Topic: Roll Cage Components. A Bad Experience.

At our last race we showed up with a cage that was less than desirable for Lemons.  Jay gave us a pass but said get it fixed.   Some other Lemons folks recommended Roll Cage Components for a pre-built cage.  So we chopped our old cage out, and ordered a new one from Jim back in September. 

I cannot in good conscience recommend RCC to anyone else at this point. 

Today is December 2nd and I just received my cage yesterday.  3 weeks after Jim said it would arrive.  I elaborated back in September that I was racing in December and needed the cage by then, but no rush because that's 3 months away.   

He told me it would arrive the day before Thanksgiving.  When I called him he said it would arrive the Tuesday following.  When I called him again he said it would arrive Friday, December 1.  I had two welders coming down from Ohio for this weekend only, to get the cage done.  When I called the distribution center yesterday they said the cage would arrive Monday.  I had to drive halfway across the state yesterday to pick up my cage from the flatbed shipper. 

No big deal, get the cage, welders are here, Jim said instructions would be provided.  Open the boxes; nothing.  Not even an idea of what kind of cage he wants to be built out of these pieces, or where he measured spreader plates from or anything else. 

Currently been trying to get in contact with Jim all morning to get the promised instructions.  He won't answer me. 

I cannot in good conscience recommend RCC to anyone else, despite him coming highly recommended from Lemons racers.

Maybe see you guys in Atlanta.  Maybe not.

Re: Roll Cage Components. A Bad Experience.

I to had a no so good time ordering a cage from him last winter paid in full for a Golf kit with all the goods never saw it shipped over 2 months.
He did refund me but with the delay we scrapped the build.
I have talked with S&W     site  SWRACECARS com  they have Lemon/Chump kits  I have heard good things about them . My next build will be a 2000 Audi TT AWD  we did talked on the cage  but I did find 1.75 DOM  for $4.80 ft delivered and we have a real bender by the time we do all the measurements it will better to do it in house.
DRVOLKS

3 (edited by SpaceFrank 2017-12-02 10:44 AM)

Re: Roll Cage Components. A Bad Experience.

When I first got my kit from RCC, I was a little disappointed at the remaining level of fitment that was required. A lot of the recommendations from this forum assume you have enough experience to figure it out, which we eventually did. The cage kit was complete and well built, but it's definitely not a Lego set.

I assume he made the cage based on your car model and you didn't have to send him any measurements? Send me a forum email if you'd like some right-now advice, and we can exchange phone numbers. I'm certainly not the best person to ask, but I've done this before and might be able to get you going in the right direction. I'm just dicking around in my garage today, so I've got time.

As I recall, you will need to trim the main hoop to length on the bottom to set the correct height, notch the halo to fit the main hoop, and notch the A-pillars to fit the halo (this last bit is the biggest pain in the ass). The front-rear position of the main hoop will depend on how your driver's seat is mounted. The door bars, dash bar, and main hoop diagonal should all fit as-is, as long as you get everything else set right. You'll have to use the door bars to set the position of the A-pillars after you get the main hoop and halo tacked in. After the diagonal is tacked in, you install the seat and notch the harness bar to fit at the proper height vs. the shoulder belt holes in your seat. The backstays will be the last step; they will be notched already where they meet the main hoop, but will have to be trimmed to length where they hit the spreader plates.

Above all, don't fully weld any joint until you have every piece cut and notched to fit. I would avoid welding any joint at all until you absolutely have to, but if you don't have access on top of the cage and don't want to cut access holes in your roof, you may need to tack the halo to the main hoop, tilt the main hoop forward, and fully weld the halo to it before you raise the assembly into its final position for the last time.

If you can't get it done on time or you lose your welders for the weekend, get everything else ready for tech that you can, and bring the whole unfinished shebang with you to the track. You can't get your entry fees back at this point, and there will be plenty of people there who can help you finish it on Friday if you supply beer and welding supplies.

