Brake caliper substitutions (Page 1 of 2)

I would make sure I looked first at cars that had great pad options.

BMW, Honda and Miata seem to be good first looks.

I wish I had a good cross-ref of calipers, hubs, and rotors with dimensions.  I think you'll have to rely on tribal knowledge.

I'd suggest ditching the original hub/rotor in favor of something that you can actually find at the auto parts store.  I just did a quickie search on rockauto.com and found that a humber snipe uses a wheel bearing with a 1.378id.  That gives you lots of options.  Anything that uses a BR5 bearing or larger (many many domestic cars) is a contender. 

Not too long ago I adapted a Plymouth Volare rotor (5x4.5 pattern, BR2, Br17 bearing, custom bearing spacers, 11" od vented rotor) to a strange spindle with a modified version of this commercially available bracket for chevy full-size calipers:

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/GM-Weld-O … ,3348.html

FWIW, that hub & caliper looks very Jaguar xj6-ish.  That might be a place to look too.

They kinda remind me of Z32 300ZX rear calipers.

Brake budget is unlimeted right?  Wilwood Narrow Dynalite is 3.5" between mounting holes.

Never mind, they would still need a bracket to move them out 2" toward the edge of the disc.

According to info I dug up online late 70s early 80s Toyota Pickup truck calipers are nearly a direct swap for Girling type 16 on Triumph TR6.  The 4x4 ones are 4 pistons too.  Shouldn't be too hard to find one in a junk yard to use as a test case.

http://www.vtr.org/maintain/brake-conversion.shtml

forgot the link.

here's a coincidence for ya: Those ATE calipers looks like what's on the SIMCA that you drove to IOE victory. (If you remember, i replaced the stock ATE calipers with VW ghia calipers.) So, if you can't find parts for the Humber, go ahead and use SIMCA if you need to find compatible discs.

IIRC, the '3' in the Girling 17/3, as used on the SL230, stood for 3 pistons - 2 on the outside and 1 on the inside.  I'm not sure why one would ever want an unbalanced caliper like that (unless you like cracking rotors) and it also may not be compatible w/ a normal Girling 17 which I think only had 2 pistons.

Another vote for adapters.

Stock chevette non-vented front rotor.

We made adapters for stock Saturn Ion rotors and pads. It was almost cheaper doing this than finding rotors/pads for the Chevette. We also figured this would help us in emergency situations if we ever had to run to the parts store.

Oh, and lesson learned. Do your research! We found out after we bought rotors, made an adapter, and bought good pads that the Ion and Ion Redline have different calipers and pads. We have $120 set of race pads sitting on a shelf downstairs. Luckily OE Napa pads were fine for a couple races. One advantage of a slow light car.

Here's the finished product:

This does, of course, assume you've got someone on your team that can fab parts.

Hey, is it possible the inside 1/2 of the Girling 17/3 is the same as the regular Girling 17?  After all the 2 halves just bolt together.

They look like Toyota 79-85 4wd front callipers ,somebody said that

I've already offered a set of Girling 16 (TR3/4/250/6) calipers but the OP said he has a TR4 and they aren't the correct calipers.  Note that the Girling 16's come in 2 configurations on Triumphs, 1 uses metric attachment bolts (16PB) and 1 uses a standard thread (16P).  The late TR6's use the metric and early use standard.  To fit the Toyota calipers to the TR4a-250-6 you need to use the late TR6 caliper bolts that have a metric shank to fit the caliper and a standard thread pitch to go into the caliper bracket.  You also need to cobble up a brake hose with metric fittings on one side and standard on the other.  Note that the toyota truck calipers area for a non-vented rotor.  If you want to go the vented route you need the late 80's 4-Runner calipers instead.

I've gone the toyota caliper upgrade on both of my Triumphs and love how much better they feel.

But I fear that none of this helps out the problem here.