67 Galaxies, what kind of track alignment do they like?

Most cars, and that means old cars like this will like around 2-3 negative degrees of camber. I learned to drive in a '66 Ford so I know that stock they will roll in the turns. If you did something to correct that or at least lessen the roll then stay with the above number. You don't want to go any more then 3.5 degrees neg. as you will then have tire wear problems and likely tire lock up under braking as you will have a smaller contact patch due to the tire lean.

As far as toe, since this is a rear drive car you want toe to be slightly toe in or at 0 toe to start. I measure toe in inches, that is the difference in the distance between the tires when measured in front and in the rear. I would try for no more then 1/8 inch toe in to 0.

The car may be faster with some toe out but you will have to test
this at a Lemons practice or test N tune session when you can.
Toe out on a rear drive car increases steering response at turn in.
It can sometimes be faster as well due to most cars having "Ackerman" steering built in to the steering system, the amount varies between cars as designed in by the suspension engineers.
Look it up if you don't know what this is. The amount of Ackerman steering can effect how the tires respond and also the slip angles each front tire sees.
Setting the alignment to some amount of "toe out" changes the amount of Ackerman steering the tires see and that's why a car may handle better with toe out and another may not.
It can get very complicated and there are chapters in books written about handling that you would have to read  2-3 times to understand it all.

Don't forget caster. It's kind of magic camber if it's set correctly. I don't have a number to shoot for on your car but definitely look into that.

On a classic Ford with more-or-less stock suspension you will likely run out of adjusting threads on the strut rods before you get into the area of too much caster.  That being said, shoot for +5.0 degrees of caster (or more if you can get it; I'd run +8.0 if I could get there).  One thing to watch out for if you make significant changes to the length of the strut rods is that it can lead to binding if you are using urethane lower control arm bushings (stock-type rubber bushings have enough compliance to avoid binding).

I don't know anything about Galaxies, but Caster may be more important than Camber.  Having inadvertently  "designed" a front suspension without caster I can confidently say it is hard to feel what the front end is doing and the car gets a little darty.  Or maybe that's just was a Geo is like when it is all hacked to shit...

90 degrees of negative camber?
MAD STANCE YO

Short twisty tracks, give it some toe out. It will turn in faster, but it will want to turn all the time.

Longer tracks with long straights, 0 toe.

I totally agree with the idea of testing. That is the only way that you can really understand the "best" settings for your car.
However, the "generic" recommendations exist for a reason.

FWD/AWD cars need to be set at near 0 Toe for the street because the wheels pull the mass of the car. That causes the suspension to flex in a way that makes the tires toe in. So, for the track, Toe Out is necessary to get the tires to 0 Toe under acceleration. Under braking the suspension will toe out. Baseline settings around 1/8" - 0" Toe out make sense, and then test.

RWD cars push the mass of the car, so the suspension flexes and toes out under acceleration, and under braking. So for the street a good 1/8"-3/16" Toe In is appropriate. For the track, I'd run 0 - < 1/8" as a baseline, and then test.

I think you're making the assumption that when the a arm bushings are loaded by deceleration or acceleration essentially the steering knuckle / wheel bearing housing is moving forward or back and that movement is changing toe. What can be missing from the thinking of the system is when it moves back the tie rod will swing with it. Depending on its design (or lack of) it could toe in, out, or have no change. Basically, just because the a arm bushings are deflecting doesn't mean the system is increasing or decreasing toe because of that movement.

Then there is delrin and bearing suspensions that don't deflect much at all.  Just getting you thinking.

Zero toe.

Set the baseline to 2 degrees for camber and 5 or 6 for caster.  Caster is like free camber that doesn't affect braking.  static Camber DOES affect braking.

Since this car appears to be a upper and lower arm type configuration, I would assume (I have no idea!) it has camber gain in its compression travel.  Therefore, you should need less static camber.

Once you get it set in that general area, get out your tire pyrometer.  Get your pressures set so the average of the inside and the outside of the tire matches the temp in the middle of the tire.

If you have done this, you can then tune camber (or camber gain) to make teh inside and outside of the tire closer to the same temp.

This is the proper / scientific way to do this.

Other wise, just throw 3 degrees at it and set toe to zero.  Check tire wear.  If wearing outside, add camber.  If wearing inside, remove camber.

^ that is a good way to ruin a set of tires.  A tire pyrometer (necessary) can be had for less than 1 new tire (worth it!)

No, he is busy using his manometer.