Topic: How to build a Mid-Engine Italian Race Car

Team: OutaTime

Step 1: Pick your race series. Preferably something with a lot of prestige that will pull high dollar sponsorship opportunities. In this case, 24hrs of Lemons should work fine.

Step 2: Educate your wife about the race. She'll promptly say NO, you're not buying another damn car. Search craigslist vehicle section for the key word of 'Rust'. Show wife picture of 85hp Lancia for $200 that hasn't ran in 20 yrs. Wife will immediately change her mind and suggest that we need to make it look like a Delorian from back to the future. Screen capture add for tech documentation.

http://i.postimg.cc/zGdKLgFy/Day-1-Front.jpg
http://i.postimg.cc/8CjWLzZt/Day-1-Engine.jpg
http://i.postimg.cc/6Q1nKYd7/Add-picture.jpg


Step 3: Purchase said car within 24hrs and have it delivered home before wife can change her mind.

http://i.postimg.cc/sgf5Dc7F/Day-1-home.jpg

Step 4: Evict family of mice.

http://i.postimg.cc/HkwyJTbC/Lancia-mouse.jpg

Step 5: Assign your oldest child a new weekend chore to vacuum out all the mice poop from the new 'time machine race car'.

http://i.postimg.cc/rFWJJX5f/Summer-vacuum-mouse-poop.jpg

Re: How to build a Mid-Engine Italian Race Car

Step 6: Learn about the series and what the hell you just got yourself into. Read everything you can and watch their videos, read blogs, their tech forum, etc. Learn that there are 3 classes and the $500 limit on the car is exclusive of safety and for crap cars like Lancia it's more of a suggestion. If it's a Miata or E30, they will count the penny's spent.

Tell yourself you aren't going to spend any money on it until you get the 'fully rebuilt high performance engine' the stretchy seller said was in it running. 12 hrs later, purchase $3K in parts online after researching and learning all about these epic POS cars.

Inventory all your extra parts, pull the valve covers, pull the plugs and inspect the pistons through the hole and check the oil. Realize that the motor is fresh and hasn't ran. You may just have strong motor (or not, it is a Lancia after all).


Step 7: Gut the interior. Discover juuuuust a little bit of rust. Discover wiring mess under the dash. Learn that it actually all still works (so far).

http://i.postimg.cc/J4txBHhC/Bad-Top.jpg
http://i.postimg.cc/SKVYrVZT/interior-boxes.jpg
http://i.postimg.cc/wBxQg1Zr/Wiring-Mess.jpg
http://i.postimg.cc/XNtLd7BZ/rusty-battery-box.jpg

Re: How to build a Mid-Engine Italian Race Car

Step 9: Skip step 8 because you need to something to blame when it catches fire or something breaks on the track at some point in the future.

Pull the fuel system, remove all the rotted lines, and drain the 20yr old fuel. Clean the inside of the fuel take with acetone and dry. Replace fuel sender. The fuel door cap will definitely be broken and won't open so use a hammer and chisel to make short work of it. If you have a neighbor who has been pissing you off, then his front lawn is a great place to write your name using that old fuel. (Don't do this, instead let it evaporate).

http://i.postimg.cc/j2nWRTRm/fuel-tank-out.jpg
http://i.postimg.cc/zBBbPW6J/gas-cap-remove.jpg

Re: How to build a Mid-Engine Italian Race Car

Step 10: Research the carburetors from the 60's and 70's until you want to claw your eyes out. Learn that the high performance Webber that fits this manifold is the same one used in the 60's and 70's Ferrari V12's and cost more than the car. Instead by something 'close' on amazon that meets the size requirements and buy an aluminum adapter kit.

http://i.postimg.cc/mhxPDnDD/Old-and-new-carb.jpg

Step 11: Watch you tube videos for a week instead of working and teach yourself to TIG weld aluminum.

Step 12: Weld up the lower adapter because it doesn't fit. Grind smooth and re-drill new holes and chamfer for the bolts to make it all work.

http://i.postimg.cc/NFKXLTkN/Carb-spacer-weld-1.jpg
http://i.postimg.cc/66PRgjBF/Carb-spacer-weld-2.jpg
http://i.postimg.cc/xdQLgX9C/Carb-spacer-weld-4.jpg


Step 13: Install new fuel pump, fuel lines, new carb, and completely rewire and install all new digital ignition system.

http://i.postimg.cc/2ygZW6HC/Engine-wiring.jpg
http://i.postimg.cc/q7pCyWG6/Ignition-rebuild.jpg

Re: How to build a Mid-Engine Italian Race Car

Step 14: Convenience your 4'11" wife that she really wants to sit on old rusty/mouse poop floor boards with no seat to help you try and start the car for the first time. Don't be surprised when she will threaten to kill you if she catches fire.

