Re: MN12 Lemons Teams: Speed How Have You Achieved It?

SlowMotionFire wrote:

Do you have the same 18gal fuel tank as the 4.6L cars, we can run 3 hours give or take on a fuel run i have to assume with the V6 you can push 4?

I wish...
We push 1.25 hours and start sucking air during hard right turns. pit, add 9 gal. of 91 and change drivers.
PM sent

M45 Racing,
#45 '08 Subaru WRX,
#4  '63 Studebaker Avanti, IOE, The Ridge 2016
#19 '90 Thunderbird Super Coupe(retired) Organizers Choice Award, Sears 2015

27 (edited by addict#52 2015-09-26 09:55 AM)

Re: MN12 Lemons Teams: Speed How Have You Achieved It?

I've been watching this thread for awhile, front aero? Spliter or air dam or something? Should help the front end grip some

Re: MN12 Lemons Teams: Speed How Have You Achieved It?

fiasco wrote:

Isn't an 02-09 Exploder an IRS 8.8?

I'm pretty sure it is, that's why I recommended it.  I know the earlier ones are solid axle 8.8, they're a good upgrade for the mopar guys stuck with 7&1/4 and 8&1/4" rearends, since the good 8&3/4" jobs are getting really expensive and the D60's are /bigheavy and limited gear options.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_8.8_axle

S/F....Ken M

Re: MN12 Lemons Teams: Speed How Have You Achieved It?

After a few more races here is where we stand.

We weighted the cost of rebuild kits for the 4R70W against the cost against swapping in a T45 along with the fun factor and went with the T45. The transmission went into the car smoothly didn't even have to modify the trans crossmember, even the exhaust cleared everything. We had to take roughly 1" out of the drive shaft. The most difficult part was grafting the mustang cable clutch pedal onto the cougar brake pedal assembly and snaking the cable around the massive brake booster. The idol air controller was then removed (computer can no longer control rpm) and the PRNDL position sensor was permanently put into P. We then left the speed sensor disconnected so the computer wouldn't pull timing at 110mph + This swap really woke the car up. Being able to select a gear and control rpm helped greatly to get the car to corner. You can actually steer it with the throttle now. All and all the manual swap cost us the same as a full rebuild kit and was way cheaper than having a transmission shop rebuilt the automatic. The downside has been we spend more time at higher rpm and have reduced our fuel runs from 3hr to 2hr. 

The car weighs 3200lb wet, no driver. Like others have said we have removed everything easy and don't have much left to remove/replace without getting cheaty.

We are still running the factory 4 wheel disc brakes with the ST-43 pads. We always have more brake than tire.

Still looking for a tire that we like/like paying for. (Factory 16" rims)

We took everyone's recommendations about focusing on the rear to get the front to bite. We found that 2015 RAM 2500 front springs are the correct dia to fit the rear Not sure what the spring rate ended up being after we cut them down, but it is now much stiffer and handling has improved.

We haven't strayed from the factory 3.27 ratio open diff.

Remaining Questions:

1: Strut Rod Bushings to Lower Arm - ours we shot, we replaced with Moog after 8 hours they had mushroomed and exploded, researched the issue everyone recommends OEM replacement for this reason. We can not find any OEM bushing to buy. We have using corded rubber hose lubricated with never-seize to fabricate our own which we replace every race. Has anyone found/fabricated a more permanent fix for this?

2: Those that have recommended the PI head swap. Does the computer need to be programmed to take advantage of this? We are rather illiterate when it comes to tinkering with the ECU. We would love to get in touch with someone who knows what they are doing in this department.   

3: What is the easiest way to change the bolt pattern from 5x108mm to ANYTHING other than 5x108mm.... What an annoying bolt pattern.

#814, Nothin's Hotter Than A Cougar Racing, 1996 Mercury Cougar XR7

Re: MN12 Lemons Teams: Speed How Have You Achieved It?

SlowMotionFire wrote:

After a few more races here is where we stand.

We weighted the cost of rebuild kits for the 4R70W against the cost against swapping in a T45 along with the fun factor and went with the T45. The transmission went into the car smoothly didn't even have to modify the trans crossmember, even the exhaust cleared everything. We had to take roughly 1" out of the drive shaft. The most difficult part was grafting the mustang cable clutch pedal onto the cougar brake pedal assembly and snaking the cable around the massive brake booster. The idol air controller was then removed (computer can no longer control rpm) and the PRNDL position sensor was permanently put into P. We then left the speed sensor disconnected so the computer wouldn't pull timing at 110mph + This swap really woke the car up. Being able to select a gear and control rpm helped greatly to get the car to corner. You can actually steer it with the throttle now. All and all the manual swap cost us the same as a full rebuild kit and was way cheaper than having a transmission shop rebuilt the automatic. The downside has been we spend more time at higher rpm and have reduced our fuel runs from 3hr to 2hr. 

