Topic: Chevy Engines

For teams that have rain chevy engines, What chevy engines do, and do not work well for Lemons.

Re: Chevy Engines

The SBC has proven to be less reliable then one would think.

Homestead Chump 5th-Sebring 6th-PBIR Lemons 9th - Charlotte Chump  CrashnBurn 9th
Sebring 6th again -NOLA Chump 1st -PBIR Chump Trans Fail 16th
Daytona 11th - Sebring 6th - Atlanta Motor Speedway 2nd - Road Atlanta Trans Fail 61st-Road Atlanta 5th
Daytona 13th - Charlotte 9th - Sebring 2nd-Charlotte 25th broken brakes - Road Atlanta 14 10th-Daytona 14  58th- Humid TT 19th Judges' Choice!

Re: Chevy Engines

Thats what i heard about the 350, was wondering if the 305 was any different. What V6 have you know to work really well, if any.

Re: Chevy Engines

Stay GM and go Buick 3800.  Stays cool, parts even cheaper than for a 305/Buick 307 and it makes most awesome sounds.

Re: Chevy Engines

The chevy V8 isn't that hard to keep alive in Lemons,  we have been running a small block 350 since 2009 and have never had an issue.

This is what we do:

Don't over rev the thing!!   Keep it under 4000 RPM most of the time, spinning it harder only makes it blow up!

Keep it cool!!  Get a big radiator for whatever car you use and make sure it has good airflow,  you don't need to spend a ton of cash, just steal one out of a moving van or get a cheap circle track radiator.  DO NOT remove the thermostat, this engine needs one.

Keep it mild.  Too many teams want to stuff a big cam or different rockers on a VERY old and tired engine, don't do it!

Install a better oil pump, get a melling pump for it, and run a thicker oil,  we use 10W-40,  its not even synthetic and the engine lives just fine.



The 3800 isnt a bad idea though...just sayin..

Team Sucker Punch: Winner Class B Doing Time at Joliet 2023 Autobahn ,Winner Org Choice award Were the Elite Meet to Cheat 2015
Chevy Camaro (Tiger striped #38)  (1989-2017 RIP old friend)
Chevy Corvette 1984......and still racing!

Re: Chevy Engines

OnkelUdo wrote:

Stay GM and go Buick 3800.  Stays cool, parts even cheaper than for a 305/Buick 307 and it makes most awesome sounds.

And you can always supercharger it!

Re: Chevy Engines

We run a 3800 Firebird and I've heard mixed reviews.  We've done 2 races, and we'll do Gingerman this weekend, and have blown 1 engine.  The first one came with the car and some guy smoking crystal meth who drug it 5 miles by a tow cable with a broken steering rack and tie rods owned it before us.  My guess is that he did more damage to the 1st motor than us.  2nd motor was from a junk yard with a tag that said "good" and so far it has been.  If we finish next weekend I'll be all about it, if not there will be a Firebird for sale on here. 

Truth is that getting a decent motor, doing proper maintenance prior to the race, and taking it easy on the motor will make any motor decent for Lemons.  High revving and driving 10 10s  will blow up any motor as well.

Team Glue Sticks
00 Firebird, 02 X-Type, 93 NX2000, 00 Mazda 626 (Sold)
2016 NJMP Heroic Fix, 2017 NJMP Near Heroic Fix except we can't drive, 2017 Thompson I Got Screwed, 2019 Pitt Heroic Fix

Re: Chevy Engines

We're putting our 4th 3800 in our car now.  A couple of things worth looking into - plastic elbows in the coolant loop fail.   Overfill the oil a bit.  Last failure was a cracked head.... not sure when that started however.  We were losing water & overheating, but we aren't positive it happened in that order.

Re: Chevy Engines

As attractive as simplicity is in a race car, fight the urge to race a air-cooled Corvair flat six. Yeah I know you do not need coolant. I know the entire drivetrain is held in with just six bolts. A motor driven fan has to be better than electric, right? Parts are cheap and available everywhere, just like a Buick 215 V8. I think the nail in the coffin is that it spins CCW, like a Honda B motor. Wait, doesn't Advance Adapter make a kit? They don't? I can see the money rolling in now...

'18 PNW-Organizer's Choice '17 PNW-IOE '15 PNW-Judge's Choice '14 PNW-Heroic Fix
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Re: Chevy Engines

the problem with the small block chevy, any size, is the oiling.  The oiling is so good in that motor, that extended rpms will pump the pan dry.  Allot of people install high volume pumps when they rebuild, which makes the problem even worse.  The solution is opeing up the drain holes in the heads, and the intake valley.  Grind the flashing smooth and open the holes up a little.  Also polish the valley walls, or paint to aid in quicker drain back.  Oil restrictors can help even more.  The motor will live a long time with the proper setup.

