The 24 Hours of Lemons Forums → Lemons Tech → 1993 Honda Tech Advice
There was a post on here a few years with all the tech advice you could dream of for a Honda Civic DX or similar from the 90's. Does anyone have a link to it or something. Can't find it in the search.
There was tips on oiling, how to stop the piston sleeves from moving, cooling and other stuff I think.
Mully -
I'm on the #76 Del Soul train...we are sharing a garage with you at the upcoming loudon race this weekend...
Not sure what motor you may have...DX model may be the 1.5 non-vtec?
We run a D16z6 vtec honda delsol, and had a lot of problems related to the things you mention above, popped a motor at each of our first 3 races. Now have almost 3 seasons (9 races) on the same motor without any disassembly.
We had originally heard all of the oiling problems, so we focused heavily on modifying our oiling system, but found that bone stock ended up working much better. We had built a custom oil pan with flappers and about 2qt more capacity, shimmed the spring on the oil relief valve, and "smoothed" out the oil passageways in the oil pump. needless to say that motor spun a bearing or two on its first race and its now trash.
Here's my tips for building one of these honda motors:
1. Shift at 5500
2. ARP head stud kit
3. Shift at 5500
4. Cometic head gasket C4251-030
5. get a radiator out of an acura integra (2x as large)
6. Put 2 fans on the radiator
7. Electronic oil pressure and water temp gauge, with hi/lo warning lights (saved our motor multiple times)
8. Lower temp thermostat (170 vs 185 i believe?)
9. Rotella T6 5w40 oil
10. oil & Filter change before each race, oil changed between sat and sunday sessions
11. Shift at 5500
I'm sure we can chat in the garage this weekend! See ya Friday!
-Vinnie
Thought I run a Integra with different engine (B20), lots of advice for Honda longevity is similar.
I agree with most of what ViniVan says above, except we only use OEM Honda parts (especially the Honda MLS head gasket) unless the particular part in NLA.
The ARP stud kit is definitely the way to go. IIRC, the OEM Honda torque-to-yield head bolts are only torqued to something like 90 ft-lbs, where as the ARP studs are like 160 ft-lbs. That helps keep that head gasket sealed nice and tight!
How do you keep from blowing the HG in the first place? Don't allow the engine to overheat...duh! Get a bigger radiator and be sure it's flushed and the system is clean. Shifting before the the red line is VERY GOOD ADVICE! Our B20 revs to 7K, but we shift around 6,250 to help it live a long and happy life. Best way to ensure this is to forget the tach and get a shift light. Our shift light is brighter than the sun, so none of our drivers can miss it!
I'm personally not really a fan of electronic gauges unless a mechanical version is not practical/cost effective. With no sender to go bad, I trust our mechanical oil pressure and water temperature gauges over the electronic version. That said, pretty much any aftermarket gauge is better than the stock "warm and fuzzy" gauge.
We also run Rotella T6 5W-40, and change it every race. We run a large oil cooler with a V8 Mustang-sized remote mount oil filter, which increases our oil capacity from 4 quarts to 6. We also run the level 1/2 quart over just to be safe.
Cant agree more on the shift light...totally forgot to have that in my list.
we have ours set to come on at about 5300-5400rpm, because no one actually shifts right at the light, you always end up carrying on a bit higher...ensures all shifting is complete WELL before 6k
Whats the point of a small 4 cyl if you gotta shift at 5500?? all joking aside I cant control myself to shift at anything other than limiter haha guess were lucky then!
Whats the point of a small 4 cyl if you gotta shift at 5500?? all joking aside I cant control myself to shift at anything other than limiter haha guess were lucky then!
Come to the Saturn SL2 side..6800 RPM shifts
Whats the point of a small 4 cyl if you gotta shift at 5500?? all joking aside I cant control myself to shift at anything other than limiter haha guess were lucky then!
You know those guys who are in the paddock always changing engines? Us early shifters aren't doing that because we're still turning laps.
Endurance racing is about.....wait for it......endurance!
The D-series engines seem to be more problematic than a B. I'd consider a B20 or B18 swap. We beat the hell out of our H22, no problems (of course now I've just jinxed us).
We redline our F22A motor all weekend, never had a motor failure in 10+ races. I think OP should specify the motor instead of HELP ME WITH HONDA
But yeah like any car, cooling is absolutely paramount.
I can help you swap a K series in that ol' Honda. Then beat the bejeezus out of it like we do. Redline at 8600? Nah, we shift the k20 at 8100 to be safe...lol. I have the red lights on the Aim dash dislpay set to "pissed off" at 8300. It'll handle spirited jaunts to 9000 if someone misses a gear or something, though.
Thanks for all the good info! Im starting a 91 CRX si project! Just got me a B20 today for it and figured id look for advice. Our local junk yard had a deal $65 anything you can cary out. I strapped the B20 to my back and walked out with it for only $65!
Even with the correct mix of motor mounts you will have to take a sledge hammer and indent the driver side frame rail about 5 inches behind the shock tower. The indent needs to be about 1 inch the entire height of the frame rail. Do it before you try to install the B.
Even with the correct mix of motor mounts you will have to take a sledge hammer and indent the driver side frame rail about 5 inches behind the shock tower. The indent needs to be about 1 inch the entire height of the frame rail. Do it before you try to install the B.
Sweet can do. I have a b18 head from a GSR (p72) and the parts to do the ls Vtec. Were debating putting it on. I think id rather have the b20 head on it.
A stock b20 is plenty in a crx, I'd shelve that idea for the time being. Put that ls/vtec kit money towards a LSD trans.
A stock b20 is plenty in a crx, I'd shelve that idea for the time being. Put that ls/vtec kit money towards a LSD trans.
I have all the parts to do the ls/vtec laying around form a project that never happened. But i do still need a trans. Im really leaning toward the stock b20. parts will be easy to find when things go wrong come race day.
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