Topic: Catalytic converters.

Hi good people.

Got a deal on a future Lemons (2003 corolla automatic). I have many questions but I intent ask them when I will be able to cross the south border and go attend a race.

But right know the engine is out and while im there, before I put it back in, I wonder of its worth it to remove and by pass the catalytic converters?

They look kinda ok and I will be keeping all the rest of the oem exhaust untouched to keep the noise level as low as possible.

Thanks a lot. Have a good day.

Ps: if there is any team in eastern canada please contact me.

Re: Catalytic converters.

I don't like being unable to hear the engine as it soars into rod slinging RPMs so I would advise either keeping the cats and removing all other mufflers or ditching the cats and keeping one muffler.  Personally, I'd dump the cats if the car won't be returned to the road.  If you do and it has downstream 02 sensors, putting spark plug anti-oil foulers underneath those post cat 02 sensors will keep the check engine light away.  I like to try to keep those things off so that when something really does go amiss you sorta get informed and can read the codes.  Granted, lit or not lit you can still read them but this way I know something is unhappy.

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Gone bye-bye
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Re: Catalytic converters.

This one is a toally car dependant.  Does that car have a tendency for the cat's to get clogged?  Can you get serious money for them being OEM?

We have yet to leave a cat intact but the E46 we bought already built will likely leave them...even though working OEM header cat's for these bring serious money in CARB compliant states.  The Esteem, the upstream cat was GREAT (almost guaranteed new'ish) but the downstream cat could not flow a 1 hp shop vac on blow...that one was an easy call.  The Camero had them removed before we got it.  the '47 plymouth did not even know what those were.  The Saturn had almost no OEM exhaust left so also a no-brainer.

Re: Catalytic converters.

Pretty sure there are not oem. Cause 18 years living in the rust capital of the world (quebec) and the flanges are still in one piece.

There is no indication they tend to clog and I can live with cel on. But they sont sell for a lot of money here.

Will see. Thabk a lot guys.

Re: Catalytic converters.

On our 2000 v6 mustang the cat is right by the drivers right foot. The heat coming from that sucker was one of the limiting factors in our driver stint length. They are coming out.

Re: Catalytic converters.

The normal operating temperature of a catalytic converter is between 550°F to 1600°F,
with the optimum temperature being about 800°F.
Ref.
That's A LOT of radiant heat under your floor.
If you decide to keep them, make sure you have a good heat shield installed.

Capt. Delinquent Racing
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Re: Catalytic converters.

We consider the cat a serious fire hazard on a crapcan being operated @ WOT in questionable tune,as it will certainly provide ignition point when the rods fly out or the car parks in dry grass.

Please pull it, sell it.

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Re: Catalytic converters.

Team Infinniti wrote:

We consider the cat a serious fire hazard on a crapcan being operated @ WOT in questionable tune...

Agreed. We found that our cat was hitting 1,500F at WOT, and I'm certain it is (was) not plugged.

We cut the cat out right away and have not looked back.

EPA Racing - #40 Supercharged Dodge Caliber

Re: Catalytic converters.

Team Infinniti wrote:

We consider the cat a serious fire hazard on a crapcan being operated @ WOT in questionable tune,as it will certainly provide ignition point when the rods fly out or the car parks in dry grass.

Please pull it, sell it.

+1, we always pull cats out of track and race cars. I haven't seen it personally but I've heard they can be a fire hazard, especially if it starts running rich.

Full Ass Racing
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