The car will start and actually run! Unfortunately your carburetor research will be an utter failure and over-fuel the engine. Replace carburetors with a stock carburetor that has been freshly rebuilt. Promptly rebuild it 6 times chasing a fuel leak. Diagnose it as a bent float bowl bracket causing the needle valve to stick. Adjust and check it as done.

Step 15: Replace the clutch slave cylinder that is leaking.

Step 16: Pull the steering column out to access the pedal box under the impossible to reach dash. Remove all the master cylinder lines and clutch cylinder lines. Don't worry, 20 yr old break fluid in your hair is normal and can be used as conditioner. The internet says it's harmless, and you can always trust the internet.


http://i.postimg.cc/L4JvJZ5K/MC-replace.jpg

Spend 3hrs using every Italian curse word you can remember while doing what should be a simple swap of both cylinders while on the work bench. Reinstall under the dash while laying in the nearly cleaned up pool of old break fluid.

http://i.postimg.cc/VLbM8q6v/MC-replace-2.jpg

Step 17: While working on the rear breaks, put in an old race seat and realize that with a small car, two drivers 6'3", one driver sub 5', and 4 others of various heights that it may a little bit of a challenge to get all drivers safe and 2" under the top of the cage with helmets on. Floor surgery immanent, and possibly a sawzall convertible...

http://i.postimg.cc/YCzz56ng/Too-tall.jpg

Re: How to build a Mid-Engine Italian Race Car

Step 18: Pick your Jaw up off the floor after you pull the wheels off for the first time to examine the brakes and see what looks like a ‘new’ set of coil over shocks installed. +1 for not having to install them and the previous owner not finishing the project.

http://i.postimg.cc/kGNY72Z5/New-Shocks.jpg

Step 19: If ya'll wanna go fast, get some WOW power. Going fast is all about stopping fast. Spend an entire work week researching Lancia breaking problems, solutions, options to pull new Fiat 500 brakes (same 98mmx4 bolt pattern), research other subaru caliper hacks, and contemplate cutting the whole damn thing up and making your own.

In the end just buy a 'bolt on' front kit from a well known Fiat/Lancia shop and settle on removing half the brake line plumbing to bypass the booster. Apparently over boosted front brakes with light front weight = front lock up.

http://i.postimg.cc/VLRZTbnG/New-and-old-front-brakes.jpg

You're front 'bolt on' kit will remind you again why 90% of aftermarket parts companies are crap. The custom brackets will need to be modified with a grinder, the brake calipers will need to be modified with a grinder for clearance, and the break pads they sold you won't physically fit with the rotor. You'll grind down the brake pads a bit and finish them on your belt sander before finally getting everything together. Don't worry though, brake pad asbestos dust is organic and harmless.

http://i.postimg.cc/vmDK5H1P/Brake-pad-grinding.jpg

Right when you have it all together you'll realize that it appears the hubs are bent. Resist temptation to poor gasoline on the car and light it on fire. Instead, after 2hrs of inspection and measuring you'll realize the spacers behind the rotors aren't fulling seating. Longer bolts and a torque wench will get everything aligned again.

http://i.postimg.cc/hjd33y1T/New-front-brakes.jpg

Re: How to build a Mid-Engine Italian Race Car

Step 20: Rear brakes. You'll completely disassemble these, reinstall them, and then pull them apart 4 times each. Be prepared to waste an entire day. The first 'great idea' will be to use the old front brake pads that are brand new. After you have pulled it all apart you'll realize that the front caliper clamps are wider for wider front pads and won't work in the rear. Your rear pads are actually brand new.

The next 6hrs you'll spend putting it all back together and getting it lined up and correct. Enjoy your wasted day.

http://i.postimg.cc/rs2Y61fb/Rear-brakes-apart.jpg

Step 21: Flavorful mouse droppings. When building a race car you need to manage heat, brakes, air/fuel, weight, and power. Over heating a motor and blowing a head gasket at the track is zero fun. Insert racing radiator and upgraded fans. Bonus points since the original radiator has a hole in it and it needed to be replaced anyways.

