26 (edited by DRVOLKS 2017-06-27 09:33 AM)

Re: Ghettocharging advice wanted

Ok I will step in here on Tubos and what I have learned.
We run the www. DRVOLKs TDI Beetle it is setup to run 30LB of boost  witch we have fished a few races with that kind of boost.
What we found to break is
You need to keep the engine from moving you have a lot of tubing and silicon hose to come off with boost so movement is your enemy
Use the best hosing you can get
use some kind of locking or tight tubes to gather so the do not slid out of hoses every year install all new hose. weld as many as you can less hose the better!!
Heat  is your enemy too use a big inter cooler and get all the air you can to it 
or switch to a water cooled inter cooler
Use the best oil you can in the engine it is lubing the turbo
Use a good turbo to no chine junk
Start low with boost till you got a handle on it
Try to make it adjustable in the car
stage 2 Now think of every part that mite break and it will
Real racing axles to start
clutch upgrade a most
will the tranny take it??
Make it so you can upgrade the turbo later if you do not break stuff
Now you got it to work great
Add some tire to it and brakes now go back to stage 2
Bob Mann

27 (edited by shamwow 2017-07-06 05:49 AM)

Re: Ghettocharging advice wanted

For the turbo, just get a JY turbo from a ~3.0L,  OR get something from ~6.0L Diesel engine.  Use that as your guideline, know that the gas engine (3.0L) turbo will work better at those low pressure ratios.  For example you might consider the single turbo (t3) used on the 84-87 300ZX. Or from the diesel side, a CT26 from a 6.5L GM Turbodiesel, or HX35 from Dodge Cummins.

For a low boost wastegate, the 88-89 300ZX used a 4.5psi gate, or the Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 used two 4psi gates.

For returning the turbo oil, you can use an airtex lift pump like we did on MetSHO. Works great, cheap, JY available as well. PN is E3158, these were used on GM turbo diesel pickups in the 90s. You might need two to keep up.

The harder part is fueling and tuning.  if you want to use stock MAF/injector/ECU then look for one of these devices:
a) rising rate fuel pressure regulator.  Issue is you need to pull timing as well which isn't that straightforward.
b) VG30DETT ECU and injectors (will work great at 4-5psi). Note I think these use twin MAFs stock so you need to convert to single MAF.  Edit: just realized its vq30 never mind.
c) Apexi SAFC. Again you will be stuck with stock timing curves- no great for turbo.
d) cheat and get Nistune EEPROM and software.


For the intercooler a stock Mitsubishi EVO cooler will work well for your goals.  No blow off valve will be necessary, though the judges do like them. smile

Mike @ Charnal House Inc.
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28 (edited by mike944 2017-07-05 08:18 AM)

Re: Ghettocharging advice wanted

shamwow wrote:

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For the intercooler a stock Mitsubishi EVO cooler will work well for your goals.  No blow off valve will be necessary, though the judges do like them. smile

Why do you say no blow off valve necessary?       Isn't a BOV always needed so you don't surge the turbo compressor on snap throttle close?

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Re: Ghettocharging advice wanted

For low boost pressures like 4-5psi it simply isnt necessary and can cause more issues than it helps if the maf is placed in the normal draw through configuration. When they vent to atmosphere you lose metered air and run rich. You could use a recirculated valve but again, more trouble than its worth imo...  Many OEMs in the turbo crazed 80s did not use them, yet still had good turbo reliability. 

They do sound cool though. On the MetSHO we use a blow thru MAF and vent the bov to atmosphere, that way we dont loose any metered air.. Its installed on the roof and angled towards the main spectator area of gingerman.

Mike @ Charnal House Inc.
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