4 (edited by -SDR- 2017-12-03 06:04 AM)

Re: Roll Cage Components. A Bad Experience.

Delays in shipping aside, I doubt that anyone that has built a cage from scratch with a bender and a notcher (I have) will ever complain about a kit from RRC.  As mentioned its not leggos, and depending on the car there will be trimming/modifying or some tweeking to get a cage in a car that will not be in any instruction sheet.   

Sorry to say this, but you NEED to have someone with cage fabrication experience or a very experienced fabricatior to build a cage; Your life might depend on the cage.  My wife helped me with building my first one, and that's when she taught me how to weld.

Yes, I had to trim the main hoop & halo supports for overall cage height, finish properly notching the halo supports, trim the dash bar, and trim the diagonal inside the main hoop with my custom kit I got from RCC.  Final trimming on the supports to the halo is something that I anticipated to have to do because that is the toughest notch angle to get correct. You can use straps to temp. assemble the cage outside the car and they can be perfect, but slight angle changes when inside the car can effect everything.  Trimming for height and the notch in the same bar is not a quick process, so take your time.  If you get it wrong you need a new bar made. I will say I was not expecting a need to trim for overall height because I gave Jim VERY detailed measurements, including that one.  It would have been great if he told me I would need to do this, but was not a big deal.  BTW: All my measurements were spot on so he could have cut for height.

My RCC cage: Ford Pinto, but FULLY custom measured to make slightly bigger than standard Pinto pattern due to driver size, 1.75 DOM, 3 nascar bars each door, full shoulder bar, dash bar, angled halo, with some extra bars, spreader plates, lightweight gussets, with shipping $711. 

If you can't find someone near you to help you can at least go on youtube, there has to be someone there with a video of how to fit a cage in a car.



Bill

2020 I.O.E. CT #36 The Rootes Of All Evil,1958 Sunbeam Rapier Convertible (YES 1958!!) & 2019 Judges Choice NJMP
2016 Thompson Speedway #36 Sabrina Duncan's Revenge, IOE Trophy, 5th Place 'C' Class 1977 Ford Pinto
2009 Stafford Motor Speedway #16 Team Teflon, 11th Place (overall) 1997 Saturn SL2

Re: Roll Cage Components. A Bad Experience.

Speaking from experience, our cage came from RRC.  We had the cage with months to spare but did not have a welder until the last minute.  As stated before, we did have to do some cutting and notching to get it to work.  Our cage was not fully welding by the time the race came around.  Frank and Bob from EVR finished welding the cage for us and it only cost us a refill for the welding gas and a brisket, not bad considering.  With their help, we were on the track.  Lesson learned, if we ever have to build another car and get a cage, we would still order from RRC but do it as one of the first things we do and have the welder work on it at his leisure.

BTW, our cage did not come with instructions but given enough time, we figured out where each piece went and marked them accordingly.

Skip "Mongo" L.
Team DadBod

Re: Roll Cage Components. A Bad Experience.

SpaceFrank wrote:

A lot of the recommendations from this forum assume you have enough experience to figure it out, which we eventually did. The cage kit was complete and well built, but it's definitely not a Lego set.

When asked about RCC on this forum, I have said several times that their kit is a good start, but if you can't figure out how to notch and fit the tubes, you'd be better off just dropping your car off at a shop and letting them do it.  We've gotten two kits from RCC, and the only parts we didn't have to modify were the NASCAR door bars.  Ours was a little late (2 weeks IIRC) but we build our cars in the off season so we were never up against a real hard and fast deadline.

Captain
Team Super Westerfield Bros.
'93 Acura Integra - No VTEC Yo!

Re: Roll Cage Components. A Bad Experience.

I don't think i've ever seen anyone claim that the pre-bent kits from RCC, S&W, or any other place will just drop together with no work. They ALWAYS come with tubes over length so that you can get a good fit to the car. It's up to the installer to do the final fitment, and I have seen this warning in most roll cage threads.

