Door required.

I would say if that is your passenger door, you MIGHT get away with it if you show up with something homemade but you'd likely be told to go buy a junkyard door for the second race.

I would say a homemade driver door may be a little more difficult to get through tech. If you REALLY are too cheap to go buy a driver door, and want to go the fabricated door route, you may be best to just weld it up/closed.

Pure speculation.

The only "right" answer is to email the head of tech and get his ruling.

Particularly as the entity behind all this is literally called DriversDoor Inc., there's a chance they may be inclined to take that item seriously.

This is the correct answer. Contact John Pagel: pagel@24hoursoflemons.com. My guess is he will strongly prefer seeing OE doors, or at least what's left of them after (optionally) gutting their interiors to make the cage as wide as possible.

our doors are just skins, as are many others. To install a proper cage with good door bars you need all that stuff removed. Our door bars extend outwards almost to the skin. The crash structure in a door is nothing compared to 2 bars of 1.75 DOM...we might even add another.

I assume there is some reason you don't want an actual door that OPENS? 

The "Duke Boys" might have made it look easy climbing in and out of the windows of the General Lee, but don't forget they weren't wearing a helmet and HANS while doing it.  It ain't fun.

No, no you don't. I have two cars caged right now that have the doors 100% intact and more than sufficient door bars. Does gutting the door make it easier? Often times yes, but it's not required. There's also the flip side where leaving the OEM crash structure means that minor hits have a chance of never even touching the cage because the door took the hit, which could save a lot of worry over if a cage is compromised from smaller hits.

I also agree that having doors that open makes your life so much easier. Working on the car, getting drivers in and out, pulling the seat, any of that stuff. Yes you can cut the door down a little so the opening is larger than the OEM window, but being able to open the door and reach through the bottom of the door bars to get at things is worth it. Belts expire, wiring goes wrong, mechanicals break, at some point you'll have to do something to the car where you'll wish the door still opened to make it a little easier.

If we left the doors complete your arm would be right on the cage. That would be no fun with contact, which we did and totaled the car. W/o those few inches our driver would have been hurt. You want body parts as far away from the cage as possible. We have also had the passenger door hit, if the bar was in the door would have folded up, on smack with the palm and you couldn't even tell. There are advantages to both. We chose losing weight (about 30lbs a door) and safety.

This is why your use of an absolute was not the right one here.  Every car is different.  Please be more careful with such statements.  Our team also has two of five cages we have built (for ourselves) where the doors are completly intact...one with working electric windows.  In one, your arms is a good 8" above the highest door bar...so totally fine.

Its a minivan.  We want the door bars where the vehicles on track will impact it, not where it impedes egress for little or no gain. 

Bottom of the seat is also about 9" above the floor which gives us excellent visibility.

Our 47 Plymouth is not much different for height but the door situation is different.  No glass but also only about 1.5" to gain with Nascar bars and even then would have to breach the (beefy) b-pillar.  It has xbars as most sedans do.

This was why I made my "warning" about absolutes.  Lemons by nature has diverse vehicles and cage requrements to make those vehicles work.  You were quoting from a "sporty car" frame of mind.  This guy might have a 1980's F150 or a Rolls Royce or 1972 Cadillac Eldarado.  The basics of a cage that passes tech do not change but things like "you cannot do adequate protection for XYZ" do change.  The Imperial a fellow racer gave me has like 4" elbow to x-bar with a standard seat.

Edit:  Reread the original post and it is a Cherokee.  If a 2-door, he has to make the very tough decision of breaching the b-pillar or doing bowed out x-bars if it is a 4-door.  2-door, yeah, I would vote for real NASCAR bars but 4-door I would not.