• Registered: 2020-06-17
  • Posts: 34

Topic: S95 Mustang Redneck 3-link?

Came across this Redneck 3-link. Just use one of the upper control arms with a rod end heim joint and a panhard bar. Trash the other UCA.

Have you ran something like this in Lemons? How did it fair?

Cant post links yet so.. been lurking too long!
trackmustangsonline search junk yard build and go to page 2.

or copy past to browser?
trackmustangsonline.com/threads/junkyard-dog-build.13356/page-2


Similar setup was mentioned here - but the thread was about weight so made this thread to be more specific.

from DelinquentRacer

Fox and SN95 Mustangs have that snap oversteer when the spring rate on the outside tire goes infinite as the outside upper control arm binds. The only real solution to fix the problem is a 3-link system and a panhard bar. That's what the 2005+ cars use, though it's a compromise as well because of the too short upper arm.

Best thing to cure the four link problem for on track use is spherical rod ends on the chassis end of the control arms. This allows for some pretty good range of bind-free motion. Cut the bushing-end off, box the arm and mount the rod-end. Now you can even adjust pinion angle for the lowered stance that track cars like

Like almost every other reply, I agree that adding weight is not a solution, only a penalty.

ergh - hopefully I will be able to fix these links in the future
forums.24hoursoflemons.com/viewtopic.php?pid=140130#p140130

2 Reply by jimbbski (edited by jimbbski 2020-07-07 08:08 PM)

  • From: South of Chicago
  • Registered: 2011-11-26
  • Posts: 750

Re: S95 Mustang Redneck 3-link?

I have modified Fox Mustangs and the SN95 is little different from a Fox.  The mod you mentioned has been done but for Lemon's I don't know if it will help that much.  Since you're limited to 200 TW tires the grip you will have is nowhere near to what a true DOT race tires can give. 

But if you want to try this you will need to beef up the UCA mounting points since all loads will now go through these mounts and using heim joints rather than rubber bushing also adds to the loads seen by these mounts. The panhard bar should be no higher than the center line of the rear axel and it can be lower still but it's also nice if it's adjustable for height.  That adjustment should to be at both ends of the panhard mount so the bar remains level when the car is sitting still. This allows you to change the roll center height of the rear suspension.  You can make only the body mount adjustable but then your limited to just keeping the bar level. The mount on the body side has to be strong and well braced or it can fail.
The bar should be as long as you can fit under the car.  The bar I make for my Fox Mustang was over 30 inches. The body mount was a  square tube coming down from the frame rail behind the axel and the axel mount was  in line with the LCA mount on the opposite side. About where the rear shock was. The mount went around the shock and was welded to the LCA mount. The bar was bolted in "double shear".
The body mount had a brace running from the bottom of the mount  to the opposite side of the car to the frame rail.

  • From: Gilbertsville, PA
  • Registered: 2009-12-22
  • Posts: 3,251

Re: S95 Mustang Redneck 3-link?

one team is running a true 3 link/ panhard bar, but i'm not aware of anyone using the ghetto setup.

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  • From: NWI
  • Registered: 2018-02-28
  • Posts: 16

Re: S95 Mustang Redneck 3-link?

johnjamesmiller wrote:

Came across this Redneck 3-link. Just use one of the upper control arms with a rod end heim joint and a panhard bar. Trash the other UCA.

Have you ran something like this in Lemons? How did it fair?

Cant post links yet so.. been lurking too long!
trackmustangsonline search junk yard build and go to page 2.

or copy past to browser?
trackmustangsonline.com/threads/junkyard-dog-build.13356/page-2


Similar setup was mentioned here - but the thread was about weight so made this thread to be more specific.

from DelinquentRacer

Fox and SN95 Mustangs have that snap oversteer when the spring rate on the outside tire goes infinite as the outside upper control arm binds. The only real solution to fix the problem is a 3-link system and a panhard bar. That's what the 2005+ cars use, though it's a compromise as well because of the too short upper arm.

Best thing to cure the four link problem for on track use is spherical rod ends on the chassis end of the control arms. This allows for some pretty good range of bind-free motion. Cut the bushing-end off, box the arm and mount the rod-end. Now you can even adjust pinion angle for the lowered stance that track cars like

Like almost every other reply, I agree that adding weight is not a solution, only a penalty.

ergh - hopefully I will be able to fix these links in the future
forums.24hoursoflemons.com/viewtopic.php?pid=140130#p140130

We are running something surprisingly similiar in our Talon after we unintentionally ripped the stock rear connections out of it in turn #3 at Gingerman.  We don't corner like an IRS, but the rear-end is VERY predictable and stable at speed.  In a RWD car my guees would be a much less nervous car underload?  We also had all mounts were beefed up and an additonal cross bar along the rear axle between the suspension components and our fuel pump. 

We were run into HARD last year after the upgrade, enough to cost the other team their wheel (cracked) and we had a good bit of finish removed from our brand new AR919s, but the car still sits as straight as ever, it just shrugged the hit off and kept rolling.

1992 Eagle Talon ES(i)
  • Registered: 2018-02-19
  • Posts: 47

Re: S95 Mustang Redneck 3-link?

We run that set up on a Fox in Lemons. Rear spring rate must be increased significantly. We are running 600 in/lb springs in the rear and it could still use more roll bar.
I will get some pics of it up later.

  • From: Shippensburg, PA
  • Registered: 2010-11-18
  • Posts: 1,963

Re: S95 Mustang Redneck 3-link?

Hanger 18 Customs wrote:

We run that set up on a Fox in Lemons. Rear spring rate must be increased significantly. We are running 600 in/lb springs in the rear and it could still use more roll bar.
I will get some pics of it up later.


We are the team that is using a purpose built 3-link.

I love the extra grip this gives the rear of the car.  If/when you make a mistake, it is much easier to catch.

Instead of stiffening up the rear, have you thought about ways to give the front more grip to match the rear?

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