Be warned, while standing under the car on the lift while you pull the old radiator out, keep your mouth closed. This is important! Mice will have used the front lip and top of the radiator to store their winter supply of food.

http://i.postimg.cc/YSVsRKYt/Radiator-upgrade.jpg

Re: How to build a Mid-Engine Italian Race Car

Step 22: Three steps backwards. Adjust the carburetor and attempt a basic tune/engine setting. Upon start up and bringing the engine up to temp learn that the none of the dash gauges work and the fans don't kick on. Oh, and you'll pop out a freeze plug and puke 2 gallons of mostly water/sludge all over the shop floor.

Replace freeze plug, refill with water.

Complete leak down test to see if all 4 holes are good. Your leak down tester kit will be made of chinesium and won't work. During the test you'll somehow cause one of the cams to jump 3 teeth on the timing belt. Remove timing belt and walk back the cam and re-time the cams to the crank.

Retest with new leak down test, find 3 cylinders are surprisingly good (3-5% loss) and hole #4 is at 18% loss through intake valve. Good enough for Lemons. Re-run motor and find everything works 'currently'.

http://i.postimg.cc/pXNT6zWp/freeze-plug-mess.jpg

Re: How to build a Mid-Engine Italian Race Car

Step 23: Re-read the rules and get moving on the punch list.

Quick and dirty battery hold down:
http://i.postimg.cc/fR8MD9N7/Battery_box_final.jpg

Special order 'huge' freshies from the UK (Avon 185/55r13). Fab new tail lights and stance that b*tch
http://i.postimg.cc/0yk9TCL2/new_rubber_mounted.jpg
http://i.postimg.cc/ZKrRtnnj/rear_lights_and_plate.jpg
http://i.postimg.cc/9MRmxFsd/Front_stance.jpg

Re: How to build a Mid-Engine Italian Race Car

Step 24: Build a quick release steering hub adapter using an extra race wheel and adapter laying around in the shop. You'll realize that your wheel and quick release hub is about $800 and worth more than the entire car.
http://i.postimg.cc/jStjsTJT/bent-steering-wheel.jpg
http://i.postimg.cc/L8D85Wz1/steering_hub_build.jpg
http://i.postimg.cc/VNNLCFRH/steering_wheel_final.jpg

Replace engine oil and trans fluid. You'll learn that your 4 quart transmission has about 1/2 a quart of fluid in it. One more bullet for race day dodged.
http://i.postimg.cc/cC3JJ4mx/trans_gear_oil.jpg

Start wiring. Build a fuse panel that incorporates relays for fans and fuel pump, include two backup cameras and monitors for blind spot viewing during the race, include a space for iphone mount for racing lap timer app (Harry's GPS racing app), include mounts for rugged racing radio for helmet direct connect with power source, and add a spare switch and line for flux capacitor because time machine.
http://i.postimg.cc/V6p61bXZ/console-wiring.jpg
http://i.postimg.cc/tRnJk2HK/console-mockup.jpg

Re: How to build a Mid-Engine Italian Race Car

Step 25: Now the real fabrication and engineering starts. One of the biggest challenges of a car that is about the size of the AC Cobra is fitting a cage, seat, and drivers between 6'4" with a long neck and a wife driver who is 4'10". This ain't gonna be easy. Solution: Drop the floor, 8" of seat sliders on an incline, seat booster for the shorties, and an exo-cage to clear helmet requirements to the top hoop.

First, cut the rusty floor out and drop it 1.5". This requires very exact measurements so the floor isn't too low and in the event that said wifey drives over some recently evicted parts on another jalopy race car she's safe. Overkill 18g cold rolled steel, with 1/8" steel straps for seat support, all mechanically attached from the inside should be plenty. The front of the floor is angled up to zero so it's effective a ramp at the bottom instead of a lip when we run over small animals and car parts.

http://i.postimg.cc/ZRGTXzh1/Floor-hole.jpg
http://i.postimg.cc/y8HDk9tw/Seat-sliders.jpg
http://i.postimg.cc/yNfxQGxH/driver-floor-1.jpg
http://i.postimg.cc/W4rjrfZ8/Driver_floor_2.jpg
http://i.postimg.cc/5y8xVK4j/seat_mockup.jpg

