Honda Accord tips?

Jack Baruth theme?

Before other folks trash you for this, we ran Yellows on our (lighter) Saturn S-Series for the whole time we had it.  Excellent brakes that stayed exactly the same from first use to last.  They do NOT last like the endurance pads but we used to get 1.5 races out of fronts and 3.5-4 out of the rears.  Check them after race day one and have a back-up plan if you do not have two sets or if Autozone does not stock emergency pads for your car.

Now if you move up in the world to a terrible GM minivan (the ultimate racing machine) do NOT use EBC yellows...or the stock brakes...or the ABS system...or any of the original lines...etc

In 1992 the wagon had bigger front brakes. If you can get the wagon brakes in EBC yellow you can probably swap over wagon calipers + rotors + pads. Rear brakes were the same.

The build:

Disassembly is underway, kids dug it

If you want to check out my build, it's here: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=168323

As for brakes I use Raybestos ST43 (maybe 42? cant remember) pads on the front and they are *awesome* they've lasted multiple races.

On the rear we had stock crappy shoes, but I got a set of performance re-lined shoes from I want to say Porterfield.

It looks like you have an EX accord with the F22A6 motor (140hp) instead of the crappier F22A1 that I have (125hp)  so that's good.  You have the water/oil oil cooler too which is necessary, and you have a rear sway bar.

If budget allows, I would get urethane sway bar bushings, and you can actually fit a larger 16mm rear sway from an Acura CL. I found one in the junkyard for a few bucks.

you'll want a lot of camber in the front, at least 3 degrees, and you can do it many ways, fit DA integra upper control arms, or civic arms, or cheap adjustable ebay stuff. Look aroudn and see what fits your budget.

The front rotors are a PAIN IN THE ASS. But they are cheap so you'll want to replace them before the race. Here's a great howto for the rotors, and if you think you need wheel bearings, replace the bearings and hubs at the same time.
Watch this 5 times before you do them
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UirzXEmnxVc

anything else just ask

Thanks for the tips, ya the front rotors blow, I need one new hub and I am replacing both front besrings. I am replacing all four rotors and both rear calipers. Brakes is how we got the car cheap, the owner didn't want to sink all the $ a shop was going to charge him. Parts are cheap though and I am doing it all. I got 2 new rear performance struts off eBay for $10 lol. Ya I have the rear sway bushings ordered. Lowering the car too. Thanks for the camber tip

My team, races a 1991 Accord LX.  We have three races under our belts so far.  Aventari has recommended a few different threads on cb7tuner.com.  Check out the site.  There are lots of resources there but you have to filter out all the silliness of people who want to "stance" their ride. 

We've struggled with brakes too.  The stock front brakes aren't terrible but we've had trouble getting the race pads to last a whole race.  There are several other Honda and Acura models that have the same basic suspension and lots of the parts are interchangeable.  Prelude and Acura Vigor are both basically the same car.  The early Legend, integra, and CL aren't that different.  There are so many different variations that you can choose parts from.  For instance, if you get the knuckle from an Acura CL 2.3, I think, you can get larger diameter rotors and switch to the rotor over hub design without changing to 5 lugs.  There are several options if you want 5 lugs.  Hell you can even get NSX brakes to fit!

Our accord came with the nissin calipers and we learned that you cannot buy race pads for those calipers unless you order them custom. Porterfield will do that but it is expensive.  So we got some Akebono calipers from a pick n pull.  Race pads are widely available for them.  Oddly the piston is smaller by a few millimeters than the Nissins.  This time we have installed some brake cooling ducts, and our next race is at Thunderhill.  It's easier on brakes than Sonoma so we hope to last the race with one set of pads.  If we don't, I'll be back at the junkyard looking for an Acura CL or one of the other options.  Front end parts from an accord wagon will get you a bigger diameter rotor without changing the hub over rotor.

So far the hub over rotor hasn't been a problem for us.  The first time we had a hell of a time getting the bearings off the hub but when we put if back together we put a bunch of lithium grease between the hub and the bearing race.  The next time we got the used up rotors off without the bearing coming apart. 

We bought the centric stoptech rotors off rockauto and they held up much better than the cheaper rotors we tried the first time.  They were only about $50 each.   We also used adjustable upper control arms in the front to get 3deg camber.  Actually our frame was bent enough that we had -4 on one side and 0 on the other.  We needed the adjustment to make them meet in the middle, so we actually got permission from Judge Phil on those.  Once we had them set correctly we basically welded them in place so they couldn't slip.

On the suspension if you look deep enough on cb7tuner.com you'll find a post where someone recorded the spring rates of various springs you can get for the car.  Most of the lowering spring are as soft or softer than stock which when combined with lowering too much ruins your handling.  The Neuspeed race springs are about twice as stiff as stock but they are bright yellow penalty bait.  I'd love to have some of those and some bilsteins. 

Check us out at picknpullracing.wordpress.com

You didn't say where you are or where you'll be racing.  Wherever it is good luck.

We love our Accord.  A very reliable car so far.  At the last race Judge Phil BS'd us and said "well this car basically defines B class. you aren't gonna win but you'll probably finish if you don't do anything stupid"

Consider heading up to Gibgerman April 22/23, it's a good time to check out other cars and cages and ask a lot of questions and see how the whole thing goes down. Friday is the best day as you can see the tech process and all the cars will be in the paddock most of the time.

Any of you guys have Akebono front calipers?  What pads did you use?

I do and I use the Raybestos ST43 pads

They last multiple races so the $250 price tag is worth it.