Re: Water Cooled Brakes
There are 2 problems I see with shooting water in the brakes.
1 thermal shock if the nozzle pops off, hose breaks etc.
2 if the water keeps the inside of the disc cool but the outside stays hot there could be a ton of internal stress waiting for a way out. This may or may not be an issue depending on how the water/vapor does as it works its way through the vanes.
Street cars dont have glowing or near glowing rotors when they drive through a puddle. Turbo exhaust housings are thick cast iron, the water isnt hitting the exducer wheel. They do crack, and they dont need to resist flying apart from a half ton of torque.
If you get the mist droplets fine enough i could see it definitely helping. Its just the unknown part while racing with 100 other tools (me included) that freaks me out a bit.
Why not add bilge blowers to dump air in? Im sure theres room in a car that big. I definitely get the fact that with added power the brakes arent up to snuff. On our car we have the biggest rotors and calipers that we can fit under 15" rims and they go into meltdown temps on track if we push too hard. Thats with brembo rotors and endurance carbotec pads (lasted a race day n a half) and hawk HT-10 pads (lasted 2 hours.)
My ideas to help ours have been bilge blowers dumping air into the rotor and possibly one of these, http://www.wilwood.com/PDF/DataSheets/ds213.pdf I like this style because it is a closed loop system, if a valve fails to hold pressure you still have brakes. Its not exactly simple to implement though with the bleeder return tubes. It is nice because it is self bleeding.
Eventually we're doing a brake and rim size upgrade to fit the brakes to help as i think thats the only real way to fix it.
