26

Re: K-It-Forward (v.ECR)

Fantastic write up.  Can't wait for your report tomorrow.

b

This space for rent.

27 (edited by psychoboy 2013-05-01 08:19 AM)

Re: K-It-Forward (v.ECR)

Day 3:

Day 2 ended with a test drive that suggested fuel issues. Through email, facebook, and carrier pigeon, Team Tetanus and Team Anton pointed me at the MAF.  A little internet research of my own turned up www.minimopar.net and www.chryslerkcar.com, two sites that could only exist in the age of internet hipsterism. I printed off all the check engine Power Loss light information I could and after work I dug into the car.

I turned the car on at the master switch and cycled the key a couple times to get the CEL codes out of the Power Loss light. Several flashing lights later, I had codes 11 and 12, so I looked them up. Did you know that killing the main power to the ECU (say, to clear codes) will throw codes? Now you do. Not only does ECU power loss create a code, the only way to clear THOSE codes is to cycle the key 15 times. I think I’m developing carpal tunnel. Once I cleared those codes, I started the car to create some new codes. Sure enough, the Power Loss light confirmed that the ECU and I agreed, something was wrong. This time it was codes 13 and 31, MAP sensor and purge solenoid. The purge was easy to diagnose, it’s not there anymore. There is an empty socket and a bare pipe where the purge solenoid used to be. According to the Internets, this is a non-fatal code, it won’t even pop the PL light, so I’ll continue ignoring it. The MAP code was for a bad reading not a dead sensor (code 14), so I started trying to solve that issue.

Chrysler uses a fairly standard setup on this car for early fuel injection. The throttle body has two injectors, and the ECU determines how much fuel to flow based on several sensors. One of those sensors is a type of MAP sensor which basically tells the ECU how much air is getting into the motor; again, not very interesting. The interesting part, to me at least, is where this sensor lives. Some put it directly on the intake manifold or the throttle body, others hang it on the firewall and run a short vacuum line to the manifold, Chrysler puts it in the ECU...in the passenger side kick panel and runs a 6 foot long vacuum hose to it…because 6 feet of copper wire is more fragile than 6 feet of rubber hose.

At some point is this car's history, that hose got broken off its bung and left for dead in the passenger side of the engine compartment. The MAP reads no vacuum, the ECU thinks we are WOT, and the car runs pig rich. To that end, it might be just as well that the second injector was disconnected; pig rich is only piglet rich when half the injectors are out of the loop.

After getting those issues resolved, I took the car on a test drive to get some more bits and pieces. I didn’t film it, mostly because I was too busy watching for cops, and trying to make sure the car was always in a pushable location. After picking up new spark plugs, a chrome turn down for the exhaust, and a blue panoramic mirror, I went to America’s Drive In for  44 ounces of high fructose corn syrup, ‘cherry’ flavoring, and FDA approved coloring. Why? ‘cuz this is ‘murrica, not New York.

The drive back to the shop was pretty uneventful, gladly.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V1IiPszUux4

Back at the ranch I changed spark plugs, installed my mirror and blinging exhaust tip, and then rolled to the nearest car wash to de-slime the car a little before I set fire to the underside. This car loses a lot of oil, and I’m not sure anything I’ve done will stop that.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8542/8697531229_f8d00aee1c_c.jpg

It’s not just shiny, it’s also hot and sharp!


After hosing down the inside and outside, I backed the car in to get after the rear suspension.

First on the agenda was fixing the chain limits. A few minutes with a plasma cutter got the chains loose, and a few more minutes with a pair of 15mm (srsly?) sockets got the shocks out. The trailing axle design in this car is pretty common, actually, and the shocks are the stock limiters. The chains pulled the static ride height down about a half an inch, and stopped droop a good five inches short of the shocks’ limits. I pried the springs out and hammered the torn right rear spring perch back into something closer to stock. I rewelded the perch, and hacked 1 and 3/4 wraps off the bottom of the springs. It sounds like a lot, but the last half wrap was a dead zone, so it’s not really too bad. I’ll be installing 6 inch shorter shocks to limit droop and to keep the rear from wanting to chuck its springs. Due to space constraints, I couldn’t get a good before and after view of the drop, but it now sits empty about where it was sitting with a trunk full of motor. I’ll fashion some spring spacers to jack the car up when it’s hauling its spare drivetrain.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8535/8695759970_f67cca88fa_c.jpg
The perch as I found it.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8411/8697530947_5a4418c73c_c.jpg
Torn spring perch. It’s just not willing to handle that stress. ECR is full of left hand turns, so I’m sure the other side would look just like this by Sunday.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8407/8698652970_ca11677ef1_c.jpg
Rewelded spring perch.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8116/8698652642_8ca8fc10bb_c.jpg
Stock rear spring

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8549/8698652390_91e37dd0b2_c.jpg
Custom rear spring. I actually trimmed another ¼ wrap off after I test fit this.