What is your car? If it happens to be an E36 I have the instructions that were sent to me from RCC along with the packing list that shows lengths correlating to individual bars. I can send it along. If it isn't, I can help you figure out what is what. If you can snap a picture of all the bars that will help.




Re: RCC in general. I did not have a great experience with their customer service. I ordered an E36 cage almost 2 years ago. I was clear that I was in no rush to get the cage, so the fact that it took a couple months didn't bother me. However, when I did get it I found a few issues. A few bars that were marked on the packing list were not there, and even though I asked for slightly fancier bent X bar door bars, only the driver side came that way, the passenger was traditional x. If that doesn't make sense, this is the style of door bar I wanted
https://static1.squarespace.com/static/56999cac3b0be35eb44dabb0/5699ae0da128e6ffd2b96f6f/56aad5249cadb6c10d1cae39/1456669584770/isi_e36_m3_racecar_rollcage.jpg?format=1000w

I contacted them a few times about the issues and got radio silence. In the end, the missing bars were all straight pieces so I made them up by just buying a stick of DOM. The passenger door bars I replaced with bars I bent myself. Ended up having to do both door bar sets over since the ones sent for the drivers side didn't fit in without being unreasonably high (like borderline impossible to get in and out of high).

The kit did go together easily enough, and fit very well. The disclaimer there is that the RCC cage was the second cage I've built myself. The first was one I cut and bent myself, so I was well versed in trimming and notching tubes. I'm very happy with the cage now that it's installed, but the customer service from RCC left a little to be desired.

20+ Time Loser FutilityMotorsport
Abandoned E36 Build
2008 Saab 9-5Aero Wagon
Retired - 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby 2011-2015 "Lifetime Award for Lack of Achievement" IOE, 3X I got screwed, Organizer's Choice

Re: Roll Cage Components. A Bad Experience.

-SDR- wrote:

Yes, I had to trim the main hoop & halo supports for overall cage height, finish properly notching the halo supports, trim the dash bar, and trim the diagonal inside the main hoop with my custom kit I got from RCC.  Final trimming on the supports to the halo is something that I anticipated to have to do because that is the toughest notch angle to get correct. You can use straps to temp. assemble the cage outside the car and they can be perfect, but slight angle changes when inside the car can effect everything.  Trimming for height and the notch in the same bar is not a quick process, so take your time.  If you get it wrong you need a new bar made. I will say I was not expecting a need to trim for overall height because I gave Jim VERY detailed measurements, including that one.  It would have been great if he told me I would need to do this, but was not a big deal.  BTW: All my measurements were spot on so he could have cut for height.

I can understand him leaving some things unfinished so you can fine-tune the fitment, especially since he's doing all these bends and notches sight-unseen. I still wonder why he doesn't notch the halo bar, though. Once the main hoop and halo are bent, there's only one way to notch the halo since (at least on my kit) it hits the main hoop at the bends. That is, there's only one landing point where the width at the ends of the halo match the width of the main hoop.

Re: Roll Cage Components. A Bad Experience.

SpaceFrank wrote:

I can understand him leaving some things unfinished so you can fine-tune the fitment, especially since he's doing all these bends and notches sight-unseen. I still wonder why he doesn't notch the halo bar, though. Once the main hoop and halo are bent, there's only one way to notch the halo since (at least on my kit) it hits the main hoop at the bends. That is, there's only one landing point where the width at the ends of the halo match the width of the main hoop.

Because it depends on where you put the main hoop in the car. If you mount it an inch further back than he intended, and added an extra degree or two of rearward lean, the halo will suddenly not fall where it needs to in the car if it's already notched. Bars are all left intentionally long so that you can adjust for slight variations in placement from where he assumed they'd be.

20+ Time Loser FutilityMotorsport
Abandoned E36 Build
2008 Saab 9-5Aero Wagon
Retired - 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby 2011-2015 "Lifetime Award for Lack of Achievement" IOE, 3X I got screwed, Organizer's Choice

Re: Roll Cage Components. A Bad Experience.

