1 (edited by charles1953 2019-07-31 01:47 PM)

Topic: Master Battery Disconnect Switch

The used Volvo 242 car we bought for our first race already has a Battery Disconnect Switch but it is located near the center of the dash (see picture at https://photos.app.goo.gl/vj1cWV43V8s6sY5o8 It is easy for the driver to operate and can be reached from the outside of the car through either window but I am concerned it won't pass tech in this location - or will it? Looking for recommendations.

Thanks.

Ed White

Re: Master Battery Disconnect Switch

You should be ok, but if you want to make it extra good, you can add a remote pull cable. Available at all the usual places like summit, it's like the fire bottle pull. Mount it near the outside of the car and run it so it pulls the switch to off.

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Re: Master Battery Disconnect Switch

Unless rules have changed, it will pass but adding a cable pull to the passenger window is not a bad idea.

3.G.1 Master Electrical Kill Switch. All cars must have a racing-type master electrical kill switch easily turned both off and on by the belted-in driver. The control for this switch should be red; the OFF position should be clearly indicated; the switch should be easily accessible from outside the car; and the switch should be clearly marked by a three-inch or larger lightning-bolt symbol. All electricity, including the battery, charging, and ignition circuits, must be interrupted by the kill switch. Don’t put the switch where it’s likely to be hit by another car in traffic or crushed in an accident. All exposed posts and connections must be insulated with electrical tape, rubber caps, or other nonconductive material.

4 (edited by RSB 2019-07-31 03:07 PM)

Re: Master Battery Disconnect Switch

I guess that depends on how your tech inspector defines "easily accessible".

If there is a fire inside the car, its unlikely that someone will reach inside to pull the kill switch. If the car is upside down (that never happens...) the switch may be tough to find from the outside.

We have one in the center of the car, near the gearshift lever. We also have a remote pull that is mounted just inside the drivers door window, next to the A-pillar. As TheEngineer said, you can get a generic pull cable from multiple sources. We re-purposed the car's original hood release handle/cable. Never had an issue with (east coast) tech once they see that the engine will stop when we pull the handle by the window. Jay and John Pagel have both seen it a few times, and they were OK with the setup.

I don't know of anyone who has failed tech for having the switch in the center of the car, but running the remote pull is cheap insurance.

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5 (edited by DelinquentRacer 2019-08-01 02:08 PM)

Re: Master Battery Disconnect Switch

When the Skunk SHO caught fire at Sears Pointless years ago, I was told by a track official that safety crew were specifically trained to NOT put their hands into a burning car to turn off the kill switch. Mine was located less than half a hand span inside of the car. Having access to a kill switch on the outside might save your build.

BTW, that kill switch needs a label.

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Re: Master Battery Disconnect Switch

DelinquentRacer wrote:

When the Skunk SHO caught fire at Sears Pointless years ago, I was told by a track official that safety crew were specifically trained to NOT put their hands into a burning car to turn off the kill switch. Mine was located less than half a hand span inside of the car. Having access to a kill switch on the outside might save your build.

BTW, that kill switch needs a label.

He would know smile

I am completely satisfied with our switch which is basically just inboard of the left side rear view mirror, secured to the cage. If it gets struck, being inboard of the A pillar and cage tubing, we have bigger problems. Easy to reach from the driver seat and easy to reach from outside. There's something Rube Goldberg about multiple switches and using pull cables, but that's merely my opinion.

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Re: Master Battery Disconnect Switch

Type44 wrote:

... Rube Goldberg ...

Don't disagree, but we wanted something that would pass tech for Lemons and CC (which requires the kill switch in the center of the car). Didn't want to have to re-wire the damn switch to go back and forth. Haven't run a CC race in 5 years, but it works, so we didn't mess with it.

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Re: Master Battery Disconnect Switch

The other option is a second switch in series with the first. We went this route when we moved the battery to the trunk. The positive lead off the battery goes through the new outside switch, then continues on to the inside switch, then to the rest of the car. As an added bonus it lets Jay flip off your car's power when you visit the penalty box and then let you panic when it won't turn on again.

https://imgur.com/Cr9mu4k.jpg

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Re: Master Battery Disconnect Switch

Like everyone else has said I think an extra pull cable would be a good idea.  Extra safety, pass tech faster, why not right??

For our car I used one of the spare cables that came with our fire system, drilled a hole in the kill switch lever, used a throttle cable stop from a hardware store and a few metal tabs to finish it off, took me less then an hour and it works great.

http://www.murileemartin.com/UG/LMIF18/0881-IMG_0695.jpg

http://www.murileemartin.com/UG/LMIF18/0882-IMG_0696.jpg

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Re: Master Battery Disconnect Switch

Tiptoe the rat wrote:

Like everyone else has said I think an extra pull cable would be a good idea.  Extra safety, pass tech faster, why not right??

For our car I used one of the spare cables that came with our fire system, drilled a hole in the kill switch lever, used a throttle cable stop from a hardware store and a few metal tabs to finish it off, took me less then an hour and it works great.

We have the same. Our extra pull cable is located on the passenger side hood for the exact reason that someone not the driver might need to use it.

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