Topic: Camber?

Just curious as to what front camber people are running. At Nola we started off -2.5deg and was initially worried that might be too much but didn't matter in the end as we snapped an upper control arm and had to put the stocks back on...which resulted in front tires that looked like this at the checkered...https://i.imgur.com/Egqr2Pl.jpg

LS-10 Racing '98 Chevy S-10
2022 Road Atlanta: LET'S F**KING DO THIS!!!, 2021 MSR: 19/101 (5/36 B-class) overheated transmission
2021 NOLA: 21/65 (6/25 B-class) snapped upper control arm, 2020 MSR: 73/103 (27/36 B-class) blown transmission

Re: Camber?

negative camber varies by car but you were in the range that seems to work for us.

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Re: Camber?

That looks like' toe in' wear to me. (outer edge)
-2.5 would have worn the inner edge of the tire unless you have an extremely aggressive driver.
But a broken A arm might be more the problem than your alignment.
Did you reset Toe or camber after the repair?
Hope this helps
Manny

Re: Camber?

cheseroo wrote:

negative camber varies by car but you were in the range that seems to work for us.

Yea, we were just curious if we were in the noise. We figured we'd have to run probably a little more than most bc we're pretty nose heavy...and just heavy in general lol

LS-10 Racing '98 Chevy S-10
2022 Road Atlanta: LET'S F**KING DO THIS!!!, 2021 MSR: 19/101 (5/36 B-class) overheated transmission
2021 NOLA: 21/65 (6/25 B-class) snapped upper control arm, 2020 MSR: 73/103 (27/36 B-class) blown transmission

Re: Camber?

Mkotzias wrote:

That looks like' toe in' wear to me. (outer edge)
-2.5 would have worn the inner edge of the tire unless you have an extremely aggressive driver.
But a broken A arm might be more the problem than your alignment.
Did you reset Toe or camber after the repair?
Hope this helps
Manny

Wear looked pretty good thru Friday's testing (if maybe a tad more than I was expecting on the inside). But yea after the upper snapped, we maxed out the available shims we had and eyeballed the toe (actually the team member that does our alignments on a rack is the one that eyeballed it to a have as much faith there as I can) we were still probably only pushing at most +0.5 if not dead zero. So it was just the fact that we had no camber afterwards that killed the tires...and we (mainly I) was probably pushing harder than I needed to.

We're beefing up the uppers so we don't have this happen again...just curious what others are running

LS-10 Racing '98 Chevy S-10
2022 Road Atlanta: LET'S F**KING DO THIS!!!, 2021 MSR: 19/101 (5/36 B-class) overheated transmission
2021 NOLA: 21/65 (6/25 B-class) snapped upper control arm, 2020 MSR: 73/103 (27/36 B-class) blown transmission

Re: Camber?

I must say some tracks are much more destructive to tires also.
New Hampshire MS is particularly rough on the right front.
3 different cars with three different alignments and we managed to not finish the race with a right front tire.
My favorite line from a teammate was....."You can see the Air inside!" as we scrambled to replace our destroyed rubber.

Manny

Re: Camber?

looks like a sawblade, is this a GM product? Have you tried the larger Mopar C-body style ball joints? They drop about 1" and you can get more adjustment in the camber.

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Re: Camber?

Front -2.5-4.5 depending on track sometimes left right is not even
rear -3.5-5.5
This is on a 250hp FWD car

100hp fwd car runs about a degree less than the fast one

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Re: Camber?

NOPANTSDOUGIE wrote:

Front -2.5-4.5 depending on track sometimes left right is not even
rear -3.5-5.5
This is on a 250hp FWD car

100hp fwd car runs about a degree less than the fast one

Thanks!

LS-10 Racing '98 Chevy S-10
2022 Road Atlanta: LET'S F**KING DO THIS!!!, 2021 MSR: 19/101 (5/36 B-class) overheated transmission
2021 NOLA: 21/65 (6/25 B-class) snapped upper control arm, 2020 MSR: 73/103 (27/36 B-class) blown transmission

Re: Camber?

Mr.Yuck wrote:

looks like a sawblade, is this a GM product? Have you tried the larger Mopar C-body style ball joints? They drop about 1" and you can get more adjustment in the camber.

We're running a '98 S-10 with a 4.8 LS swap...hence the weight lol. We're actually going to drop it another inch (2 to 3") and possibly grab some better shocks before our next race. Once we get the adjustable arms back on we can get back to fine tuning the camber

LS-10 Racing '98 Chevy S-10
2022 Road Atlanta: LET'S F**KING DO THIS!!!, 2021 MSR: 19/101 (5/36 B-class) overheated transmission
2021 NOLA: 21/65 (6/25 B-class) snapped upper control arm, 2020 MSR: 73/103 (27/36 B-class) blown transmission

Re: Camber?

Just remember, too much camber reduces contact patch on the straights, resulting in reduced braking/ early lock-up, and increased wheel spin on FWD cars.  IIRC one of the car mags did some testing on a Mini Cooper or similar and found ~2 degrees negative about optimal for lap times.

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Re: Camber?

Your static alignment camber is one thing, but your roll center is just as important and often overlooked.  If your roll center is too low, you can have all the negative camber you want but as soon as you load the tires it can go positive very quickly.  More so with poor roll stiffness. The fun part of fixing the roll center is fixing the bump steer after.  YMMV.....

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Re: Camber?

On a McPherson strut, max the crap out of your CASTER. 4+ positive, up to 6 on fwd and up to 10 on rwd seems to be the ballpark recommendation on the interwebs. Then reduce camber back to -1.5 degrees, try it, and fine-tune based on tire inside/outside temps. Enjoy even tire wear, short stopping distances, and significantly reduced mid-corner wheelspin on fwd cars.

K Car Stalker

Re: Camber?

Invest in an actual tire pyrometer and learn how it should be used.
They cost around $140 and will pay for itself with one set of tires,
once you get everything adjusted correctly.

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