1 (edited by Spank 2018-08-21 08:39 AM)

Topic: Race Pads: Rotor Wear?

I read people posting in multiple threads about how great their race pads are for lasting multiple events. Rather than hijack a thread, I'm posting new.


With the magical Everlasting Gobstopper brake pads, are you finding increased rotor wear as compared to your previous faster-wearing pads?

On a mini I'd once built for vintage racing (drove it mostly on the street but did 1 event and then sold it... YAWN) I used some HAWK black brake pads. Granted, the mini is under 1300# and the rotors are 7.5" diameter, but what I found was that the pads seemed to suffer from almost ZERO wear BUT the rotors were half gone by the time I was done using the car. The braking was great, but I didn't realize the rotors (Brembo) took such a beating.

So when it came time to do the Lemons mini, I opted for performance street pads (EBC Red) and while the pads need to be changed every 1.5 - 2 races, the rotors are still looking great. No problems with braking performance on these pads compared to the HAWK.  I went this route because the pads are cheaper than the rotors and it would seem silly to change the rotors and keep the pads. 

Anyway, interested in learning what real cars are like.

Re: Race Pads: Rotor Wear?

I have only a single data point, but the ST-43 pads on our saab seem rotor friendly. Same set of rotors on the car now as when we put them on 6 events ago. Still plenty of life. We'll replace the rotors anyway with the pads since they have some build up and vibration at this point, but it will be for that reason, not that they're worn through.

I've definitely heard others say their pads eat rotors, but I have no personal data to back that up.

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Re: Race Pads: Rotor Wear?

Seems to me you can either have long wearing pads, or long wearing rotors.  Something's got to wear.  Which one's cheaper? 

As long as the pads/ rotor last at least one full race session, and stop as needed, you're good.  We've been running Hawk HT-10's and been pretty happy with them, they last well, but they do chew up rotors some.  I'm trying some new EBC Orangestuffs as our spare pads, they are supposed to be a bit more rotor-friendly, and are about 1/2 the price of the Hawks.

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4 (edited by rebelgregory 2018-08-21 08:54 AM)

Re: Race Pads: Rotor Wear?

We use porterfield front pads and the best semi-metallics Rockauto has to offer under $20 on the rear of our 1900lb mazda MX-3. We can easily get 2 races out of the front pads, one race out of the rear, and replace rotors every time we replace pads. $12 each for front rotors, $8 each for rear.

Edit:
Specifically on rotor wear, we could probably run 2 or 3 sets of pads on one set of rear rotors, but the fronts rotors are cooked with every set of pads.

Re: Race Pads: Rotor Wear?

I once put a set of Porterfield R-4 pads on my street Mustang.
Being young and inexperienced, I destroyed my new rotors in about 5K
miles, and the pads were going to last until about 7500 miles.
Why? Race pads need heat, and there is no way generate that kind of heat on the street.
Street pads don't like heat all that much, so they get used up quickly on track.
Street pads on the back works OK for a car with little weight or small rear brakes for track purposes.

Front Porterfield R-4 pads last for 2.5 races on our 2800# rear drive, cast iron 4-cylinder XR.
Rotors last longer. Also, the pads last a lot longer when the car is not on track.

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Re: Race Pads: Rotor Wear?

I think it has a lot to do with your operating temperature range.  This is influenced by the car weight, car balance, and by the track.  I think Sonoma is really hard on brakes because you have to break from the high 80s into 2nd gear speeds three times every lap, (every 2:20 for us).

For many races we had lots of trouble with pad wear.  We were burning through the 98% of the Porterfield pads in one race at Sonoma.  We changed our front brakes to those from an acura CL for 1 extra inch in diameter and changed to the Hawk DT60s I think.  These lasted just less than a whole Sonoma race (it's bad to run out of pad material on Sunday afternoon while trying to outbrake another car into the bus stop, but those tire barriers are a fun slalom. 
The hawks were also super hard on our rotors.  Part of it was not the pad's fault though.  We had too much forward brake bias and the fronts were doing all the work.  So we got matching CL brakes for the back and changed to the ST43s.  We'll be starting our third race on our first ST43s in a month and the rotor wear is quite minimal (like less than 0.5mm).  I expect we might get 2 more races out of both the pads and the rotors!  I believe that these work for us because we have operating temperatures that were at the high end of the useable range for the Porterfields and the Hawks.  The ST43s have also never been scary when cold, they bite sufficiently when cold and warm up fast.  The only thing I don't like about them is that they are not easy to modulate with our power brakes.  The porterfields were much better at that.

