Topic: Best "Automatic Car" to build???
Don't say just build an manual. There are reasons around my question.
If one was to start a new build and "needed" to build an automatic transmission car, what would people recommend?
The 24 Hours of Lemons Forums → Lemons Newcomers → Best "Automatic Car" to build???
Don't say just build an manual. There are reasons around my question.
If one was to start a new build and "needed" to build an automatic transmission car, what would people recommend?
P71 Crown Vic
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I haven’t run enough races to give longevity advice but.......
If you run an auto - I would not recommend downshifting it by hand. Use the brakes to slow down - they are a lot cheaper to replace.
Having learned that lesson - my rebuilt 727 Torqueflite will be running its third race in NH coming up. We will see if it lives
Our 7004r held up pretty well behind a mildly built 305 in our 84 Trans Am. We used the ac condenser and used tractor hydraulic fluid. We did add a race valve body after our 2nd race...That helped with lazy shifts.
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I haven’t run enough races to give longevity advice but.......
If you run an auto - I would not recommend downshifting it by hand. Use the brakes to slow down - they are a lot cheaper to replace.
Having learned that lesson - my rebuilt 727 Torqueflite will be running its third race in NH coming up. We will see if it lives
727's went behing 700+hp race cars. They are strong. Just keep them cool.
.If you run an auto - I would not recommend downshifting it by hand. Use the brakes to slow down - they are a lot cheaper to replace.
This is true of manuals too. Brakes are for slowing down and should do most of that work.
I've never built an automatic for the track, but general advice is that heat is the enemy of drive train components. I would pick a transmission that has a cooler already, or is easy to add one, then upgrade to a beefy cooler.
P71 Crown Vic
This
P71 Crown Vic all the way.
If you or the team wants to do a GM car, Id say Turbo 350. So like an older Camaro, Monte Carlo, Nova, etc..
and it ALL cases, no matter what you build, get a big cooler, deep sump pan, and keep the fluid cool at all times.
P71 Crown Vic all the way.
If you or the team wants to do a GM car, Id say Turbo 350. So like an older Camaro, Monte Carlo, Nova, etc..
and it ALL cases, no matter what you build, get a big cooler, deep sump pan, and keep the fluid cool at all times.
Decent P71's are getting expensive.
Tiptoe the rat wrote:P71 Crown Vic all the way.
If you or the team wants to do a GM car, Id say Turbo 350. So like an older Camaro, Monte Carlo, Nova, etc..
and it ALL cases, no matter what you build, get a big cooler, deep sump pan, and keep the fluid cool at all times.
Decent P71's are getting expensive.
Alas this is true....
So get one that is LEMONY!! ;-)
Alternative if you want something much better on consumables (tires, fuel, etc) but also more a Class C competitor, any RWD Volvo with the AW70/71/70L/71L (so 1984-1995 not a V/S90). Only thing that kills them is water in fluid from a failed in radiator cooler. Same basic transmission was in the Toyota Pickup, first get Tacoma, Previa, early Supras, etc but with a divorce bell housing and Toyota specific gearing. Best years for parts availability and some semblence useful engine diagnostics are the late 1988-1995 as long as you get one with Bosch fuel and ignition management. This encompasses the 240, 740, 760 turbo and 940.
Decent P71's are getting expensive.
Luckily, this is Lemons, so it doesn't need to be decent.
A stripped out cop car has half the interior work already done for you.
Sn95 v6 mustang auto has done well for me in 2 races so far.
Mr.Yuck wrote:Decent P71's are getting expensive.
Luckily, this is Lemons, so it doesn't need to be decent.
A stripped out cop car has half the interior work already done for you.
More concerned about rust and extremely worn out suspension. Yes I know it can be replaced. And I would not take a car to the track w/o really good suspension...but some people will drive anything.
Alternative if you want something much better on consumables (tires, fuel, etc) but also more a Class C competitor, any RWD Volvo with the AW70/71/70L/71L (so 1984-1995 not a V/S90). Only thing that kills them is water in fluid from a failed in radiator cooler. Same basic transmission was in the Toyota Pickup, first get Tacoma, Previa, early Supras, etc but with a divorce bell housing and Toyota specific gearing. Best years for parts availability and some semblence useful engine diagnostics are the late 1988-1995 as long as you get one with Bosch fuel and ignition management. This encompasses the 240, 740, 760 turbo and 940.
We were thinking actually a Volvo. Preferably a RWD unit. But really tough to find cheap. You can find autos all day long. I personally want to do a wagon for the fun factor!!!
We were thinking actually a Volvo. Preferably a RWD unit. But really tough to find cheap. You can find autos all day long. I personally want to do a wagon for the fun factor!!!
Fun factor is a thing but what lots of folks don't think about is...you know how useful wagons are on the street because they can carry a lot of stuff...works for racing as well. Our minivan is even better as we can load 4 large bins of spares, 4 spare wheels and tires, etc and have room left over. In the off season it still stores all its own race gear.
NA 940's are normally pretty inexpensive as the overweight, unloved last itteration of the redblock RWD platform. They weigh the same as the 740 once stripped to race.
240 wagon market got ruined about 8 years ago by the hipsters that bought them, failed to maintain them and junked them. They have the better front suspension for racing, lighter weight but honestly are not worth the premium.
Crown vics are cheap and avaliable, but heavy
We have run TH350 in 12 races. We brake to slow, but manually shift to 2nd to exit the corner. Cheap to rebuild, dependable if you use decent parts.
Crown vics are cheap and avaliable, but heavy
lots of meatal you can cut out. Gutting all 4 doors, trunk lid, hood, roof (gives you more room for cage), heater box, power windows, locks, emissions, AC unit...I'd bet you can easily get 500+lbs out of it. The door bars alone are probably 25-30 each.
We were thinking actually a Volvo. Preferably a RWD unit. But really tough to find cheap. You can find autos all day long. I personally want to do a wagon for the fun factor!!!
As long as you keep oil in it, the B230F and B230FT (turbo) are indestructible. It is pretty easy to add a turbo to a NA B230. 740 and 940 are almost the same car and most parts are interchangeable.
Until you get to be a serious racer, they are class B/C cars depending on how horrible they are.
1990-1996 Infiniti q45
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