The 24 Hours of Lemons Forums → Bench Racing → New Build
Also what is a good bright warning light that I can mount in the drivers view so I don't have a repeat of an incident from last year?
LED trailer brake light? That's what we're planning on using, along with a buzzer. We're also contemplating an automatic kill switch if those two things go ignored.
steve wrote:Also what is a good bright warning light that I can mount in the drivers view so I don't have a repeat of an incident from last year?
LED trailer brake light? That's what we're planning on using, along with a buzzer. We're also contemplating an automatic kill switch if those two things go ignored.
Good idea, so i went and looked on ebay and found this http://www.ebay.com/itm/2PCS-12V-24LED- … mp;vxp=mtr
Looks like it might work
When you say cut it out at the DIN rail are you talking about above the large square opening? I was thinking of cutting off the top section where the vents are and maybe mount the oil and temp gauges in the area where the heater controls used to be?
Maybe something like this
I know this is a later model but you get the idea
Oh you want it for gauges not for a radio. I was talking about cutting the bottom part that the radio goes in and just bolting it to the tunnel. Take the whole tombstone and cut it back to sit in against the dash. the plates screw onto the tombstone for gauges they don't go in the DIN slots. Think building facade if you wanted to keep that as opposed to just cutting gauges into the dash.
steve wrote:When you say cut it out at the DIN rail are you talking about above the large square opening? I was thinking of cutting off the top section where the vents are and maybe mount the oil and temp gauges in the area where the heater controls used to be?
Maybe something like this
I know this is a later model but you get the idea
Oh you want it for gauges not for a radio. I was talking about cutting the bottom part that the radio goes in and just bolting it to the tunnel. Take the whole tombstone and cut it back to sit in against the dash. the plates screw onto the tombstone for gauges they don't go in the DIN slots. Think building facade if you wanted to keep that as opposed to just cutting gauges into the dash.
Well I kinda want both, a radio will be a must to help me with my theme plans but I'm really looking for an old style AM/FM type radio maybe even a cheap sparkomatic or other type. My old spec miata had the two gauges mounted in the vents and it worked pretty well, I'm just trying to find out what all the cool kids do 
Didn't get a whole lot done this weekend due to other obligations but I did manage to squeek out a couple of things
The used header is painted
And installed after having to take the left motor mount loose and jack the engine up
steering input shaft is removed for some modifying
What you gonna do to the shaft?
Top secret race stuff, guaranteed to shave at least 1-2 seconds off each time I tow it to the track
But I might be bribed with some of that hipster beer
Didn't get a whole lot done this weekend due to other obligations but I did manage to squeek out a couple of things
This is not getting a whole lot done? For me that means I tightened the rearview mirror mount.
Top secret race stuff, guaranteed to shave at least 1-2 seconds off each time I tow it to the track
Might the secret involve a little of this?
steve wrote:Didn't get a whole lot done this weekend due to other obligations but I did manage to squeek out a couple of things
This is not getting a whole lot done? For me that means I tightened the rearview mirror mount.
steve wrote:Top secret race stuff, guaranteed to shave at least 1-2 seconds off each time I tow it to the track
Might the secret involve a little of this?
Hahaha you got me, dang there goes my free beer
All welded up including the plugs
And greased up too
Good idea, so i went and looked on ebay and found this http://www.ebay.com/itm/2PCS-12V-24LED- … mp;vxp=mtr
Looks like it might work
I have a pair of those ^^^ (another project) and they sucked.
Here's what we use left over from another project.
Even Ray Charles can see this one!
steve wrote:Good idea, so i went and looked on ebay and found this http://www.ebay.com/itm/2PCS-12V-24LED- … mp;vxp=mtr
Looks like it might work
I have a pair of those ^^^ (another project) and they sucked.
Here's what we use left over from another project.
Even Ray Charles can see this one!
That looks great, hows about heading over to Columbia SC when you get a chance to show me how you did that
Wasn't the 8 track I was hoping for but hey it was free: Just one more item for the theme
And I found this little cutie for less than $5 direct from China , what could possibly go wrong
Got my fancy ebay radiator in 
and the factory oil cooler plumbed
Not much happened this past weekend but hopefully this coming weekend I will have some new pictures to post. Plus I need to make a few dollars to help with my racing addiction. One thing I did get in the mail today is the brackets for the mirror so that's at least something
Getting a little closer to hearing this thing actually run, way better than just sitting in it making vroom vroom noises
She's a bit dusty, but the intake and injectors are all in
Fuse box and wiring mostly sorted out
Got a better shot of the engine last night, work has halted for a little while but plans are to fire it up nect weekend and if that goes well I'll get back on fabricating some more body panels.
So it was a bitter sweet weekend, I did get the engine to fire up but that's when the troubles began 
after adding water to the radiator and cranking the engine back up I turned it into a Milk shake machine
https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hp … e=572A8D1A
Turns out I forgot to torque the head or possibly the torque wrench was faulty since when I tried to re torque it the clicking part of it did not work anymore and this was the last thing I used it on. Question now remains as to whether or not the bottom end is damaged or if the rod and main bolts are torqued properly? Arrrrrrgggggg
I've blown out as much of the goop as I could from the head, plus used a rag and screwdriver to get in some of the tight places to soak it up. I even jacked up the back of the car to get the engine level so I could drain the oil and run some fresh stuff through the block. I also bought two new filters to change it out twice to make sure I get everything out of it (maybe). Keep happy thoughts. I guess I'll see if I can lift the engine up high enough to pull the pan and check the rod and main torque and inspect the bearings just to be safe.
Edit: Never mind, if you did that then nothing would be lubricated before you start it back up.
Edit: Never mind, if you did that then nothing would be lubricated before you start it back up.
good point, I thought about just turning the engine over with the fresh oil, maybe pulling the pugs so there isn't a load on the rod bearings and mains, plus since the valve cover is off I could lube the cam shafts too?
Also the engine was only run for approximately 5 seconds before I shut it off and found out there was a leak
Odds are good nothing dreadful happened, I had a 3.8 ford V-6 (head gasket killer #1). I did much worse with a sump full of milkshake. Even milkshake still has some lubrication properties. It's not like you were revving it or anything.The worse part is the moisture hanging around and doing horrible things to the metal.
Well I think I dodged the proverbial bullet. I got it fired back up last night and it's holding 60lbs of oil pressure and not making any funky sounds so I'm claiming victory But and that's a BIG but, I haven't topped it back off with water yet so tonight may be the real test. Other good news is that it is idling now and that's an improvement. Next item is to finish the brakes on the left front, put the drive shaft back in, and bleed the clutch. Hopefully that will make it mobile under it's own power once again.
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