Brakes don't need to be a significant wear item.  When working well, some of the pad material is transferred onto the rotor face and the friction is generated without removing material.  I think the worst pad wear is when you are operating above the pad's temperature range because the pad material burns off.  I think the worst rotor wear is when you are operating below the pad's temperature range when the friction is developed by the abrasive pads removing rotor material.  The ST43 compound is known for having a very wide operating temperature range.  Just call the folks at Porterfield they can put the compound on the right blanks for you and they are the nicest folks.  The compound is expensive to buy but cheap to use.

Re: Race Pads: Rotor Wear?

Hawk Black's are know for being hard on the rotors. That's been my experience with them on a Fox Mustang that I raced, even with the "Cobra" brake upgrade. While PFC's are expensive I have always found them to be rotor friendly but they do produce enough heat that if you don't cool the rotors they will develop cracks. Even with cooling they will but much sooner.
In racing brakes are a wear item and I'd rather have the car stop and have to replace parts then have the car not stop!

Re: Race Pads: Rotor Wear?

The one thing I take from these brake discussions is that unless Car A & Car B are the same make/model/relative speed, you really can't compare pad/rotor experiences.  Everything is sorta anecdotal rather than empirical. 

My anecdotal experience is that EBC yellows quickly consume both the pads and rotors on a heavy/fast car.  I very much like ST-43's for pad/rotor wear on big heavy cars and Hawk Blue for lighter cars.  At some point I will be trying ST-43 on the lighter cars too.  My mother says I can't talk about Carbotech anymore.

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9 (edited by Guildenstern 2018-08-21 02:01 PM)

Re: Race Pads: Rotor Wear?

Spank wrote:

I read people posting in multiple threads about how great their race pads are for lasting multiple events. Rather than hijack a thread, I'm posting new.


With the magical Everlasting Gobstopper brake pads, are you finding increased rotor wear as compared to your previous faster-wearing pads?

On a mini I'd once built for vintage racing (drove it mostly on the street but did 1 event and then sold it... YAWN) I used some HAWK black brake pads. Granted, the mini is under 1300# and the rotors are 7.5" diameter, but what I found was that the pads seemed to suffer from almost ZERO wear BUT the rotors were half gone by the time I was done using the car. The braking was great, but I didn't realize the rotors (Brembo) took such a beating.

So when it came time to do the Lemons mini, I opted for performance street pads (EBC Red) and while the pads need to be changed every 1.5 - 2 races, the rotors are still looking great. No problems with braking performance on these pads compared to the HAWK.  I went this route because the pads are cheaper than the rotors and it would seem silly to change the rotors and keep the pads. 

Anyway, interested in learning what real cars are like.

Pads cost $200 bucks or so. Rotors cost $25. I'd rather burn through rotors.

With the R4 we were wearing out the pad faster, with the R4E we have started seeing much less pad wear with zero loss of braking ability.

Given the costs, the Cast Iron is what i'll be happier throwing out after a race.

Also nobody gives you squat to recycle old brake pad backings, but a year worth of dead rotors is a case of beer. WIN WIN!

Mistake By The Lake Racing (MBTL)
88 Thunderbird "THUNDERBIRDS ARE GO!", Ex Astris, Rubigo / Semper Fracti
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Re: Race Pads: Rotor Wear?

Hawk Blue and Black are both hard on rotors.  Particularly when cold.  Like on the street cold.  Even rolling around the paddock Blues will tear iron off the rotors.  You could see it in the surface finish.  It looked like the rotor was galling.  I never really loved the pedal feel with Hawks either.

PFC 97s and ST43s are both pretty reasonable on the rotors.  We'd get heat-checking long before wear became noticeable.  As mentioned, the ST43 temperature range is wide and forgiving, though a heavy and fast car with marginal rotor sizes may need to bump up to ST47.

