Re: Never before has so little power been made from so much displacement!
So what you're saying is that the world's shortest possible driveshaft (that can still be called a driveshaft) is too long?
Team FinalGear
The 24 Hours of Lemons Forums → The Airplane-Powered MR2 → Never before has so little power been made from so much displacement!
So what you're saying is that the world's shortest possible driveshaft (that can still be called a driveshaft) is too long?
So what you're saying is that the world's shortest possible driveshaft (that can still be called a driveshaft) is too long?
No, no, no. The engine is too low...
This should find a way onto the front page of every automotive enthusiast webpage, journal, blog, magazine, throw-away, catalog, flyer....
just getting it running caused a ripple through the internet. jalopnik caused a massive wave of traffic to me videos. a running on the track video will surely have wildfire qualities.
i cant wait
What could possibly go wrong!
we've been through that list already about 20 pages ago. it's a long list, a very long list and i suppose it can probably double in size now that i see it in the flesh.
So what you're saying is that the world's shortest possible driveshaft (that can still be called a driveshaft) is too long?
yeah, i'll have to cut it down to about 6.5" or so. i think it qualifies as a driveshaft it's got a pivot in both directions
No, no, no. The engine is too low...
the engine is about 3" above the roof line, it's not too low of course, the bottom valve covers are only 5" off the ground. so maybe it is. or maybe it's just a stupid idea to put a round engine in a car. ... NAH, that's the right thing to do
Thanks for all the encouragement guys. I'm having fun making this stuff.
the engine is about 3" above the roof line, it's not too low of course, the bottom valve covers are only 5" off the ground. so maybe it is. or maybe it's just a stupid idea to put a round engine in a car. ... NAH, that's the right thing to do
Thanks for all the encouragement guys. I'm having fun making this stuff.
Yes, it is absolutely the right thing to do! I've got non-LeMons friends following this thread, and we are all excited about it finally getting on the track. It will be an epic event! The way you solve problems is an inspiration to us all.
All that misfit toy stuff spinning in every imaginable direction makes my nether regions pucker. And I mean that in the most complimentary Lemons way possible.
All that misfit toy stuff spinning in every imaginable direction makes my nether regions pucker. And I mean that in the most complimentary Lemons way possible.
i know what you mean, i've sat in garage just listening to the mechanical whirr and the sound of 540cubic inches idling and i admit, i've been rather turned on.
anyways, i don't have much time to spend in the shop tonight. i have to get up early tomorrow morning to get an MRI for my shoulder. (for those that missed the other thread, i think i partially tore a tendon at the last race)
but i did get the drive shaft as well as the bracket cut down.
the driveshaft angle is not perfect, but it's good enough to run. it's about 12 degrees, not because the misalignment is high, but because it's so short.
but it's only spinning at 1600RPMs max which is about 40-50mph in most stock vehicles. nothing to worry about, it'll happily take that angle all day long
and here's the cut down bracket (that top plate isn't welded)
i need to get some hardware as my selection here ends at 5.5" for 1/2" bolts and these will need to be about 7" long. i also need spacer tubes.
it'll probably be Wednesday evening before i have time to work on this again.
the stock vent was sealed by hammering a ballbearing in it. it's cheap and quick
It's all ball bearings nowadays. Now you prepare that Fetzer valve with some 3-in-1 oil and some gauze pads, and I'm gonna need 'bout ten quarts of anti-freeze, preferably Prestone. No, no make that Quaker State.
Marc wrote:the stock vent was sealed by hammering a ballbearing in it. it's cheap and quick
It's all ball bearings nowadays. Now you prepare that Fetzer valve with some 3-in-1 oil and some gauze pads, and I'm gonna need 'bout ten quarts of anti-freeze, preferably Prestone. No, no make that Quaker State.
Wha'cha doing up ther, some stunt flyin?
figured i'd make today's update a video update.
no, it's not moving under it's own power, but everything looks good
alright i could not leave it at that. i went out and spent a few more hours zipping up loose ends.
current todo list:
-charge battery
-add vent hose to 3000gt box. add nipple and hose to whatever the heck that adapter is called (between goldwing and clutch)
-fix vent on front oil tank to not dump oil out on right turns.
-finish welding new strut bar
-redo oil lines with something that is actually oil safe
-fix tach
-new CHT gauge
-tune it?
-fix rear window on MR2 does anyone have a stock MKII rear window for sale?
-race the heck out of it!
