agent4573 wrote:https://youtu.be/1tojI4yHAIo
I have the car wired on a 2 prong master kill switch. The battery and alternator go to terminal A, everything that requires power goes to terminal B. This way you throw the switch and all source of power are disconnected from all loads.
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Hmmm.
Just so we're on the same page: The point of the kill switch is to do one thing, de-energize the entire vehicle. It normally does this with a big DPST switch. One pole is a high-amp switch to disconnect the battery from the rest of the car. The other pole is a lower amp switch to disconnect the alternator's regulator from its power supply so that the rotor is de-energized and its magnetic field will collapse and no longer induce the field coils to produce juice. So when the kill switch is thrown, the car has no available source of electricity. The kill switch is supposed to be used on the sources of electricity and completely ignores the users of that electricity including the ignition, fan and lighted dingle balls around the dash.
Your description of how you wired your switch sounds incorrect. It sounds like you have the BAT terminal on the alternator grouped with the battery. Is that correct? If so, depending on where the battery and alternator connect to the rest of the vehicle. It can work, but it ain't right.
And if it is indeed wired this way and the rest of the electrical system is routed through the second pole, the second switch might not be rated to supply the entire rest of the electrical system unless it is one of the hi-amp DPSTs made for systems with one-wire alternators. And in the case of a one-wire alternator, the battery and the alternator use the different poles of the switch.
If I am mistaken and you have it wired correctly, I believe this is a non-issue. Ours goes on about a second or so this and has passed tech the first tech guy that saw it work even said, "Perfect."
When wired correctly, and the switch is thrown, the alternator's rotor core has residual magnetism that takes a moment or two to decay enough not to energize the field coils and continue to making electricity happen.
It takes a fair amount of current to run an ignition system, and that current goes up with RPM. Try elevating your RPM before your turn off the engine. See if that shortens the delay. At tech they always ask you to run the engine up to 2000-2500 RPM.
And, as a practical matter, if it runs no more than two seconds, then whatever emergency you are using the kill switch for is not going to get much worse.
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