The car weighs 3200lb wet, no driver. Like others have said we have removed everything easy and don't have much left to remove/replace without getting cheaty.

We are still running the factory 4 wheel disc brakes with the ST-43 pads. We always have more brake than tire.

Still looking for a tire that we like/like paying for. (Factory 16" rims)

We took everyone's recommendations about focusing on the rear to get the front to bite. We found that 2015 RAM 2500 front springs are the correct dia to fit the rear Not sure what the spring rate ended up being after we cut them down, but it is now much stiffer and handling has improved.

We haven't strayed from the factory 3.27 ratio open diff.

Remaining Questions:

1: Strut Rod Bushings to Lower Arm - ours we shot, we replaced with Moog after 8 hours they had mushroomed and exploded, researched the issue everyone recommends OEM replacement for this reason. We can not find any OEM bushing to buy. We have using corded rubber hose lubricated with never-seize to fabricate our own which we replace every race. Has anyone found/fabricated a more permanent fix for this?

2: Those that have recommended the PI head swap. Does the computer need to be programmed to take advantage of this? We are rather illiterate when it comes to tinkering with the ECU. We would love to get in touch with someone who knows what they are doing in this department.   

3: What is the easiest way to change the bolt pattern from 5x108mm to ANYTHING other than 5x108mm.... What an annoying bolt pattern.

Go visit TCCOA.COM and start reading up. That's the primary website for tbird enthusiasts.

1) You mean front strut rod bushings?
If you mean the bushings that connect the front strut rod to the LCA, see these parts #s. I just bought a few because I plan to swap out my LCAs before my next race (spindle to LCA ball joint looks pretty shot on my car)
http://www.tccoa.com/forums/44-suspensi … ost1569994

2) I have no direct experience with 4.6L but here is an example comment
http://forums.tccoa.com/7-engine-4-6l-5 … ost1231710


3) Mustang hub swap will get you to 5x4.5.
http://members.tccoa.com/dlf/Article.html

- On the front, you will need to give up your tbird calipers for mustang calipers/rotors/pads so you might want to plan to do so after you've worn out your ST43 pads
- On the rears, the easiest/cheapest thing is to have the rear tbird rotors redrilled for 5x4.5 and use the existing tbird caliper/pad setup.

The "better" thing to do is to buy a relocation bracket and upgrade the rears to the cobra 11.65" setup (esp if you've upgraded beyond the 99-04 Mustang GT calipers up front to the Cobra 13" rotor setup and are worried about brake bias).
http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread. … pgrade-kit

Myopic Motorsport's #888 Ceci n'est pas une Citron Thunderbird ("This is not a lemon" but a 1995 tbird w/ 93 V8 swap + shopping cart rear wing + engine mounted frito maker)
2017 Sears Pointless Organizer’s Choice
Frito Making Tbird from 2018 Sears Pointless Engine Heat BBQ - http://goo.gl/csaet4

31 (edited by SlowMotionFire 2016-10-31 02:35 PM)

Re: MN12 Lemons Teams: Speed How Have You Achieved It?

gunn wrote:

1) You mean front strut rod bushings?
If you mean the bushings that connect the front strut rod to the LCA, see these parts #s. I just bought a few because I plan to swap out my LCAs before my next race (spindle to LCA ball joint looks pretty shot on my car)
http://www.tccoa.com/forums/44-suspensi … ost1569994

Gunn,

Yes strut rod to lower control arm bushings: E9SZ3A140A and E9SZ3A140B are the ones I am struggling to find. So far i have only been able to find the Moog or other similar aftermarket design. Even went so far as to call Ford's classic parts division trying to find some. Where are you buying these from?

#814, Nothin's Hotter Than A Cougar Racing, 1996 Mercury Cougar XR7

32 (edited by gunn 2016-10-31 10:23 PM)

Re: MN12 Lemons Teams: Speed How Have You Achieved It?

SlowMotionFire wrote:
gunn wrote:

1) You mean front strut rod bushings?
If you mean the bushings that connect the front strut rod to the LCA, see these parts #s. I just bought a few because I plan to swap out my LCAs before my next race (spindle to LCA ball joint looks pretty shot on my car)
http://www.tccoa.com/forums/44-suspensi … ost1569994

Gunn,

Yes strut rod to lower control arm bushings: E9SZ3A140A and E9SZ3A140B are the ones I am struggling to find. So far i have only been able to find the Moog or other similar aftermarket design. Even went so far as to call Ford's classic parts division trying to find some. Where are you buying these from?

So my order with Ford of Kirkland (found via google) was JUST cancelled.

