Lets see gauges, switch panels and cockpit photos (Page 2 of 4)

I'm going to say yes, they should be triggering on amperage, which shouldn't matter AC or DC, but I don't think I'd risk it.  The small glass fuses are usually rated for AC but are used all the time in DC circuits, but I'm assuming you're talking about the larger household type AC breakers.  Although a large 220v panel at the dash would look a tad interesting, unless you've got a flux capacitor in the back it's probably not worth it.

breakers and fuses are actually a wattage limiter so volts*amps
no one seems to remember that which is really troublesome in the electric car community. Trying to buy a 108v 400a fuse people keep telling be to get the 136v 400a

We had similar issues when we did the motor swap and did away with the factory column ignition switch.  If we put them on the tranny tunnel, an errant sleeve or glove could flip the ignition switch off while operating the shifter or e-brake.  Building an out-cropped box wouldn't work either, since we didn't want to clutter the area teammates used to strap in a driver from the passenger side.

I don't have a picture, but we settled on putting the ignition switch and start button on the inside driver's door.  It is mounted forward and high, and doesn't get hit huring ingress/egress.  Additionally, this puts the switches in reach of any driuver we use- best of all is any teammate can operate the switches from outside the car, without having to lean in or search for them.

I like the clock!  It's tough to read a 2"x 0.5" digital display in a vibrating car with the sun glaring on the screen!

It's bad luck to not be superstitious.

You guys have music?   iTunes?

Less complicated is more reliable, resist the urge to hack up the factory wiring when not needed. Every time you add a switch or splice in a gizmo it's another point of failure. We saw no reason to add switches for devices that are usually controlled by the factory electrical system. We did need to remove the ignition switch do disable the column lock so we made this simple box. Toggle for ignition 1, ignition 2, START, volt gauge, and a cigar lighter jack for the diagnostic tool.

2 switches, that is the only things our drivers are concerned with.

I kinda figured that the KILL switch was a good master on / off.... and so just have a start button for it now...   turn the power on via kill switch....  +12v to the starter solenoid...  in a momentary Push to make "contact" spring loaded switch and away we go.

as to switch on the column...  Saabs don't do that anyway -smiles-

I have a separate ignition switch and the starter push button is wired to the "always hot" side.  That way I can crank the engine without it starting.  It's good for compression checks.  Downside is eager drives sometimes forget to hit the ign. first during driver changes.  Then that spit second of panic "why isn't it starting" followed by "turn the ignition on you idiot"

Seems odd to have to reach through the steering wheel to start the car.