Never before has so little power been made from so much displacement! (Page 20 of 57)

Good Catch! Its bent rod city if it hydros... easy answer (that kinda stinks, but gotta do it anyway) is just before the first session, and each first run of the day, pull the lower couple plugs and crank it with the ignition off to dump any accumulated oil.. then you are good to go.

Damn.  I hope you're buying oil by the drum, or at least in 5 gal buckets.

oh, forgot to post tonight's update.

1) installed all of the injector tops that Aaron made for me.
2) ordered all the fittings for the fuel system
3) ordered the diesel superduty fan blade

and then the fun started. i went to install the missing seal for the angry hamster box and i discovered that the seal diameter wasn't machined right so i had to go to the machine shop and make it bigger. thankfully it needed to be bigger, not smaller.

damnit...

fixed:

after that was fixed, i can assemble the box for the last time:

here you can see it with the flywheel and bellhousing adapter mounted:

the flywheel is from my wife's '08 wrx that i upgraded to a lightweight flywheel. i just had to add 9 extra holes for the bolts and dowel pins.

and that's when I figured the next issue for the night. the shop sold me the wrong clutch disk. it has the wrong spline for the transmission.  AAAARRRRGGGG!

so i called it a night. i'll hit up fort wayne clutch tomorrow and see about getting a different disk.

Rampant speculation follows:

Engine is rated at 1850RPM in paranoid airplane-safety rating mode. Lets be generous and assume final tune tops out at 2100RPM - so 2100RPM on the big sprocket.

Going back to the post where some chain and a bigass sprocket arrived in the mail (Page 14) it appears to be a 60-link chain and a 52-tooth sprocket. So that's a total of 2423 chain RPMs. At rated speed only, it's 2134RPM.  That sounds reasonable to me, but I know nothing about chain drives.

Chain width is the size of a nickel - about 21mm.

THIS is gonna be fun. Key is limiting scope, Megasquirt offers so much cool $hit that you'll be tempted to install that you'll never finish it. I always struggle when trying to mentally forbid myself to add crap. I mean, how could one say no to second baro sensor,  timed injection, PWM idle air control, closed loop idle, multispark, digital boost control... Next thing you know, you have an engine from 1982 that's riding the bleeding edge of technology and takes you years to finish. Grr.

thankfully time won't let me do that.

i'm wiring the following:
-injectors
-coils
-crank & cam sensor
-tps
-map (though i may not use it)

idle will be set with a screw, warmup may require someone playing with the throttle for 2-3 minutes till she can idle.

and that's it. i'm not bothering with an O2 sensor or air temp sensors. i'm just going to shoot for a 13:1 mixture across the board other than very low throttle positions and even then i'll leave it in the slightly fat 14:1 or so.

i will likely explore all the features eventually, just not for this race

I see no problem with your tuning or megasquirt plans.  13.0:1 across the board should be fine as long as the plugs can get up to cleaning temp, especially with it burning all that oil.  Leaning the a/f ratio to 14.0+ at idle could help keep the plugs clean though (like you mentioned.)  If the warmup settings are close it should idle cold about 3/4 to 4/5th of the warm idle rpm without any idle helpers.  Sequential injection helps too.  If its a super low compression engine designed for 73 octane im not sure you could make it knock with good gas and 50' timing.  This is what im used to on gas/piston car engines anyways.

  If the throttle bodies prove to be almost impossible to sync or be consistent over the throttle swing you may want to richen it to 12.5 at 80%+ throttle just in case the leaner cylinder is off by quite a bit.  The almost closed throttle and closed throttle areas of the map may need to be set a bit rich if the itb's arent closing evenly when synced at part throttle.  ITB's can be a royal pita.

What are you using to read a/f when you tune?  One per runner?

The map signal will probably be very bouncy with a big and slow engine.  You could try different size mig welding tips in the vacuum lines before they merge to slow/smooth the vacuum signal from each cylinder.  I think TPS is the way to go for this as long as there is a good solid way to lock down the throttle rod adjustment on the itb with the tps sensor and not touch that one after its tuned.  Adjust the other cylinders throttle linkages if it goes out of sync.

the throttle bodies already have a separate tap for the map signal that is designed to be merged together for the fuel regulator and the MAP sensor. there's a different port for the brakes so i should be all good.

for tuning i'll hook up an O2 sensor to the top port only and then use a temperature gun across all heads to make sure they are reasonably close.

if i have issues with injector cleaning i can probably hook up the engine temp sensor to a potentiometer and make it so the driver can adjust the mixture +/- .5 each way from inside the cab. if it starts stumbling from fouled plugs just turn a bit counterclockwise until it clears up. but i'm not sure if my other drivers know what rich stumbling feels/sounds like.

the other thing to keep in mind is that E85 is happier at a MUCH wider A/F ratio. i think my throttle plates are all balanced well but E85 and fattened a bit more would ensure a good burn.

'll know a whole lot more about making megasquirt happy in a week or two

yeah, MS3 with the expansion board.

oh, thanks for the note on the MAP sensor, i was planning on using it.

are you talking about the air temp or engine temp? air temp is a bit tricky, i have 5 intake manifolds. i could use outside temp i guess. I'll pick up a different map sensor.

alright, it took 2 days, but i finally have all the clutch stuff figured out.

continuing the other day's assembly:

1993 awd clutch disk:

2002 2.5L N/A impreza pressure plate:

and the tricky part:

top left is some random throw out bearing that i found at the parts store
right is the 1993 2wd impreza throw out bearing carrier minus the bearing
bottom left is the custom stepped ring i made

just spread the ring over the step on the retainer

slip the different release bearing over it:

and then roll the edge over the bearing to hold it all together:

I then reinstalled it all in the car and it looks like the clutch has a wide enough bearing to engage the pressure plate fingers and also the fork has enough travel to fully disengage the clutch. it's a bit further at the end of the travel than i'd like but it's good enough! if i have to take it back apart i'll throw in a 75thou thick spacer between the flywheel and the "crank".

all the parts for the fuel rail should be here tomorrow, i'll get started on it tomorrow evening.

(as a side note, the web-server issues are resolved so expect posts to be picture heavy again. everyone likes pictures!)