That leaves these guys with their decidedly un-lemony pricing as the only source I'm aware of for rubbery pieces.
https://www.supercoupeperformance.com/f … -sides-583

The other option, if you want to risk it, is that TRW is mentioned as also being rubber (the problem with the MOOG ones is that they are made of thermoplastic and will shred). If you do get confirmation that these are indeed made out of rubber, please lMK.
TRW HB1644K seems to be the part # (my local NAPA shop has them made by PCC).

-g

Myopic Motorsport's #888 Ceci n'est pas une Citron Thunderbird ("This is not a lemon" but a 1995 tbird w/ 93 V8 swap + shopping cart rear wing + engine mounted frito maker)
2017 Sears Pointless Organizer’s Choice
Frito Making Tbird from 2018 Sears Pointless Engine Heat BBQ - http://goo.gl/csaet4

33 (edited by phyveaux 2016-11-01 04:59 PM)

Re: MN12 Lemons Teams: Speed How Have You Achieved It?

gunn wrote:
SlowMotionFire wrote:
gunn wrote:

1) You mean front strut rod bushings?
If you mean the bushings that connect the front strut rod to the LCA, see these parts #s. I just bought a few because I plan to swap out my LCAs before my next race (spindle to LCA ball joint looks pretty shot on my car)
http://www.tccoa.com/forums/44-suspensi … ost1569994

Gunn,

Yes strut rod to lower control arm bushings: E9SZ3A140A and E9SZ3A140B are the ones I am struggling to find. So far i have only been able to find the Moog or other similar aftermarket design. Even went so far as to call Ford's classic parts division trying to find some. Where are you buying these from?

So my order with Ford of Kirkland (found via google) was JUST cancelled.

That leaves these guys with their decidedly un-lemony pricing as the only source I'm aware of for rubbery pieces.
https://www.supercoupeperformance.com/f … -sides-583

The other option, if you want to risk it, is that TRW is mentioned as also being rubber (the problem with the MOOG ones is that they are made of thermoplastic and will shred). If you do get confirmation that these are indeed made out of rubber, please lMK.
TRW HB1644K seems to be the part # (my local NAPA shop has them made by PCC).

-g


We did this repair. Our rubber bushings came from Autozone.  http://www.autozone.com/suspension-stee … ckfit=true

Autozone part number FA1771 in case the link doesn't work. They held up perfectly for our first race.

IOE Fall Gingerman 2018 1994 Lincoln Mark VIII

Re: MN12 Lemons Teams: Speed How Have You Achieved It?

phyveaux wrote:
gunn wrote:
SlowMotionFire wrote:

Gunn,

Yes strut rod to lower control arm bushings: E9SZ3A140A and E9SZ3A140B are the ones I am struggling to find. So far i have only been able to find the Moog or other similar aftermarket design. Even went so far as to call Ford's classic parts division trying to find some. Where are you buying these from?

So my order with Ford of Kirkland (found via google) was JUST cancelled.

That leaves these guys with their decidedly un-lemony pricing as the only source I'm aware of for rubbery pieces.
https://www.supercoupeperformance.com/f … -sides-583

The other option, if you want to risk it, is that TRW is mentioned as also being rubber (the problem with the MOOG ones is that they are made of thermoplastic and will shred). If you do get confirmation that these are indeed made out of rubber, please lMK.
TRW HB1644K seems to be the part # (my local NAPA shop has them made by PCC).

-g


We did this repair. Our rubber bushings came from Autozone.  http://www.autozone.com/suspension-stee … ckfit=true

Autozone part number FA1771 in case the link doesn't work. They held up perfectly for our first race.

Well that's encouraging that the duralast rubber ones have held up (I really didn't want to pay the non-lemony SCP pricing).

Q: Did you find yourself needing to re-align the car as well?

For reference, FA1771 looks to be the strut rod to frame bushings.
The strut rod to front LCA bushings are part# FA7193 and are also made of rubber.

It looks like my frame-side bushings were replaced sometime in the past but my LCA side bushings look like they might be original (hence the desire to replace them.)

Myopic Motorsport's #888 Ceci n'est pas une Citron Thunderbird ("This is not a lemon" but a 1995 tbird w/ 93 V8 swap + shopping cart rear wing + engine mounted frito maker)
2017 Sears Pointless Organizer’s Choice
Frito Making Tbird from 2018 Sears Pointless Engine Heat BBQ - http://goo.gl/csaet4

Re: MN12 Lemons Teams: Speed How Have You Achieved It?

time to bump an old ass thread! front struts?  do rear cobra shocks work? what are the options? ours are blown and I can't find much of anything.  will mustang stuff work with modification?

Owner/Captain of The 27 Club E46. Phoenix, AZ
and now the #95 Thunderbird