The 24 Hours of Lemons Forums → The Airplane-Powered MR2 → Never before has so little power been made from so much displacement!
You've done more engineering, work, and thinking on that one little part of your build than we have with our entire build, and we've had an engine rebuild.
hey admins: Phil, Jim, Chris.
Why isnt this thread in the "Epic Builds" section?
hey admins: Phil, Jim, Chris.
Why isnt this thread in the "Epic Builds" section?
If we move it now, it will kill all the links from other sites.
Hoonatic Racing wrote:hey admins: Phil, Jim, Chris.
Why isnt this thread in the "Epic Builds" section?If we move it now, it will kill all the links from other sites.
thanks for not moving it then. i'm having fun occasionally browsing the web and finding backlinks to this thing. there are some interesting e-arguments out there about this thing 
Hoonatic Racing wrote:hey admins: Phil, Jim, Chris.
Why isnt this thread in the "Epic Builds" section?If we move it now, it will kill all the links from other sites.
fair enough
just a quick update before I head out to the shop.
i signed up for a picassa account and i'm going to try using it. someone give me a heads up if these hotlinks don't work.
local lemon guy Aaron made these awesome parts for me:
and I'm almost done connecting the transmission to the engine:
i'm not done working for the day, but i'm so ecstatic about this that i needed to stop and post it:
I made a little video of the cranking so you can see the speed, it looks like about 40-60RPM which is significantly less than I expected but it should be good enough to start it.
That build just looks amazing. I wish i had a small fraction of the skills needed to do any of this.
Awesome build. Thanks for taking the time to document it and show off the progress. I can't wait to see video of it in action.
I didnt even think of the gearings effect between the starter and the engine. Good thing you went with hall sensors!
Your sprockets are both pretty good sized, i dont think you will have an issue with them not being strong enough. Do you have a way to keep the angryhampster? box cool? Could you run cooled engine oil through it or does it need gear oil?
You need some caution tape or some finger eating area stickers around those sprockets.
Are you going to T the fuel hoses at those injector feed adapters? Im thinking if you get air in the system it will be tough to get the bubble out or make it run lean til the air is out which could get ugly. If its t'd the air can hopefully go by and up n out instead of getting trapped.
This thing is friggin awesome!
i don't expect the angry hamster box to get too hot. it's right in the air path and it's all aluminium. i'll place about 1/2 a quart of klotz gear lube in there and call it good.
the top sprocket is about 12" across so the chain should see about 1200lb of tension from the engine. figure another 3-4x for shock loading.
in the video you could see the chain riding up a bit, i'm adding a small lead in angle on the teeth to stop that. i'm not sure why the manufacturer did not place that in there.
do we have an artist in the house that can draw a seriously mangled hand/chain sticker?
Is the cantilever on the prop shaft going to be ok? I guess there isn't a lot of side load and there is a very robust bearing in the front of the crankcase... Just answered my own question,, I'll shut up now..
Please make a robust chain guard between the chain and the driver... I really want to pass this car through tech......
-John
Is the cantilever on the prop shaft going to be ok? I guess there isn't a lot of side load and there is a very robust bearing in the front of the crankcase... Just answered my own question,, I'll shut up now..
Please make a robust chain guard between the chain and the driver... I really want to pass this car through tech......
-John
the leverage on that shaft has me worried also. but there's no way to know for sure. the size of the sprocket will help it.
as far as the guard goes, there was no plan to add anything, i'm leaving the stock rear firewall intact.
*edit* the concern was clarified over e-mail. a shield will be added to protect against the chain going through the window.
The rest of the day's progress wasn't much that I can show in pictures. There were a few adjustments to the angry hamster to bell housing adapter and I added a new bolt pattern into the flywheel to fit the 1993 pressure plate on the 2008 flywheel. This means the clutch is pretty much 100% done other than the hydraulic line for the clutch.
I decided to split the todolist a different way. What needs done to get the engine running and what needs done to get the car ready for the race.
What needs done for the engine to run:
1) oil
a. build oil tank to fit in frunk (*need to buy cap & fittings yet) - ordered
b. Run lines safely from rear to front and back.
c. Find match for missing screw on oil pump
2) Vacuum
a. Connect throttle bodies for MAP signal
3) Fuel
a. Make a distribution block with a pressure regulator
b. Make fuel lines.
4) Megasquirt
a. Draw up vehicle wiring harness
b. Wire it up.
c. TUNE IT!
What needs done for the race
1) brakes
a. hook up aux vacuum port to get power brakes
2) gauges
a. tach
b. fuel
c. Cyl #5 head temp. (most shrouded)
d. Oil temp
3) axle
a. fasten axle nuts!
4) linkage
a. finish weld all the throttle linkage
b. finish weld all of the shift linkage
5) exhaust
a. finish welding
b. add baffles
c. paint it
6) cooling
a. order superduty fan blade - ordered
b. make fan blade mount.
7) Alternator
a. Wire it up!
