical realities may preclude your original design from happening.  Also, any work you need to do to the interior you'll want to do before you weld the door bars in.  Up until those go in, moving around inside is a bazillion times easier than after they go in.  Even simple stuff like mounting the extinguisher gets more complicated with door bars.

And yes, they will make you demonstrate an ability to get out while strapped in.

http://www.eatsleeptinker.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/SpecE46_IMAG2497.jpg

1990 RX7 "Mazdarita"  1964 Sunbeam Imp (IOE 2013 Sears Pointless) 2002 Jaguar x-type (Winner C-Class 2021 Sears Pointless)
Gone bye-bye
1994 Jaguar XJ12 (Winner C-Class 2013 Sears Pointless)  1980 Rover SD1 (I Got Screwed 2014 Return of Lemonites)

Re: Please review my cage design

Oh ok I get it now. It's not additional bends, it's more like they're rolled out of plane to lean out more. Pictures say more than enough smile. I like how the top bar is higher at B pillar being closer to the first bend.

Thanks again. Once I get some tube fit I'll post some pics. I wasn't paying attention and at the worst time possible I ran my bottle empty. Need to run to work to borrow one or weekend is shot. hmm

Re: Please review my cage design

meistro wrote:

I like how the top bar is higher at B pillar being closer to the first bend.

Yea, I tried to suggest that in an earlier post but it didn't come out so well. My English ain't so good.

Re: Please review my cage design

cheseroo wrote:

You can google cage door bars and see scads of designs but for the type of door bar you display, I was thinking something along the lines of below.  Where your bars are bent to accomodate the outward clearance, the type below appears that they have lengthened the bars and rotated them outward slightly to get the desired clearance.  What you want to avoid is an S type bend where the door bar meets the main hoop as you avoid the B pillar.  While legal in Lemons, it's less than optimal.  I've seen people notch the B pillar to minimize the bends required.  In reality, you can try to plan all this but the door bars are the last thing you do and physical realities may preclude your original design from happening.  Also, any work you need to do to the interior you'll want to do before you weld the door bars in.  Up until those go in, moving around inside is a bazillion times easier than after they go in.  Even simple stuff like mounting the extinguisher gets more complicated with door bars.

And yes, they will make you demonstrate an ability to get out while strapped in.

http://www.eatsleeptinker.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/SpecE46_IMAG2497.jpg


My only concern with door bars like this is if you do get hit in the door, odds are it will be below the center of the   X, which would then try to lift that side of the car, potentially rolling the car.  But as far as protection from said bumper making contact with the driver, that should be better.

"She's a brick house" 57th out of 121 and 5th in Class C, There Goes the Neighborhood 2013
"PA Posse" 21st out of 96 and 2nd in Class C, Capitol Offense 2013.
"PA Posse" 29th out of 133 and Class C WINNER, Halloween Hooptiefest 2013
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