That makes sense. I didn't think about leaning the main hoop.

Re: Roll Cage Components. A Bad Experience.

DRVOLKS wrote:

I to had a no so good time ordering a cage from him last winter paid in full for a Golf kit with all the goods never saw it shipped over 2 months.
He did refund me but with the delay we scrapped the build.
I have talked with S&W     site  SWRACECARS com  they have Lemon/Chump kits  I have heard good things about them . My next build will be a 2000 Audi TT AWD  we did talked on the cage  but I did find 1.75 DOM  for $4.80 ft delivered and we have a real bender by the time we do all the measurements it will better to do it in house.
DRVOLKS com


I don't know about RCC, but I can highly reccomend SW racecars.   We brought out car to them for the measurements, and the cage fit perfectly.   Obviously there was still a lot of trimming and notching to be done, but the bends were all spot on.  They supplied more than what was needed for a Lemons legal cage.

The Roto-Racer '89 Merkur:  If it ain't rusting, It ain't racing.

'14 Real Hoopties of NJ: Judges Choice

12 (edited by -SDR- 2017-12-04 09:15 PM)

Re: Roll Cage Components. A Bad Experience.

SpaceFrank wrote:
-SDR- wrote:

Yes, I had to trim the main hoop & halo supports for overall cage height, finish properly notching the halo supports, trim the dash bar, and trim the diagonal inside the main hoop with my custom kit I got from RCC.  Final trimming on the supports to the halo is something that I anticipated to have to do because that is the toughest notch angle to get correct. You can use straps to temp. assemble the cage outside the car and they can be perfect, but slight angle changes when inside the car can effect everything.  Trimming for height and the notch in the same bar is not a quick process, so take your time.  If you get it wrong you need a new bar made. I will say I was not expecting a need to trim for overall height because I gave Jim VERY detailed measurements, including that one.  It would have been great if he told me I would need to do this, but was not a big deal.  BTW: All my measurements were spot on so he could have cut for height.

I can understand him leaving some things unfinished so you can fine-tune the fitment, especially since he's doing all these bends and notches sight-unseen. I still wonder why he doesn't notch the halo bar, though. Once the main hoop and halo are bent, there's only one way to notch the halo since (at least on my kit) it hits the main hoop at the bends. That is, there's only one landing point where the width at the ends of the halo match the width of the main hoop.

The halo in my kit was notched, and fit properly.  I did tell him that it was going in at a perfect 90*. 

ADDED: I sent him a VERY detailed three view 'blue-print' with EVERY measurement I could possibly think of.




Bill

2020 I.O.E. CT #36 The Rootes Of All Evil,1958 Sunbeam Rapier Convertible (YES 1958!!) & 2019 Judges Choice NJMP
2016 Thompson Speedway #36 Sabrina Duncan's Revenge, IOE Trophy, 5th Place 'C' Class 1977 Ford Pinto
2009 Stafford Motor Speedway #16 Team Teflon, 11th Place (overall) 1997 Saturn SL2

Re: Roll Cage Components. A Bad Experience.

-SDR- wrote:

Delays in shipping aside,

+1
prices are great, everything is notched and bent to exact spec. Yes, delays are not nice - but RCC does provide a valuable service, just not in a timely manner sad

Re: Roll Cage Components. A Bad Experience.

good

fast

cheap

pick

two

Re: Roll Cage Components. A Bad Experience.

My cage came pretty quick I think it was 4 weeks. I don’t consider that a long time for something custom made to your order

Re: Roll Cage Components. A Bad Experience.

