A list of things you'll need to sort out to install a cell:
1. The cell itself. Used ones can be found cheap, but it must have 3 things to be Lemons legal. 1) a metal outer shell 2) a non metal bladder inside the shell 3) foam filling the inside of the bladder. If it doesn't have those 3 things it is not legal.
2. Mounting. You'll need to build a cage to mount the cell in securely. where you mount the cell should not directly mount to the roll cage. There are a lot of threads here on mounting. I'll try to link a few.
3. Fuel pickups. Most fuel cells just come with those silly duck feet pickups that are horrible for road racing. If you want it to work decently you'll need an updated pickup method. There are two common options:
A) Cheapest is go with walbro puck pickups (https://www.polyperformance.com/walbro- … ke-pickups) and build a 3-4 pickup system that connects to the out port on the cell. If you go with those make sure one of them has a bleed hole (there's a couple versions of the pickup). Those pucks will close when exposed to air to prevent adding air to the system, if you don't have a bleed hole in one and you run the cell dry you'll suck all 4 shut and they won't open again for a while because of the vacuum. We have a system like this and it lets us run to almost bone dry with warning that we're close to empty. Our system looks like this inside the cell (not my pic, but similar)
B) The other highly recommended but pricier option is to buy a Holly Hydromat. Expensive but highly functional.
4. Fuel pump. You'll need to decide where you want your pump. The internal vs external pump debate has a lot of pros and cons on each side. If you want to do it cheaply, go to your local parts store and ask for a pump from a 1989 Ford E350 Van with the 6 cylinder. It's an inline pump that is almost 100% identical in form factor to a Walbro inline, it's under $100, and it's in stock most places. Mount it somewhere that it's protected, but has some air flow. We've used one for years now in both our daytona and now our saab.
5. Fuel lines. You'll need a way to run fuel from the cell to the engine. Keep your stock fuel lines, and use them for a much of the run as you can. From your cell to those lines you will want quality hose and AN fittings. These are not cheap. Summit racing has decent prices on their own brand of AN fittings and hose. eBay can also have good prices on used NASCAR parts. Use as little soft line as you can to get from the cell to the factory hard lines. If you use push-lock AN hose add a hose clamp to the hose ends. They aren't supposed to need anything, but I've had brand new assembled push lock pop off when used on an oil cooler and cost me a motor. If that happens with fuel you're looking at a burnt car.
6. Fuel sender. You do not actually need one, but they exist. They will be more money though. Cheapest way is don't use one, figure out your average gallons/hour fuel use, and base things around that.
20+ Time Loser FutilityMotorsport Turbo Dodge Powered E36 Build2008 Saab 9-5Aero Wagon
Retired - 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby
2011-2015 "Lifetime Award for Lack of Achievement" IOE, 3X I got screwed, Organizer's Choice