Re: Chevy Engines

zimsport wrote:

the problem with the flat six chevy, any size, is the oiling.  The oiling is so good in that motor, that extended rpms will pump the pan dry.  A lot of people install high volume pumps when they rebuild, which makes the problem even worse.  The solution is not pumping all the oil past the rings.  Bring a extra barrel of oil (gear oil is best). The motor will live a long time with the proper setup.

FTFY

'18 PNW-Organizer's Choice '17 PNW-IOE '15 PNW-Judge's Choice '14 PNW-Heroic Fix
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Re: Chevy Engines

zimsport wrote:

the problem with the small block chevy, any size, is the oiling.  The oiling is so good in that motor, that extended rpms will pump the pan dry.  Allot of people install high volume pumps when they rebuild, which makes the problem even worse.  The solution is opeing up the drain holes in the heads, and the intake valley.  Grind the flashing smooth and open the holes up a little.  Also polish the valley walls, or paint to aid in quicker drain back.  Oil restrictors can help even more.  The motor will live a long time with the proper setup.


Oye, I forgot to mention that we do this as well.

Nothing fancy, just a dremel tool for the drain holes and some engine pain on the valley!

Team Sucker Punch: Winner Class B Doing Time at Joliet 2023 Autobahn ,Winner Org Choice award Were the Elite Meet to Cheat 2015
Chevy Camaro (Tiger striped #38)  (1989-2017 RIP old friend)
Chevy Corvette 1984......and still racing!

Re: Chevy Engines

zimsport wrote:

the problem with the small block chevy, any size, is the oiling.  The oiling is so good in that motor, that extended rpms will pump the pan dry.  Allot of people install high volume pumps when they rebuild, which makes the problem even worse.  The solution is opeing up the drain holes in the heads, and the intake valley.  Grind the flashing smooth and open the holes up a little.  Also polish the valley walls, or paint to aid in quicker drain back.  Oil restrictors can help even more.  The motor will live a long time with the proper setup.

X2

Regardless of engine, oil control is very important to make an endurance motor live.   A larger capacity oil pan with windage tray, baffles and trap doors will help keep the pump from running dry.  Modifying a stock pan to be deeper or adding baffles is relatively easy,  and can be done cheap.  A deeper pan will need the oil pickup tube lowered to maintain the correct clearance (5/16-3/8").

Oil choice is also important, higher quality oil will withstand the higher temperature without breaking down.  I've had good results using Amsoil, and Brad Penn.  I prefer to run an oil cooler to help lower the oil temps, cooler placement can determine how effective it will be.   

For those that like to rev the piss outta your motor, an oil accumulator is a good option.  It is a pressurized tank, usually in 1,2 or 3 quart capacity.  When oil pressure drops, the accumulator will pump oil into the engine until pressure is equalized, or tank is empty.  As pressure builds back up, the tank is refilled.  Another benefit is that the accumulator will pressurize the oil system before you start the engine, very useful with engines that have been rebuilt or sitting for a long time.  Cost wise, they aren't that expensive, total system can be done for ~$400.  more info @ http://www.accusump.com/accusump_tech.html#Howdoes

Captain- PDank Pedal Pushers
Popped my LeMon at Chubba Cheddar 2013
'96 Camo Cavalier
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Re: Chevy Engines

Wow! I feel especially lucky now!  I pulled a 3400 out of a 100k Oldsmobile, put some gaskets in it  and its been running great since 2012.  I like playing with engines best but it's to the point where I've started messing with suspension bits out of boredom.  And this is with a certain driver using engine braking (breaking?) to slow down at the end of the longest straight.  If he didn't share half my DNA I would be legitimately angry!  But the 3400 lives on.  My only conclusion is that Judge Phil is not wrong about the 60degreeV6.

Rusty Tear Racing "Rally" Fiero
2010 Stafford 2011 Summit, Stafford 2012 Loudon, Loudon Class C Win!
2013 Monticello, Loudon, Loudon 2014 NJMP, Loudon 2015 NJMP, Thompson

Re: Chevy Engines

I've been running a 3.1 GM 60* V6 on and off since 2007. This engine has 25+ weekends on it.
High volume pump, run the oil a quart high. It always has 60-80 psi.

It has a noisy lifter when cold, but it has been a paragon of reliability.

Volvo PV544 (RIP) - now with Chevy 3.9 power!
2007/2012/2013 Driver's Championship (what was I thinking!?) 142 races and counting.
2/25/24

16

Re: Chevy Engines

My gen 2 2.8 gm 60 v6 other than waterpump and fuel injectors spark plugs and wires and serpentine belt is as far as I know never been touched since it left the factory.  Doesn't burn oil and will sit at about 190 all day and night long when on the track, will warm a little in the pits if you don't turn on the fan but still well within its operating range, although Judge Phil did make it seem like ours maybe a fluke

Racing 4 Nickels - 1989 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera
2011 SHOWROOM-SCHLOCK SHOOTOUT  IOE Winner
2012 The Chubba Cheddar Enduro Class C winner
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