Fuel Cell Noob Question

Solid cap is fine. They do need a vent, but they want to see a vent tube with a roll over check valve. Tube needs to go up above the cell, make a few loops, then exit down below the fuel cell lowest level. Ours works as you describe, open trunk, remove solid cap, fill, replace cap, close trunk.

Thanks, our trunk lid goes vertical and access looks really good. We'll try it before the race to make sure, but I'm guessing that we'll be refueling at the pump anyway. This car is an awful pile of greasy rust and we haven't done much prep, so we won't be pushing too hard on it's first outing and will probably pit on the hour to make sure it still has all of it's assorted fluids intact. I figure we'll turn some smooth easy laps and try to keep it together and break 200 laps without anything blowing up or falling off. Opinions are divided among the team on the likelihood of that happening, so I'm keeping my eyes open for junkyard Buick 231's and THM 350s in case we do have to get wrenchy.

We have been fueling with a standard cap cell for five years now, only drawback is it can be difficult to control when it is full so if you miss calculate you may end up with a gallon of gas in the funnel and nowhere for it to go.
When we moved to injection and required a return line I drilled the cap and added the rollover valve and vent to the cap.

..one more thing, if you have a dirt track type cell with the pick up and return on different sides you want the pick up on the left and return on the right as most of our tracks we turn right unlike our dirt track friends. We made this mistake first time out with a cell and ended up pushing a lot of gas out the breather when the cell was full.

I like it, I have thought about a stop valve, the problem is getting one big enough as the opening is 4 inches in the cell and the funnel ideally would be at least 2 inches for maximum fuel dumping.

Ball valve can do that. Be cautious of material that can build static. You could even make it to hold the funnel in the hole but still get to the valve.

Fabricobble Engage!!!

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss … k%3A2+inch

Use a big bugger like this funnel
https://www.amazon.com/UltraTech-Polyet … l&th=1

We ran a fuel cell last race at Thompson and I do not get why they want you to do a loop and dump below the tank ? It can make the filling spit back a lot and give you a false sense of the tank being full. On the check valves in the vent line they said some do get stuck and yes I have seen some get rusty but still seal .  DRVOLKS

The loop is so that if fuel goes up the vent it can't start a syphon and you end up with a gallon of gas leaving the tank every time you go around a corner.

Dumping below the tank is so that when you end up upside down all the fuel doesn't just come gushing out and causing a fireball.

Have a look at this post about the vent lines. Basically what you want is for the vent line to go outside the edges of the fuel cell so that in whatever rollover state you find yourself, the fuel can't get past its own level in the fuel cell and drain out.

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/general … ystem.html

Maybe, but I kind of wanted a fuel cell around here anyway, and now it's here, so may as well use it.

Today I finally gave up on getting the snapped off bolt out of the transmission and the tail shaft housing is going on with three bolts. I spent way too much time getting my new BMW ready for VIR this weekend, so the Buick is in too many pieces for it being this close to the race. I have a feeling that we will be wrenching and welding on Thursday night and Friday morning.