And a walk around for the end of the day:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JPf9QyBDQDM


an aside:
If you want to discuss the merits and dangers of cutting coil springs, find me at ECR when I’m not busy. Many of my friends can tell you that I’ll be happy to entertain that discussion until one of us dies of exhaustion (….this also holds true for most political and tax theory discussions). Please make sure you are coming from a position of actual practice, not just classroom based theory. I can invalidate conventional coil spring theory in about three minutes using nothing more than a chunk of copper wire and a beer can.

Team OK-Speed
Regularly losing in Class A
Soon to start losing in Class C

Re: K-It-Forward (v.ECR)

Glad to see the K getting so much love. Finally someone who knows what they're doing. Sorry we couldn't be more help.

Newest member - White Trash Racing
Owner of the Traveling Hat

29 (edited by psychoboy 2013-05-01 08:18 AM)

Re: K-It-Forward (v.ECR)

who says i know what i'm doing?

if the car i got from you is the car that NMF and Sputnik raced (meaning that both races ran on no MAP, no O2, and only one injector) i have absolutely no idea how you managed to tolerate it for a weekend. It's not fast now, it's just barely livable. i can't even conceive of the utter doggedness of this car for 14 hours unless those tracks let you keep the revs up for the entire lap. ECR does not. just about the time this car would get running well, it would be time to shut it down and start the chugging all over again.

you must have strong teams if they could survive this for a whole damned weekend....if i drove it for an hour in that condition, i'd throw the key at the next driver and drink beer for the rest of the weekend (and i don't drink).


i guess the Lemons stuff will have to make the real call on this season's improvements. NSF's Katie can also provide historical data, since i think she drove it at ECR last december.  For all I know, it's almost as good now as it was then.

Team OK-Speed
Regularly losing in Class A
Soon to start losing in Class C

Re: K-It-Forward (v.ECR)

It's running pretty much the way we got it, maybe a little worse. MAF, O2, what's that?

Newest member - White Trash Racing
Owner of the Traveling Hat

Re: K-It-Forward (v.ECR)

psychoboy wrote:

i'd throw the key at the next driver and drink beer for the rest of the weekend (and i don't drink).

Friday evening at Gingerman, I gave cabinboy a bottle of my favorite spiced rum.  I wanted to give him something that he'd need to help him through the weekend and that is what I felt would be best.

"He attacked everything in life with a mixture of extraordinary genius and naive incompetence, and it was often difficult to tell which was which."   -Adams, Douglas.   The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy.

14x loser @ Gingerman, Autobahn, Summit Point, New Jersey, Road 'Merica, and Barber

Re: K-It-Forward (v.ECR)

yukadas wrote:
psychoboy wrote:

i'd throw the key at the next driver and drink beer for the rest of the weekend (and i don't drink).

Friday evening at Gingerman, I gave cabinboy a bottle of my favorite spiced rum.  I wanted to give him something that he'd need to help him through the weekend and that is what I felt would be best.

And I'm enjoying it very much. Thank you.

Newest member - White Trash Racing
Owner of the Traveling Hat

Re: K-It-Forward (v.ECR)

psychoboy wrote:

an aside:
If you want to discuss the merits and dangers of cutting coil springs, find me at ECR when I’m not busy. Many of my friends can tell you that I’ll be happy to entertain that discussion until one of us dies of exhaustion (….this also holds true for most political and tax theory discussions). Please make sure you are coming from a position of actual practice, not just classroom based theory. I can invalidate conventional coil spring theory in about three minutes using nothing more than a chunk of copper wire and a beer can.

I am so down for this.    I'm going to make up my facts as I go and we're drinking your beer so you can get some cans.

