Topic: Hunt for a good flaring tool

Looking for a good flaring tool to do steel fuel and brake lines. Will rarely be used so don't want to spend the $200 for the awesome k-tools one. Do I just rent from Autozone? Help...

Re: Hunt for a good flaring tool

$60 from Amazon is my choice....  https://cal-vantools.com/products/maste … ring-set/.  I've had good luck with it.

Mastercool makes the high $$ hydraulic one for anyone looking.  Can be a little awkward to use under the car.  But it can do other cool stuff like GM steel fuel line connectors.

-mike

Re: Hunt for a good flaring tool

Mastercool. It’s worth it.

Re: Hunt for a good flaring tool

rlchv70 wrote:

Mastercool. It’s worth it.

There is no other tool to use after you have used one of these.
Everyone that I have borrowed my tool to has that opinion.
But again it's not cheap!
But it will be the last such tool you'll ever have to buy!

Re: Hunt for a good flaring tool

If you aren't going to spend the money for a good one then just rent one from the local parts store. A cheap one will likely get you through a few flares but will eventually develop a gouge on the anvil cone, threads bind or clamp will start deforming the tubing. Check the rental to make sure it doesn't have issues. Nothing is more frustrating than fighting a poor flare that won't capture or leaks. Cut it off, make a new one with the same tool and it does the same thing, really frustrating.

6 (edited by Guildenstern 2018-11-19 05:30 PM)

Re: Hunt for a good flaring tool

I really like the “on car” type dies like beaker posted like this: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum- … gJ4UPD_BwE

You gotta buy one for each size, and they’re slower, but I haven’t had a bad flare yet.

Also NiCop. Always use NiCop.

Mistake By The Lake Racing (MBTL)
88 Thunderbird "THUNDERBIRDS ARE GO!"
A&D: 2014 Sebrings at Sebring (NSF), 2014 NJMP2 Jurassic Park (SpeedyCop), 2012 Summit Point J30 (PiNuts)
2018 Route Sucky-Suck Rally Miata.

Re: Hunt for a good flaring tool

Guildenstern wrote:

Also NiCop. Always use NiCop.

Nicop brake lines are well worth the money but never seen it for fuel.

Re: Hunt for a good flaring tool

I've only ever used the cheap ones that your local auto parts store sells.

Proper prep is key. If I take my time and make sure the line is cut square, the end is completely de-burred, the tool is clamped onto the line square and level, the die is lined up square, etc, the flares come out fine. If I rush and just throw the tool on however it falls, they come out like garbage. I've had the same tool for like 6 years now and it still makes good flares if I take the time to use it right.

20+ Time Loser FutilityMotorsport
Turbo Dodge Powered E36 Build
2008 Saab 9-5Aero Wagon
Retired - 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby 2011-2015 "Lifetime Award for Lack of Achievement" IOE, 3X I got screwed, Organizer's Choice

Re: Hunt for a good flaring tool

OnkelUdo wrote:
Guildenstern wrote:

Also NiCop. Always use NiCop.

Nicop brake lines are well worth the money but never seen it for fuel.

They make it in 3/8 so that's what I'm trying.

Re: Hunt for a good flaring tool

eastwood sells the same as mastercool.

It's the cat's ass.

Silent But Deadly Racing- Chief cook and bottle washer, Former Flyin Turd Race Team Captain 
Ricky Bobby's Laughing Clown Malt Liquor Thunderbird Turbo Coupe, Datsun 510, 87 Mustang (The Race Team Formerly Known as Prince), 72 Pinto Squire waggy, Parnelli Jones 67 Galaxie
Besmirching race tracks in the Eastern US since 2001

Re: Hunt for a good flaring tool

OnkelUdo wrote:
Guildenstern wrote:

Also NiCop. Always use NiCop.

Nicop brake lines are well worth the money but never seen it for fuel.


It’s marketed as brake/fuel/hydraulic/transfer line.

Mistake By The Lake Racing (MBTL)
88 Thunderbird "THUNDERBIRDS ARE GO!"
A&D: 2014 Sebrings at Sebring (NSF), 2014 NJMP2 Jurassic Park (SpeedyCop), 2012 Summit Point J30 (PiNuts)
2018 Route Sucky-Suck Rally Miata.

Re: Hunt for a good flaring tool

TheEngineer wrote:

I've only ever used the cheap ones that your local auto parts store sells.

Proper prep is key. If I take my time and make sure the line is cut square, the end is completely de-burred, the tool is clamped onto the line square and level, the die is lined up square, etc, the flares come out fine. If I rush and just throw the tool on however it falls, they come out like garbage. I've had the same tool for like 6 years now and it still makes good flares if I take the time to use it right.

Don’t forget; lube it. For brakes use brake fluid, for fuel anything compatible like motoroil is fine.

I’ve seen too many terminally galled flare dies.

Mistake By The Lake Racing (MBTL)
88 Thunderbird "THUNDERBIRDS ARE GO!"
A&D: 2014 Sebrings at Sebring (NSF), 2014 NJMP2 Jurassic Park (SpeedyCop), 2012 Summit Point J30 (PiNuts)
2018 Route Sucky-Suck Rally Miata.