Re: How to build a Mid-Engine Italian Race Car

Step 26: Buy more tools (Never miss an opportunity to buy more tools). Enter a new JD2 Model 4 electric over hydraulic mandrel bender with 180 dies. Yea baby. This thing bends tubes smooth and fast.

http://i.postimg.cc/MG7JwRn7/Model-4-JD2-bender.jpg

Welding rust is always fun. Build the cage boxes and break out the old 'fabricators glue gun', the mig welder. It's ugly but solid. Boxes are all within spec (1/8" thick cold rolled steel, +24 sq inches surface area.).

http://i.postimg.cc/zvfsTc07/Cage-box-1.jpg
http://i.postimg.cc/Dzk3R5wf/Cage-box-2.jpg

Before you get too far involved in the cage make sure you install the fire system. Being on fire sucks, so a simple two nozzle 5lbs kit should work fine. We upgraded to the better fire juice that's easier to wash out of your race suit in case we have to use it or, more likely someone trips it by mistake in the pits.

http://i.postimg.cc/cHTqgSM6/Fire-system.jpg

Re: How to build a Mid-Engine Italian Race Car

Step 27: Build the cage. DOM .120 cold rolled steel 1.5". Start with the main hoop. Wait, WTF dude. Isn't that sh*t suppose to be INSIDE the car?

http://i.postimg.cc/RZnzP29b/Cage-start-main-hoop.jpg

Overkill your cage. If you are flipping at 100mph you really don't want it to fail. Having been in some high speed wrecks in SCCA spec miata's I can tell you it sucks, but it sucks less being able to walk away. Brace the top corners of the cage, bend the door bars deep into the door pocket, tie the door bars together and run a second tie-in point to the rocker.

http://i.postimg.cc/j5R0S5fG/Cage-pre-paint.jpg

Weld PORN alert. This may not be considered safe for work viewing... Be warned:

http://i.postimg.cc/02jvSb4v/cage-weld.jpg

Re: How to build a Mid-Engine Italian Race Car

Step 28: BOOM, racecar motherf*cker!


http://i.postimg.cc/3rn7Wgn9/Nicks-for-alignment-1.jpg
http://i.postimg.cc/2ycfJDVg/Nicks-for-alignment-2.jpg
http://i.postimg.cc/Ss4qYdB1/Final-Driver-seat.jpg

Okay, there were a few small steps left out, but you get the idea. Final punch list items completed include:
- Cutting and installing the Lexan windshield
- New gauges (5), re-wire and new sender units so we know what's going on
- Replaced one broken monitor and two bad cameras due to Chinesium, and rewired so we have backup cams for rear view/blind spots
- Seat belt mounts, belt install, seat install
- Installed radio and wiring for driver communication back to pit
- Timed engine
- Rebuilt rear brake caliper that was stuck (second time)
- Decor/theme and stickers

Re: How to build a Mid-Engine Italian Race Car

Step 29: Test day. Take the 'most amazing Italian racecar ever' out to an SCCA test day before a Majors race. They weren't too pleased, but the track manager loved it and let it slide for the day.


http://i.postimg.cc/brkNP8S3/Practice-day-1.jpg
http://i.postimg.cc/FKCKgTQg/Practice-day-2.jpg
http://i.postimg.cc/W413kQx1/Practice-day-3.jpg

First session out I managed to get one glorious lap in before it promptly puked its guts out all over the track. Another freeze plug decided it wanted a better view of the race from the side of the track. By the time I got back to the pits the temp was pegged at 280.

I learned a lot though and had a list of about a dozen things to solve for.
http://i.postimg.cc/Nj4FLgJn/freeze-plug-mess-part-2.jpg

Re: How to build a Mid-Engine Italian Race Car

Step 30: Back in the shop post test day. Do a full top end rebuild on the engine. The #4 cylinder was weak before, but after the practice day it was 20%. The head gasket may have had two small areas where it was leaking pressure into the water jackets. That, or the fact that half the radiator was full of air and turned into steam that caused the plugs to blow out. I have since found the upper bleeder screw for the radiator.

While the head was off I checked the deck for warping and head for warping. Zero issues, but I still gave the aluminum head deck a light sand. The two bad valves were pulled out and lapped, and then everything meticulously put back together per the manual.