Dangerous Banned Technology (NOLA 09), Judges Choice (Houston 2010), Organizers Choice (NOLA 2010), Most Heroic Fix (Dallas 2010), $100 from Jay's Pocket (Dallas 2010), Dangerous Homemade Technology (NOLA 2010), Ununhexium Legends of Lemons Status,  Index of Effluency (Dallas 2011), Most Heroic Fix - (Houston 2011), Index of Effluency (TWS - 2012), Organizers Choice (Dallas 2013)

Re: K-It-Forward (v.ECR)

yukadas wrote:
psychoboy wrote:

A new gasket and some RTV in the corners and I’ve added at least a quart and a half of capacity. The pickup is still where the crushed pan left it, but I’m thinking it’s been like that for a while now, so I’m leaving it.

That may have increase the overall capacity of the system, but unless you bend that pickup back down to the bottom, you might be worse off.

It's like having a straw that can only get halfway to the bottom of your beer can.  That beer is down there, but you can't drink it.  If it starts sloshing, you have a really good chance of sucking up the foam.

Wha???  You don't drink beer with a straw?

Exactly. The pickup needs to be on the bottom of the pan to suck up what little oil is in the pan. If there is only 1 quart in the pan, and 4 quarts up in the engine, the pump will pump oil/air mix and you'll kill the bearings in a very short time.

Go get a new pick up or get the current one to be within 1/8" of the bottom of the pan.

Dudes Ex Machina: https://www.facebook.com/dudesexmachina

?Everyone who has ever built anywhere a 'new heaven' first found the power thereto in his own hell- Frederick Nietzsche

Re: K-It-Forward (v.ECR)

jiggermyster wrote:

Too many experts here. I'm taking my silly ass opinions and going home...

No keep arguing, but do your math first. Assume some simple cases of loading.

there are 4 straps total, two holding left , two holding right, two holding forward and two holding backward

So a side hit would load 2 straps, with 2 gs of 3500 car, But 50% de-rating for the 45 degree angled straps. So thats 2  x 1/2 x 3500 x 2(de-rating) = 7000, and those straps are rate for 10K, so the net margin of safety 1.42. Same for the other 3 cases.

yes a straight pull, the 100% case would be stronger for the Front and rear hit scenarios, but MUCH weaker for a side hit scenario when the effective angle would by 90 degrees and the de-rating factor infinite. So the X straps is an overall better solution for holding a load from forces in all directions. But one should take into account the geometry effects on the load capability of their tie downs.

Dudes Ex Machina: https://www.facebook.com/dudesexmachina

?Everyone who has ever built anywhere a 'new heaven' first found the power thereto in his own hell- Frederick Nietzsche

Re: K-It-Forward (v.ECR)

It's going to be funny to see how much blood ,sweat,beers and tears .
I spend 2 hours welding the cage and cut those holes in  the roof . It was 30 degrees at ECR  and the only heat was from the welder .

Enjoy the K it's fun to drive .
I'm going to meet up with Detroit Bettys car again for the RIdge

Chris

Pit Crew Revenge Racing   Rolling chicanelimo,95Lamdspeeder,Gimp Pimp Cadi,300zx Car show kaboom!! 90 Wagovan, mazda v8 Lemons LOGO TATTOO!  Aces 84 Cadi Eldo Briattz I O E WINNER
Class C win with LemonOdy Cannonball Run Whambulance !EX K Captain
Lemons Trophy Truck ShaGuar Baby!

Re: K-It-Forward (v.ECR)

mackwagon wrote:

No keep arguing, but do your math first. Assume some simple cases of loading. ...

The straps are plenty strong enough to holding the car on the trailer.
Crossing them contributes very little toward that goal, while adding points of failure.
It doubles the load on the rigging and removes the redundancy of two straps front and rear.
If only one strap comes loose, the load will be free to move around and remaining three will loosen up.
Since the hooks are just dangled over the edge of the trailer it wouldn't take long for the rest to come loose.
Straight fore and aft, or a simple burst pattern reduces the failure points while accomplishing the same goal.
But what do I know... I never went to school, and don't lift or load for a living.

Re: K-It-Forward (v.ECR)

So, I'm kinda dumb... how should I rig my car on a trailer?

