Strange camber reading after lowering (Page 2 of 2)

Seriously, that right front camber reading is where you need to look. Every BMW of that vintage I've aligned, is around 1.1 deg neg camber, the slammed ones might get to 2.2... Look carefully at everything, strut mount, LCA ball joints, everything. You have something glaringly wrong, I just don't know what, from here.

Fixed that for you

Hey there, noticed your post figured I should chime in here. I'm extremely familiar with alignment and if I saw this alignment sheet after one of my techs did an alignment and had a pull, the first thing I would say would be to  cross rotate the front tires and see if it pulls in the opposite direction. pulls are normally created by caster being off, a more negative caster, a stronger pull to that side because that wheel is back than the more positive on that same axle. There are obvious other reasons, locked up brake caliper, seized bearing, even lower ball joint issues. The most common if caster is even and yours is, would be a radial pull, which most often will increase with speed. If the pull is to the right, the steering wheel correction is to the left. Flip flopping front tires will let you know immediately, good luck.

running outta time on this one,  just 1 weekend until butt-turrible,  i  have tried to further diagnose the pulling problem:

I have discovered the following:    the car will pull hard left  after making a hard left, until you make a hard right in which it will pull consistently to the right until you make a hard left again.
you can hear a pop if you run the wheel lock to lock with the car stationary or moving slowly.

something is moving, and throwing everything out of whack... any ideas?

ohh also, the stupid car if failing smog, it passed with flying colors 2 years ago.   I tested it 2 days ago and it failed on CO and NOX,    today I put the stock ECU chip in ( took the $30 ebay unit out)   and now it only fails on C0.  the max is .65 and i'm measuring .69 .    the only thing I can think of it I did switch to a cooler temp thermostat and switched from 2.91 to 3.71 rear gears since it was tested last.

Tierods loose?  Steering rack bolted down?

It just barely failed on CO.  Leaning it will cause NOX to go back up.  Some of the tricks I've used are:

Adding some methanol to the fuel.  They are measuring byproducts of gasoline combustion, not methanol.  You need to drain the fuel afterwards as the stuff can be corrosive.
Change the oil.  Old oil contains combustion nasties which cause CO to go up.
Pump up the drive tires to 60lbs - reduces rolling resistance
Disconnect an out of sight injector and plug it into a spare so it doesnt throw a code.  It will run crappy but it turns that cylinder into an air pump diluting the rest with air.
Drill small holes in exhaust post muffler.  Draws air in to dilute tailpipe gases.
You are close enough that changing old oil, new plugs and slightly retarded ignition might be enough.

The stock spring/strut mount won't let you add any more than about ~-3/3.5* before it hits the strut tower. Set your toe to 0 and you're good to go.

So....I forgot the washers that go between part that goes on top of the spring and the tower mount with bearings that allow everything to pivot causing everything to bind.   Bearings were shot and rubber was destroyed so everything's new now.