I'll stop by the hardware store tomorrow and get the vent nipple. but i won't be able to move it tomorrow because i have other plans during the hours that it's considered acceptable to run an airplane engine in a subdivision.
here's a picture of where we are at now:
-fix rear window on MR2 does anyone have a stock MKII rear window for sale?
No, but I'd recommend 1/4" Lexan anyway. The glass will shatter if something lets loose coming back at you, but Lexan won't. Might crack, but it won't shatter. IMHO.
...during the hours that it's not considered completely unacceptable to run an airplane engine in a subdivision
FTFY.
Careful. You don't want Gladys Sharp after you.
I'm actually on the subdivision board. that's why i could not work on this last tuesday, i had to hear someone complain about their fence panel being disconnected and needing a "professional" to come sink 3 nails. it really amazes me how useless some people are.
i need to move
someone sent me the missing tip on the tach issue. apparently megasquirt needs a pull up for the tach. that's an easy fix!
I call "unfair psychological advantage" with this project.
If I come up behind this car on the track, I'll have serious seconds about passing because:
1) I would be anxiously waiting (read: filming) for some catastrophic failure to occur
2) There is a legitimate fear of having this thing wailing away just a few feet to either side as the pass is made
...well played, well played indeed.
Joking aside, I look forward to seeing it in action.
I call "unfair psychological advantage" with this project.
If I come up behind this car on the track, I'll have serious seconds about passing because:
1) I would be anxiously waiting (read: filming) for some catastrophic failure to occur
2) There is a legitimate fear of having this thing wailing away just a few feet to either side as the pass is made
...well played, well played indeed.
Joking aside, I look forward to seeing it in action.
don't worry about filming it. Phil is putting a go-pro pointed at the action to catch when it goes.
also, if anyone else wants to do that to get different angles, they are welcome to. the only thing i ask in exchange is a copy of the footage.
as for the potential explosion, it should be contained by the car's sheetmetal. i don't really expect anything major to go, it'll be something stupid that lets go.
i don't really expect anything major to go, it'll be something stupid that lets go.
A simple nitrous oxide fogger kit will take care of that right-n-good!
oops, i just went in the shop to stare at it before i head back out. the 3000GT box needs to come back out, it looks like i forgot to seal one of the surfaces. it has since dumped all of it's oil.
no biggie, just one more item on the list.
i also found out today where i can get lexan in town. hopefully i can get it tomorrow.
The phrase "First world problems" comes to mind...
Glad you're having those kinds!
well, test #1 went reasonably well. i started it up with all the stuff connected and nothing blew up! somewhat impressive considering it's driving that super heavy subi flywheel up to speed through that system. it's not a no-load situation.
you can see it here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qe5A4kt04Dc
it's cold so you can see the lack of bottom cylinder ignition shaking the entire car.
what it did show is that my transmission mounts aren't strong enough in the direction that the torque is applied. the whole thing shakes a bit more than i'm comfortable with and probably stresses the tiny driveshaft a bit too much. I'll add a front mount neat the goldwing box and we should be good to go. I'll get it done today and test again after that.
WOO!!!!!
current todo list:
-fix vent on front oil tank to not dump oil out on right turns.
-finish welding new strut bar
-redo oil lines with something that is actually oil safe
-fix tach (missing weak 12V pullup)
-new CHT gauge
-tune it?
-make rear window out of 1/4" lexan (may involve swearing)
-race the heck out of it!
on further review, i'm DAMN glad that the scatter shield was there. the *TING* you hear when the motor first fires up is the power causing the transmission to shift to the side and the driveshaft starting to bind. thankfully the scatter shield is close enough that it kept everything aligned enough to not fly apart.
a simple bracket will fix everything right up. working on it right now.
Glad it's going again! You might want to hang one of these under the rear bumper:
fantastic. Just amazingly fantastic.
inside of the scatter shield:
and here's what happened:
i had only partially welded the bottom yoke on the driveshaft. oops.
I had only partially welded the bottom yoke on the driveshaft. oops.
It's hard for me to tell, but I hope you didn't weld a hardened part. You probably already know this, but that is a sure path to failure. I learned the hard way that a weld, or even a nick from a grinder, creates a stress riser that leads to a really fast fail. I was shocked to see how fast a modified 1" shaft would break, while a virgin one would last almost forever.
The 24 Hours of Lemons Forums → The Airplane-Powered MR2 → Never before has so little power been made from so much displacement!