Speedycop/NSF Racing /Pinewood Dirtbags
'10 Summit, CMP3, Autobahn, '11 CMP1, NJMP, CMP2, Summit, G'man, Stafford, Charlotte, Autobahn, ECR '12 CMP1, NJMP, G'man, NHMS1, Summit, CMP2, NHMS2, ECR, '13 CMP1, ECR, Summit, NJMP, THill, CMP2, MSR, NHMS, Sears '14 Barber, Sears1, ECR, CMP1, NJMP1, BWillow, Sebring, CMP2, THill, Sears2, '15 Sears1, Barber, Ridge, THill, '16 Sears1

39 (edited by psychoboy 2013-05-02 05:50 AM)

Re: K-It-Forward (v.ECR)

jiggermyster wrote:
mackwagon wrote:

No keep arguing, but do your math first. Assume some simple cases of loading. ...

The straps are plenty strong enough to holding the car on the trailer.
Crossing them contributes very little toward that goal, while adding points of failure.
It doubles the load on the rigging and removes the redundancy of two straps front and rear.
If only one strap comes loose, the load will be free to move around and remaining three will loosen up.
Since the hooks are just dangled over the edge of the trailer it wouldn't take long for the rest to come loose.
Straight fore and aft, or a simple burst pattern reduces the failure points while accomplishing the same goal.
But what do I know... I never went to school, and don't lift or load for a living.


tell you what, you come to ECR and load that car on whatever trailer is taking it home.

meanwhile, when I'm in a parking lot in the middle of Missouri, i'll use what i have on hand to get the job done. that rig managed to make it several hundred miles for several hours without failing. for a car that has no tow hooks, and no decent places to attach to, and for a trailer that isn't optimized for carrying cars, it seems to have worked out reasonably well. the car didn't roll back and forth, the car didn't walk side to side. the car didn't sprout wings and assume a low orbit. while not the best solution, its a workable solution....and in this venue, that seems almost like overkill...have you seen the cars we race?

also, as noted above, strapping the car longitudinally would help keep the car from going forwards or backwards on the trailer in the event of a collision. in my rig, i sit over 20 feet away from the car. i sit less than five feet from the front bumper of my van. any front end accident that could result in  breaking even the crossed straps and getting that car into my back will have already pushed most of the front of the van into my lap long before the car got to me. if i'm in a accident that causes those straps to fail (or the attachment points to fail) I'm well beyond screwed, regardless of the car.

finally, putting the straps like that allows me to see the ratchets hanging in space in my mirrors. i can watch those ratchets and see if they have loosened up while driving. this allows me to fix problems before they become disasters.

does it work every time? nothing does.
did it work this time? yes
will i do it again? probably.


also... the k-car doesn't even begin to plumb the depths of my terrible trailer technology.
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2115/2049293038_a89abb1a4d_z.jpg?zz=1
Bolder Colorado to Oklahoma City.

if Jalopnik ran a QOTD for the top ten automotive transport solutions that shouldn't work but did, my fickr account would probably get overrun.

Team OK-Speed
Regularly losing in Class A
Soon to start losing in Class C

40 (edited by psychoboy 2013-05-02 06:29 AM)

Re: K-It-Forward (v.ECR)

DC Doug wrote:

So, I'm kinda dumb... how should I rig my car on a trailer?


2 pieces of 3/8" log chain from each corner's tow hook to dedicated trailer hooks exactly parallel and perpendicular to those tow hooks. boomers of some sort that cannot loosen under load nor be pulled too tight. this assumes your car has tow hooks at all four corners, and that your trailer's hooks are in the optimal spots. if neither of these conditions exist, you'll need to create them.

alternatively, you can weld the car to the trailer.

fabtoys wrote:

It's going to be funny to see how much blood ,sweat,beers and tears .
I spend 2 hours welding the cage and cut those holes in  the roof . It was 30 degrees at ECR  and the only heat was from the welder .

Enjoy the K it's fun to drive .
I'm going to meet up with Detroit Bettys car again for the RIdge

Chris

i welded up those holes last night. i couldn't hear the radio over the wind noise, and it was supposed to rain today on my drive into work.

Team OK-Speed
Regularly losing in Class A
Soon to start losing in Class C

Re: K-It-Forward (v.ECR)

psychoboy wrote:

alternatively, you can weld the car to the trailer.

You might be on to a new theme.  Kind of a cross between Speedycop's pop up trailer and Judge Phil's suggestion of a car in a crusher.

Tow it to the track, unhook from tow vehicle, go race.

"He attacked everything in life with a mixture of extraordinary genius and naive incompetence, and it was often difficult to tell which was which."   -Adams, Douglas.   The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy.