Re: Race Pads: Rotor Wear?

Our new pads are st41/43 and they are fairly long wearing and rotor friendly.  Much better modulation than Carbotech RP2, and less wheel shake towards the end of the race.

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Re: Race Pads: Rotor Wear?

Either pads wear or rotors wear.  If pads are lasting then rotors are wearing.  Pads are damn expensive.   Rotors are cheap.  Get where I am going with this?

LemonAid - Changing kids lives one lap at a time.

13 (edited by OnkelUdo 2018-08-28 03:20 PM)

Re: Race Pads: Rotor Wear?

TeamLemon-aid wrote:

Either pads wear or rotors wear.  If pads are lasting then rotors are wearing.  Pads are damn expensive.   Rotors are cheap.  Get where I am going with this?

With the ST43's we find this not to be the case.  5 races on original pads and 7 races on rotors for the C5 conversion on the Dustbuster.  Rotors were only replaced because of heat checking slowly developing.  And Rotors for C5's were damned expensive 3 years ago when we bought them.  Their replacements were $45 each.

Re: Race Pads: Rotor Wear?

Don’t want to say things are completely different, but what you’re seeing in the Dustbuster is NOT what we’re seeing in the LemonAid E30 with ST43’s.   We moved to those pads because of these type of reports, and let’s just say they don’t wear that way for everyone.  Not to mention their initial bite and stopping power isn’t great.

So... this is a perfect time to mention that how fast the car is, how heavy the car is, how drivers use the brakes, etc all can factor into this discussion also.

So front race pads  are often on average (depending on brand) $170 set.   E30 rotors are about half that. 


OnkelUdo wrote:
TeamLemon-aid wrote:

Either pads wear or rotors wear.  If pads are lasting then rotors are wearing.  Pads are damn expensive.   Rotors are cheap.  Get where I am going with this?

With the ST43's we find this not to be the case.  5 races on original pads and 7 races on rotors for the C5 conversion on the Dustbuster.  Rotors were only replaced because of heat checking slowly developing.  And Rotors for C5's were damned expensive 3 years ago when we bought them.  Their replacements were $45 each.

LemonAid - Changing kids lives one lap at a time.

Re: Race Pads: Rotor Wear?

E30 rotors are <$20 a piece shipped to your door

https://www.amazon.com/Centric-Parts-12 … +bmw+325is

I have a fast track E30 and use these all the time, never had a problem.

Maybe you have upgraded brakes though.

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Re: Race Pads: Rotor Wear?

TeamLemon-aid wrote:

Don’t want to say things are completely different, but what you’re seeing in the Dustbuster is NOT what we’re seeing in the LemonAid E30 with ST43’s.   We moved to those pads because of these type of reports, and let’s just say they don’t wear that way for everyone.  Not to mention their initial bite and stopping power isn’t great.

So... this is a perfect time to mention that how fast the car is, how heavy the car is, how drivers use the brakes, etc all can factor into this discussion also.

So front race pads  are often on average (depending on brand) $170 set.   E30 rotors are about half that.

Absolutely!  We are stopping a lot more weight but from much lower speeds.  Our brakes are also massively oversized for those speeds but we still manange to keep enough heat in the rotors to keep the ST43's linear after about three laps (not in the wet).  We guesstimate our as-raced weight without driver at about 3100-3200#'s with 10.5" rear rotors and front rotors are 12.8".  When your top speed on the back straight of Gingermean is 90 mph on a good day, that is a lot of whoa for not much much speed.

Re: Race Pads: Rotor Wear?

In our Volvo 240 (~#2800) we went though a whole rotor in one race at Thompson in Hawk Blues. Were not getting enough heat into the brakes for sure. (Second race ever).  I switched to Porterfield R-4E's per their recommendation, I was gonna get the ST-43's.  They have been great for us.  One set of pads and rotors have lasted over 6 events with minimal rotor wear and a lot of pad left.  I would not be surprised if we got another 2 events or more.  We are pretty light on the brakes though.  I could not be happier the the R-4E's would recommend for an intermediate skill team/mid B car.

