Welding in the main hoop feet-this OK or do we totally suck?

The spreader plates per the rules are supposed to be welded directly onto a sturdy part of the car.  If I understand you correctly, you made the box from the spreader plate.  If so, you might have an issue right there.  Remember that every time you double the thickness you make it 4 times the strength. IF I were to ever build plinth boxes to mount a cage I would use metal thicker than 1.25".   I have seen better welds.....  If it were mine, I would cut out the tops of those boxes, and then one edge at a time I would cut/grind those welds out and have someone that can weld better re-do them.

BTW: Where are you located skippy??  There might be someone near you that can lend a hand.

Bill

We're in Boonton NJ, and if anybody is close we could sure use a hand. John Pagel gave a "barely acceptable" and I want to give our best to clean it up some. He said that we ought to have used 3/16 on the top plate and the welds look cold. Had problems with minor burn on the car so turned down the wire speed and volts, probably too much.

We added the boxes because the main hoop from the cage kit was about an inch off the roof and we wanted to raise it up as much as possible, got a 6'2 driver. The surface was angled and putting a flat plate on the car wouldn't have been flush and would have left a big gap between the hoop and roof. At least the boxes are perfectly level.

Asked John if we should grinnd down the top plate flat and weld the 3/16 on it for thickness.

Also considering cutting it all out and paying a pro, but dammit, we want to give it a go! Spent the full day on this, but if ripping it out is what we should do, we will.

Ps-yes there was some grinding.

All ears for suggestions how to improve this and thanks!

Given this is the main hoop, it would not be acceptable in my opinion.   These plates are easier than welding the bars, so looks like you need some help to avoid doubling the DIY cost.
I'd be looking for an existing caged car instead needing a new motor, etc.

Disclaimer: I'm just some guy on the internet. No affiliation with any organization or certification of competence available. Your mileage may vary. Not to be listened to, all advice worth what you pay for.

First, did you put a bottom on the plinth box that matches the contour of the car? If not, then you have a cookie cutter on the bottom of the main hoop and you will likely have to cut it out and do it again.

Second, the order you do the welds affects the amount of annoyance later (but it does vary depending on the car and cage style). The main consideration is the method to get at the top of the cage to weld the joints that are too near the roof to reach. Some will say to cut holes in the roof, which is a method, but depending on where your joints land might not be optimal (say there is some of the stock roll structure in the way or something).

Third, it's usually better to tack everything in place first to check fitment, then disassemble the parts that are in the way of welding the difficult parts and strategize how to get at the hard to reach parts.

Burn through is a heat management problem. Slow down. Don't try to weld the whole thing at once.

I assume you bought a pre-bent cage kit, and it looks like there is a lot of slope to the floor there. Are you sure you sited the hoop at the location intended by the company that bent the tube?

Thanks. Got some solid advice via email directly from some Lemons guys who build cages. We'll give it another go. If its not safe, we take it to a pro.

Today was some good progress. Looks better, safer. Will post up the new and improved in a few days and we've got a certified welder coming to lend a hand.