It fired right up and ran better than before. Other items solved for:
- Front ball joint replaced
- Breaks re-bleed since they were too soft. Used a new power bleeder and found a few more air bubbles near the M/C
- Replaced the Alternator that was fried
- installed a wink mirror
- Built a glare cover for the monitors
- Adjusted the tach from 8cyl to 4cyl.
- Hard wired the gopro

Pending one more test next week at a local industrial park it should be ready for the race next week. Next goal: Teach my wife (one of our co-drivers) how to drive a manual transmission between now and next week.

http://i.postimg.cc/9QVzW4pT/Blown-head-gasket.jpg
http://i.postimg.cc/4drNjnyY/Engine-no-head.jpg
http://i.postimg.cc/Fz5NDqCc/Head-removed.jpg
http://i.postimg.cc/05wNDGXD/Head-valve-job.jpg
http://i.postimg.cc/SsXxZcS0/Lancia-rebuild-complete.jpg

17 (edited by OutaTime 2020-10-04 05:51 PM)

Re: How to build a Mid-Engine Italian Race Car

Race Day!!!

Well, everyone loved it. Had a great time.

http://i.postimg.cc/Qx8mKpSQ/Thompson-2020-race-tech.jpg

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zTWaW9HB … e=youtu.be

http://i.postimg.cc/dt5B2LSz/Thompson-broken-2020.jpg

Managed to turn 6 laps in total, only 2 under green. Finished 80th out of 79 that started, no idea how that happened, lol. Solid showing for a Lancia.

Got 3 drivers strapped in and on the track. Order of operations:

1. Engine died on lap 2 (maybe lap 1?). Towed back in.
2. Blowing oil somewhere out the motor and missing a lot of engine water. No ignition spark. Figured out the spark was a bad coil, not working. Replaced with spare. Once running the oil was blowing out of the dip stick tube causing low oil pressure and a mess. Pulled it out, wrapped the broken seal with electrical tap and RTV. Solved the leak/pressure issue. Water was leaking out of the cracked/broken plastic overflow tank. Apparently my as seen on TV rubber spray doesn't like hot temps. Duck tape solution and re-filled water.
3. Back out on track with Driver #2 (wife, who's just learned to drive a manual this week). Made it 2 laps before I called her in for a ton of water blowing out the back. She parked it in the grass in turn 1.
4. Trip to the parts store by crew for any overflow tank they had. In the interim I found an extension socket and bolt to plug the holes. We refilled the water lines, radiator, then blocked off the coolant overflow tank. Driver #3 into the car.
5. Battery wouldn't start the car. Spare battery wouldn't fit in the hold down. Jumped the car with my truck to get it running.
6. Driver #3 made it about 200 yards onto the track before it died. Was blowing water about 8 feet out of the passenger side exhaust.

Noon, called it a day and packed it up. Sunday: spent the afternoon on the boat with the kids water skiing.

Lemon's people loved it and want me to do a motor swap and come back next year. I'm not sure I have the time/want to do it yet. Either sell it, cut it up for scrap or jump two feet in and motor swap it (Saab B234R?) for 2021 season.

Oh, and the aftermarket brakes were sh*t. I likely have air in the lines still or a bad Master Cylinder.

For those of you wanting to know about $. Final all in, non exempt cost: $330.75. Exempt items (Safety, etc.): $8,374.99 including race registration fees. I wasn't sure if I needed it, but I built a builder and kept every receipt.

Re: How to build a Mid-Engine Italian Race Car

I think we had a similar "Welcome to Lemons" with the TR7.  At one point we had a free Scorpion in similar condition.  I would guess it was somewhere around your Step 8 that we stepped back, looked around seeing we had other more promising heaps around and passed it off to the team in NorCal that runs it now.  Seems like they had a bunch of cooling problems as well that I suspect were mostly down to inability to get the system entirely bled.  Also seem to recall they had the cooling pipes from the radiator swapped.  Vaguely recall they go in the less intuitive order.  Anyway sir, I salute you for doing Lemons the right way even if it didn't end up the way you wished it to.  I hope you can fix it and get it back out.

1990 RX7 "Mazdarita"  1964 Sunbeam Imp (IOE 2013 Sears Pointless) 2002 Jaguar x-type (Winner C-Class 2021 Sears Pointless)
Gone bye-bye
1994 Jaguar XJ12 (Winner C-Class 2013 Sears Pointless)  1980 Rover SD1 (I Got Screwed 2014 Return of Lemonites)

Re: How to build a Mid-Engine Italian Race Car

Kool write up, as well as awesome build and theme.