14x loser @ Gingerman, Autobahn, Summit Point, New Jersey, Road 'Merica, and Barber

42

Re: K-It-Forward (v.ECR)

You could always put your wife in the race car and make her keep her foot on the brake. That would help things right along, wouldn't it?

This space for rent.

43 (edited by psychoboy 2013-05-02 08:44 AM)

Re: K-It-Forward (v.ECR)

Day 4:

With the engine issues sorted, the rear suspension un-broked, brake plans made for friday, and time running out, I decided to do what I do best (and honestly, that's probably a bigger testament to how many things I suck at doing).

I popped into my local independent parts house and demanded to see the Monroe book I knew they had stashed somewhere behind the counter. With a wary look, the counter jockey dug it out, dusted it off and flipped to the section I wanted.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8405/8701195250_f62555af29_c.jpg

While you can theoretically do this online, there is a certain feeling to touching the pages.

I looked up the original shock fitment for the car, and determined what ends they had. I then scanned the following pages to find shocks with the same ends (10mm x 1 5/8") and the extended length I wanted. When that turned up nothing, I dug for 7/16" x 1 5/8" shocks. Still finding nothing workable, I budged up to 12mm x 1 5.8". Jackpot! Oversized ends can be bushed if neccessary and the shocks being six inches too short will keep the newly hacked springs from trying to escape. I ordered the sensa-trac version, convinced that the gas-matic would be too damned stiff. Counter guy got them coming and after work I picked them up.

I bounced the rear end a couple last times, just for fun, then I installed the shocks and went for a test drive. The car actually feels planted and finds the limits of the travel with the progressiveness only found in rubber saturated in oil.

I rolled back into the shop and measured for level, expecting to be tail down. As it was, it came out just barely under flat, so I attacked the front end.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8272/8700071533_34288efb54_c.jpg

Ronman's struts are newish, no reason to fool with them.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8254/8701194076_109b9f3585_c.jpg

The springs, however, are old...and there's lots of reasons to fool with them.

I only wanted a little drop in the front, so I only hacked off 1/4 of a wrap with my plasma cutter. If I were keeping the car, I'd have gone further, but that's because I'm an idiot. I reassembled the front suspension and declared the ride height "acceptable".

Now, we all know that the most important feature of any race car is its stance. It doesn't matter how great a car runs, drives, or handles if it doesn't look good doing it. In today's world, Stance is king, and stance means camber.

I'm used to building racy Hondas and Miatas with upper control arms. The only Dodge I've ever owned is my Sprinter, and the only things Dodge on it are the badges. McPherson struts are not foreign to me, they just aren't my normal cup of tea. However, building minitrucks, lowriders, frame draggers and other wildly adjustable suspensions IS my background, and in that world camber is of utmost importance.

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3423/3211012153_cef8833e2f_z.jpg
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2413/2314475273_2555c55d69_z.jpg
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3532/3195601882_1b8ec78817_z.jpg
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2364/1986816735_d1f82a54e7_z.jpg

You can't do things like this if you don't know where the wheels are going to be when you get there.


So I took this:
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8559/8701192732_f9cca19d62_c.jpg

Drew this:
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8551/8700068267_7926fb4237_c.jpg

Cut this:
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8253/8701190494_588fbdf61c_c.jpg

And made this:
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8133/8700066841_5e0984190e_c.jpg

Which measured to be this:
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8114/8701187790_47ece43b00_c.jpg

There is some adjustment in the knuckle to strut interface that I've not totally exploited, but I'll play with that while it's on the alignment rack today.

Expecting global warming to attack overnight and possibly dump a couple inches of oppressive sunlight and heat today, I welded up the holes in the roof that were made in last December's ECR race (and I wanted to finish off the bottle of welding gas before I exchanged it for the weekend).

Buttoned up, I drove home. I maintained normal highway speeds, the car felt at least as stable and planted as my normal daily driver (04 Accord) if not also slower, a lot louder and less comfortable. I drove it to work this morning and it is currently embarrassing my fellow employees' cars.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8279/8701182271_131b1a7b1d_c.jpg


Thus far, I'm about 20 hours and $200 into this car (excluding transport time and fuel). The alignment  will add another hour or so and the tire swap will use the tires our oft-broken Spec Pinata didn't finish using at the 24HoECR lat year. 



It's the closest thing to a momentum car as I know how to build in the 4 work days I had (taking into account that I work ten hours days in my real life). It'll probably want to rotate, since I didn't have the time to build camber into the rear axle. It will either be great, or it will be terrible. In either event, there's a month to fix it before the High Plains race.