Moot Point Racing - 1991 Volvo 240 - #496

Re: Race Pads: Rotor Wear?

We have used the Porterfield R-4Es on both our RX-7 and 914; both with great results in terms of both wear (pads and rotors) and performance.  Granted, the 914 isn't exactly known for staying on track long enough to really stress the pads, but in the short bouts of raciness it has seen, they have been great.  Brake ducting probably helps quite a bit, too.

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Re: Race Pads: Rotor Wear?

R4-E have been the pad of choice for us since first running the Benz in 2012. We are on the third set of front pads, second set of rear.

As for rotor wear? I put new factory rotors on the front, for the last race we entered, the abortive 2018 INde.

What I'm getting at, is the car still has the rear rotors it was delivered with, and it took 206k miles, the last 10k at Lemons track speeds, to get the fronts suitably chewed up to warrant replacement.

Benz factory rotors are awfully hard, though, and their OEM pads are soft. I've been DDing 300D variants since 2004. haven't bought any rotors yet. Numerous sets of the $40 oem pads, though.

Run Porterfields with hard rotors, and alll will last forever. Having burned away the dust boots, it IS probably time to rebuild the calipers...

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Re: Race Pads: Rotor Wear?

We had major brake pad issues this weekend.  ST43s up front and Carbotech XP10’s lasted Saturday but R4E’s on the rear at the end of the day on sunday.  Put a fresh set of R4E’s on the back with 75 mins left and burnt through the rears in that time as we tried to chase down the TaTa’s.

Time for a complete overhaul of braking system...

LemonAid - Changing kids lives one lap at a time.

Re: Race Pads: Rotor Wear?

We run ST47's in the front, Raybestos rotors. The rotors don't wear, the pads don't wear...voodoo. The 47's are a little too aggressive for me with power brakes and no ABS. I'm probably going to step down to 43's.

Re: Race Pads: Rotor Wear?

Agree with the rotor friendliness of ST-43 pads.  I kept data on the rotors and these pads from race to race.  Each race took .005" of metal off the rotors.  They still had a long way to go before their discard thickness, but they started developing cracks.   It wasn't wear that killed these rotors, it was overheating that killed these rotors

My bad.  I stopped using air ducts to cool them after getting wheels with much bigger openings. Braking behavior improved after the wheel change, (it stopped jerking right or left under braking at that point,) and I thought, "Ducts! Who needs 'em?"  Wrong.

Powerful brakes need powerful cooling to preserve the life of all parts in the vicinity.

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Re: Race Pads: Rotor Wear?

TeamLemon-aid wrote:

We had major brake pad issues this weekend.  ST43s up front and Carbotech XP10’s lasted Saturday but R4E’s on the rear at the end of the day on sunday.  Put a fresh set of R4E’s on the back with 75 mins left and burnt through the rears in that time as we tried to chase down the TaTa’s.

Time for a complete overhaul of braking system...

You set fastest lap of the weekend, The real problem is the rest of the car being too good.

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Re: Race Pads: Rotor Wear?

We just pulled the rotors off the saab after 5.5 races with ST-43s and 0.5 races with autozone specials. There are some minor waves in the rotor surface, but i swear they are barely worn down. Going to get them turned and keep them around for spares just in case. They were centric blanks. We replaced them with the same. We are full ST-43 fanboys at this point.

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Re: Race Pads: Rotor Wear?

Yeah.   The car is really good.   No doubt.   It can be better.  The times we had were the result of running 10/10ths trying to chase down a win.   Having working brakes will make us safer and less likely to push to the edge...

Guildenstern wrote:
TeamLemon-aid wrote:

We had major brake pad issues this weekend.  ST43s up front and Carbotech XP10’s lasted Saturday but R4E’s on the rear at the end of the day on sunday.  Put a fresh set of R4E’s on the back with 75 mins left and burnt through the rears in that time as we tried to chase down the TaTa’s.

Time for a complete overhaul of braking system...

You set fastest lap of the weekend, The real problem is the rest of the car being too good.

LemonAid - Changing kids lives one lap at a time.