At the green I was behind you with only one car in between us.  I was shocked that your car did not take off leaving fire where the tires were, and I was sad when I came back around to see the car parked.

Please get it fixed so we can see it again.

Bill

2020 I.O.E. CT #36 The Rootes Of All Evil,1958 Sunbeam Rapier Convertible (YES 1958!!) & 2019 Judges Choice NJMP
2016 Thompson Speedway #36 Sabrina Duncan's Revenge, IOE Trophy, 5th Place 'C' Class 1977 Ford Pinto
2009 Stafford Motor Speedway #16 Team Teflon, 11th Place (overall) 1997 Saturn SL2

Re: How to build a Mid-Engine Italian Race Car

I agree wholeheartedly.
We need more of this type of car in Lemons
As One of the Judges this weekend I was all about seeing that old ride do well.
It was between You and Bill in the Rapier for the IOE (congrats to Bill!)
My conversation opened a lot of talk about engines that seem Lemons proof......Mazda 2.3 is your game.
Your fabrication skills should get that Lancia up by next years races.
Get Wrenching my friend!
Manny

21 (edited by chaase 2020-08-11 01:02 PM)

Re: How to build a Mid-Engine Italian Race Car

Mkotzias wrote:

I agree wholeheartedly.
We need more of this type of car in Lemons
As One of the Judges this weekend I was all about seeing that old ride do well.
It was between You and Bill in the Rapier for the IOE (congrats to Bill!)
My conversation opened a lot of talk about engines that seem Lemons proof......Mazda 2.3 is your game.
Your fabrication skills should get that Lancia up by next years races.
Get Wrenching my friend!
Manny

This race looked to be an epic battle for IOE between the Lancia and the Rapier. The Aspen could've been a dark horse as well but the Rapier ran all weekend and walked away with the victory. Please get it running and bring it back for us all to enjoy.

1992 Saturn SL2 (retired) - Elmo's Revenge -  Class B winner, Heroic Fix winner x2
1969 Rover P6B 3500S(sold) - Super G-Rover - I.O.E Winner, Class C Winner
1996 Saturn SW2 - Elmo's Revenge (reborn!), Saturn SL1  Dazzleshipm Class C winner
1974 AMC Javelin - Oscar's Trash heap - IOE,”Organizer's Choice" and "I got Screwed" award winner

Re: How to build a Mid-Engine Italian Race Car

(Some stuff about a lap timer and rolling over at 100 mph, let alone the fact that you intentionally prepared a Lancia)

I see you're an optimist.

Great build, great thread, love this thing, can't wait to see it again.

Eric Rood
Everything Bagel, 24 Hours of Lemons
eric@24hoursoflemons.com

Re: How to build a Mid-Engine Italian Race Car

That ~$8500 you spent to show up to your first race averages out to only $4250 per event once you enter the second one... just sayin'.

Nice first post. Rookie of the year material right here. Welcome to Lemons!

"THE WONDERMENT CONSORTIUM"
Everything dies baby that's a fact,
But maybe everything that dies someday comes back?

Re: How to build a Mid-Engine Italian Race Car

First off SUPER IMPRESSED with your fab skills. As  tool & dye guy who has been around race cars my whole life you've got serious skills. If the Lancia has an engine compartment the same size as an X1/9 then an Alfa 164 drive train will fit right in and should be no problem for you. Please don't give up.

Wes Conklin
Team California Mille
2007 Eyetalian Class Champions
20+ races and still going strong, Finally won one. Pacific Northworst Winner 2012.

25 (edited by chaase 2020-08-12 03:37 PM)

Re: How to build a Mid-Engine Italian Race Car

I am an idiot.. ignore me

1992 Saturn SL2 (retired) - Elmo's Revenge -  Class B winner, Heroic Fix winner x2
1969 Rover P6B 3500S(sold) - Super G-Rover - I.O.E Winner, Class C Winner
1996 Saturn SW2 - Elmo's Revenge (reborn!), Saturn SL1  Dazzleshipm Class C winner
1974 AMC Javelin - Oscar's Trash heap - IOE,”Organizer's Choice" and "I got Screwed" award winner