Team OK-Speed
Regularly losing in Class A
Soon to start losing in Class C

Re: K-It-Forward (v.ECR)

You've put a lot of work into that car. Hope you can claim a class victory this weekend.

Newest member - White Trash Racing
Owner of the Traveling Hat

Re: K-It-Forward (v.ECR)

psychoboy wrote:

There is some adjustment in the knuckle to strut interface that I've not totally exploited, but I'll play with that while it's on the alignment rack today.

Where I had them last should already be the max - if you put them back together the way they were, you'll have maximum possible negative camber.

Is the best shock length the one where your coils are barely compressed at the greatest extension, or is there some other "golden rule"?

Now I want to build a K-wagon of my own. Other than persistent stalling, it was the best n00b car we've ever raced.

K Car Stalker

Re: K-It-Forward (v.ECR)

firegremlin wrote:

Now I want to build a K-wagon of my own. Other than persistent stalling, it was the best n00b car we've ever raced.

http://www.oldcarbrochures.com/static/NA/Chrysler_and_Imperial/1983_Chrysler/1983_Chrysler_E_Class_Brochure/1983%20Chrysler%20E%20Class-01.jpg

I think you need to race an E-Class. Same chassis as the Reliant wagon, but more Ricardo Montalban.

47

Re: K-It-Forward (v.ECR)

anything that has class in the title has to be good.

Racing 4 Nickels - 1989 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera
2011 SHOWROOM-SCHLOCK SHOOTOUT  IOE Winner
2012 The Chubba Cheddar Enduro Class C winner
Facebook Page

48 (edited by psychoboy 2013-05-02 11:36 AM)

Re: K-It-Forward (v.ECR)

firegremlin wrote:
psychoboy wrote:

There is some adjustment in the knuckle to strut interface that I've not totally exploited, but I'll play with that while it's on the alignment rack today.

Where I had them last should already be the max - if you put them back together the way they were, you'll have maximum possible negative camber.

Is the best shock length the one where your coils are barely compressed at the greatest extension, or is there some other "golden rule"?

Now I want to build a K-wagon of my own. Other than persistent stalling, it was the best n00b car we've ever raced.

I had to disassemble the knuckle joint to do the spring cut but i did put them back together the way you probably had them. there is some room to move beyond the stock configuration if you absolutely need to, but i'll see if i have to tonite. i think the slots up top will get me where i want to be.

the shocks it had on it had a full extension of 24". the new shocks top out at 18". that's just a little shorter than where the chains were maxing out, so i should get some decent rebound without finding a harsh end. the car is only about two inches lower in the back than where the chains were keeping it, so it's not foolish. I usually try to set a car up for three inches of bounce and two inches of rebound. i'm not a big believer in go-cart suspensions, because i've yet to race a car on a go-cart track. ECR has a lot of rough surfaces, and our TapeR had a few skipping challenges under braking. i believe the brakes work better when the tires are on the ground as much as possible. that's also why i like to run cheap low profile tires with lower than typical air pressures. the 50 series are less likely to roll over with lowered pressures while still absorbing some irregularity, and the lowered pressure helps reduce skipping.

most of my personal suspension theory runs counter to the common knowledge. for me and my driving style, it seems to work. your mileage my vary.

Team OK-Speed
Regularly losing in Class A
Soon to start losing in Class C

Re: K-It-Forward (v.ECR)

psychoboy wrote:

who says i know what i'm doing?

if the car i got from you is the car that NMF and Sputnik raced (meaning that both races ran on no MAP, no O2, and only one injector) i have absolutely no idea how you managed to tolerate it for a weekend. It's not fast now, it's just barely livable. i can't even conceive of the utter doggedness of this car for 14 hours unless those tracks let you keep the revs up for the entire lap. ECR does not. just about the time this car would get running well, it would be time to shut it down and start the chugging all over again.

you must have strong teams if they could survive this for a whole damned weekend....if i drove it for an hour in that condition, i'd throw the key at the next driver and drink beer for the rest of the weekend (and i don't drink).

remember that simca you hid at your shop over winter? 3 of the drivers of the K car at gingermann have nearly exclusive experience racing that. K car had plenty more power than we were used to.

dead rabbit society: cultured 'n shit.

50

Re: K-It-Forward (v.ECR)

She puked her guts again.  Engine #4 on the way.

This space for rent.