8) Clutch
a. Get flywheel resurfaced
b. Make final missing piece of plumbing
c. Bleed it!
9) Engine supports
a. Add in extra supports to front motor mount it looks a little light.
10) safety
a. cage
b. steering
c. brake light
d. extinguisher
e. seat
f. 5pt harness
4 weeks left and critically, 3 weekends left.
crap, you're F'd on time.
good luck. i wish i was closer so i could help get it finished in time.
i hope you get some helping hands.
crap, you're F'd on time.
good luck. i wish i was closer so i could help get it finished in time.
i hope you get some helping hands.
The problem is, most of this stuff is fabrication and most of the guys on my team can't fabricate. so I'm a one man band for 95% of this.
it also does not help that I have a day job that i kinda need to show up for 5 days a week. otherwise I'd have this done in a week and a half maybe i need to figure out a job that I can get paid for this instead of working 40hrs a week to pay for the other 40-60hrs a week of work anyone hiring?
Hoonatic Racing wrote:crap, you're F'd on time.
good luck. i wish i was closer so i could help get it finished in time.
i hope you get some helping hands.The problem is, most of this stuff is fabrication and most of the guys on my team can't fabricate. so I'm a one man band for 95% of this.
it also does not help that I have a day job that i kinda need to show up for 5 days a week. otherwise I'd have this done in a week and a half
I could have wrote that!
I trailered nearly 6hrs each way this weekend to do the final fab on the Lex (thanks Dan!). Too bad you aren't closer, we could make some crazy(er?) stuff... You need a good TIG welder? - I'm not putting much mileage on my 180 syncro, but need a new MIG
i'll second that comment that you're f'ed on time. If i lived closer, i'd come help you with fabrication, just because i really want to see this thing run!
hopefully some local Lemons folks can come help you out. Good luck!.
I could have wrote that!
I trailered nearly 6hrs each way this weekend to do the final fab on the Lex (thanks Dan!). Too bad you aren't closer, we could make some crazy(er?) stuff... You need a good TIG welder? - I'm not putting much mileage on my 180 syncro, but need a new MIG
those synchrowaves are nice! there's a 325 at the machine shop I'm using to make many of these parts.
i'll get a workout (and a suntan) from it here in a bit when i weld up the oil tank. it starts as a 8" x 23" long round aluminum tube capacity is just under 20qts if i fill it to the top, once i leave a bit of airspace in there we're probably talking about 16qts or so. enough for a minimum of 2hrs of driving between oil fills.
I'm not planning any oil filters.
I wonder if a crankcase vacuum pump could help the rings seal better and cut down on oil consumption? I know its not exactly a cheap option but it may help a lot.
You can get oil filter brackets cheap, http://www.jegs.com/i/Derale/259/25728/10002/-1?CT=999 And i'm pretty sure you can use vw diesel (fairly big and strong) oil filters with that one. I lost an engine from a PH8A's internal tube collapsing. I'd say to stay away from fram if you do a filter.
I do wish you luck on getting it done in time. Maybe you can learn to sleep half of your brain at a time like a dolphin and get it done. I'd give you a hand if you were semi local too.
That's a lot of freaking oil... does that engine run some sort of blend like a sea-doo where it drips oil into the gas as you run or is that just it designed flaw like an rx-7 where it purposely burn oil to lube the seals. Either way I now think I know why my brother (team Cpt., Serj on the forums) was asking if I could bring all the oil over-flow from work. If your target is Gingerman to race I'll try to keep ya in mind and bring what I can, if I remember.
That's a lot of freaking oil... does that engine run some sort of blend like a sea-doo where it drips oil into the gas as you run or is that just it designed flaw like an rx-7 where it purposely burn oil to lube the seals. Either way I now think I know why my brother (team Cpt., Serj on the forums) was asking if I could bring all the oil over-flow from work. If your target is Gingerman to race I'll try to keep ya in mind and bring what I can, if I remember.
It's not supposed to burn it, it just has crappy rings and valve seals. the engine was designed in 1936
i also suspect quite a bit just leaked out. there were many interfaces on this motor that weren't sealed. i tried to address them, oil leaks should be minimized.
I lost an engine from a PH8A's internal tube collapsing. I'd say to stay away from fram if you do a filter.
Fram is a four letter word for a reason. They suck.
Marc, I wish I could help. I really do.
It's not supposed to burn it, it just has crappy rings and valve seals. the engine was designed in 1936
i also suspect quite a bit just leaked out. there were many interfaces on this motor that weren't sealed. i tried to address them, oil leaks should be minimized.
Even more modern radial engines burn a lot of oil because oil pools in the upside-down cylinders.
Which brings up the question: on radial aircraft before starting you're supposed to manually pull the propeller through a couple of rotations to check that the bottom cylinders aren't hydro-locked from the oil pooling.
Do you have any easy way to do that? Or just say a prayer to the bent connecting rod god?
The 24 Hours of Lemons Forums → The Airplane-Powered MR2 → Never before has so little power been made from so much displacement!