Never before has so little power been made from so much displacement! (Page 14 of 57)

it's pretty much just me building this thing. it would be easier if i did not have a day job

This if for gingerman. we may also hit another race with it this summer but i don't expect us to use this car too much before it gets retired (or at least the drive train gets retired)

I really do hope I don't cause chaos on the track with smudged windshields with this thing. but it would be a good idea to be prepared. perhaps fill the fluid reservoir with a degreaser of some kind.

some advance testing with a spray bottle of klotz v-twin oil and different fluids would be helpful.

another day, another bit of progress.

the prop flange was stupidly difficult to cut down. that was some seriously hard steel. but anyways, i cut it down, added a sprocket. modified a sprocket to mount on a bronco II alternator i had. and added the cam timing link.

you can kinda see the link here:

I also decided to not cut a tooth from the sprocket to use as a crank angle sensor. this motor may spin too slowly for a variable reluctance pickup that i'd have to use on that. i'll be mounting a wheel that I can use a hall effect sensor on right behind the chain. i also plan on using a hall effect sensor for the cam sync signal. this should prevent issues down the line.

unfortunately it did not. i'm going to use the starter on the Subaru transmission to turn the engine. this is why i haven't started firing anything up yet, i need the pieces from the machine shop to turn the engine to get the first start.

it does not have to be divided. you need twice as many pins in the chain as teeth in the chain. it's a 40tooth sprocket and a 80pin chain.

it won't be so bad to setup. it's easy to tell the static position of the crankshaft without opening the motor.

the ratio is 40:11 or 3.64. and the motor will go up to 2000RPMs (maybe not even that high) so the alt max RPM is about 7300RPM. and from what i was told the alt will give full charging voltage (but not full current) around 1800RPMs which is around 500RPM at the crank. i expect it to idle a little lower than that but this should keep everything more than happy/charged.

I don't expect to need an idler, but it would be easy to add if necessary. i do have an adjuster on the alternator, you can see it in the picture

everything is solid mounted to the chassis, engine, transmission and alternator.

this car will be fantastic at removing fillings from teeth.

I thought I was nuts for running the CRX with the Quad4 hard mounted.  But it wasn't too bad, actually.  Your low idle might make it a little more .. interesting.

Titanium!!  Holy crap.

Titanium because it's tougher than stainless steel and when you're ordering custom sprockets, the price difference is negligible. those sprockets are going to get a serious thrashing.

today was quite productive. I connected the throttle and the clutch.

i made an adapter that has a mechanical advantage in it for the clutch. It uses a kia pushrod an MR2 slave cylinder and the 1993 subi cable.

the installed pic is a bit hard to make out, but here it is anyways:

and the throttle took a bit of thinking, but this is what i came up with:

using the stock throttle cable in a rerouted position i was able to make it almost to the far end of the car. i used that cable and a bit of machining to transfer the motion to a rotation. i then made 5 control arms that will go up and down to the appropriate throttle bodies. all the control rods will be mounted in tension.

here's a view from high enough to see it all.

That's it for the day!

Wow, I'm f'ing worried about setting backlash correctly on a new rear diff and you've got all kinds of rocket surgery handled daily in your shop.  We're not worthy!!!