A couple comments here that suggest just dropping your car off at a fab shop for a cage if you can't do final fitment work.  When we built our CRX  (years ago) we couldn't really do the final fitment work, so we dropped the car off at RCC.  Full day tow to the RCC shop, but they were highly recommended.  I don't recall how long the work took, but there were some delays (we were not in a hurry).
We got a nice price, but what we got back was not what we discussed and would not pass tech.  Floor plates too small.  Welds on the halo were not 360.  Beyond passing tech, the harness bar not where I specified it and the main hoop was not landed where I wanted it.  Given the towing distance involved and the timing of the work, we just brought the car home to figure out the fixes.
After boxing the spreader plates (John Pagel approved) and cutting the roof up to weld the halo, it passed tech.  Seat was never in a good position due to the bad main hoop position.  Had to cut and notch a new harness bar.  In the end, I ended up with a cage I trusted, but it was never "right".

I had a terrible experience with RCC, but always assumed it was due to trying to use them as a full service cage shop rather than just a cage kit supplier.  I also gave them the benefit of the doubt since we didn't give them the chance to fix it - mostly because of the time involved.  Hearing negative experiences with the kits makes me wonder if I should have been louder about RCC years ago.  I don't trust them and have never spent money with them again.

We decided to buy a notcher, bender and better welder and just do the cages ourselves.  Simple geometry, mid-level fab skills and a good welder (person and equipment) and a cage isn't that difficult.

Apparently my name is really "Craigers".  Who knew?
We might be yellow, but at least we are slow
I'm a WINNER!

Re: Roll Cage Components. A Bad Experience.

I have chimed in on this before but we have gotten 2 cages from RCC and are planning a third right now.  Jim's shop is small and I do know he had a situation last year where he lost a key employee and his dad got sick in the same week so he had to shut down for a period of time.  He's been good to us, stepping through measurements, and making helpful recommendations.  He always answers the phone when I call and has actually followed up on the last cage he sent to make sure it fit ok (BWM e12).

I think its all about expectations, if you are looking for a super fancy cage that has some very specific details you really are better off taking the car somewhere and getting a cage put in where you can supervise the work yourself.  If you want and affordable, basic, safe Lemons legal cage and are able to make some small adjustments on your own RCC is a great option.  He runs a small shop though, so when he gets backed up it takes time to get cages out.

We can weld and notch but the bends are a pain to sort so we see it like we are buying cage material and are getting the bends pre-done for a little extra.

30 entries since 2009
#39 & #53 Overengineer'd Racing - Wilton, NH
http://www.facebook.com/nhlemons

18 (edited by Troy 2018-02-21 10:17 PM)

Re: Roll Cage Components. A Bad Experience.

We were very happy with the E30 cage we got for RCC.

Nice fit and easy install. I will buy from them again.

Troy

#35 LRE
1973 Datsun 240Z

Re: Roll Cage Components. A Bad Experience.

We've had two cages built and installed by RCC. Overall they were both good. There was minor stuff, the door bars were a bit high for the fat driver with the giant feet (me) to get in and out comfortably on one car, and a couple of the welds were not full 360 on one of the cars, but I touched that up in a few minutes. I'm reasonably certain that if I'd done a better inspection before I left with the cars that they would have touched them up, but it was easier for me to do it after I got back to the shop. It was about five minutes worth of welding for me. I've been very happy with what I got for what I spent.

We've also had a custom cage done by a race shop, and that was better, but took longer and cost double what RCC charged. That cage was perfect, but a whole lot more money and time will buy perfection.

Both of our RCC cars were done very quickly; they did one while I waited in the RV and the other in less than a week. They told me that it depends on what time of year it is. They have a busy season and they get backed up during that time.

Overall I thought they provided a good product and service at a really good price. I got quotes on both cars from another custom cage builder who is local, and he wanted more than double the $ and had a lead time of months, so for the money, I like RCC.

Going forward, now that we have a good welder and I'm more comfortable with it, I'll be shopping for a good bender and doing my own cage work, but more because I like that kind of stuff than for any other reason. If I had to pay someone to do it, then I'd probably go back to RCC. I recently built a 4-point roll bar for my track toy out of a pre-fab cage kit, and once I got the hang of welding thick metal to thin, it wasn't that hard.

Everybody grab your brooms, it's shenanigans!