Never before has so little power been made from so much displacement! (Page 51 of 57)

Marc, you are a true inspiration to us all. No matter how many things go wrong, expensive parts break, or curve balls Mr. Murphy throws at you, you never give up and keep marching forward. You always find a way to make it work and I wish there were more people like you in the world.

Yeah, but the rest of us had so much fun telling all our friends about it!   

Likewise with the Super Snipe!   But my engine is only from the same manufacturer as the famous Hawker Siddelay aircraft engines.   Your engine puts mine to shame.

That's the bar that Phil set last time. he said 20 laps and it's an IOE contender (not a guaranteed win)

well, i got the issue fixed and added a bracket to prevent it happening again.

it's not meant to carry any vertical load, just horizontal that's why it looks the way it does.

I ran it like that for a few minutes and it's smooth. reved it up and down without issue so i think it's time to try the 2nd voyage. I'm nervous as hell here.

Makes my mess of broken engines look like a walk in the park.
Wish I could be at Autobahn to see this machine in action.

knocking stuff down on the todo list and i go to order the CHT gauge http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DAK-ODYR11-1/

and it looks like it won't ship till after the race.

anyone know someone that has this thing in stock? (or any other CHT gauge that goes to 600F?)

*edit* heck, the CHT is something that either will or won't be a problem. the new setup does not vibrate nearly as bad so i bet if i just get off the accelerator every once in a while i should be able to get a decent reading. i don't care what the temp is, just that it's below 600F and i haven't seen the motor run about 300F yet so i should be good.

that's exactly what i thought i needed so that's what's currently on the vehicle. the problem is the gauge shakes with the car.

apparently this thing has a bit more shake to it than your average v-dub.

www.aircraftspruce.com have a ton of cylinder head temperature gauges. I couldn't find the exact digital model you were looking for, but they are worth a look.

Example: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/i … GT_CHT.php

this project is driving me insane.

i got a bunch of items off the todo list, down to the following:

-tune it
-remove pass seat
-add petty bar
-redo oil lines with something that is actually oil safe (new lines ordered)
-make rear window out of 1/4" lexan (may involve swearing) (can pickup on tuesday)

just as i got the tach working i turn off the engine and i hear the sound of a bunch of oil coming out.

damnit.

but further investigation led me to see that it wasn't that bad:

so I'm off to the shop to go fix the shaft. I'll stop being concerned about that glide coat and get the shaft to the proper temperature this time.

I'm sitting here wondering why i did not just put a driveshaft with two high angle double cardan joints on it instead of the 3000GT box. 22.5degrees on each u-joint is high but not ridiculous at 2000RPMs. it would have worked just fine.

probably because i thought the rotation direction needed to be the other way around at the time.

i would need a new goldwing box since i kinda made the current one a bit permanently mounted to that short driveshaft.

kinda like a bunch of these: http://www.driveshaftsuperstore.com/bad … shafts.htm

maybe i should bite the bullet and do it.
-new goldwing box (cheap)
-driveshaft components (probably $350 or so)
-adapter to go from both flanges to driveshaft flanges. (time only)
-new driveshaft safety catcher thingie (mostly time and scrap steel)

the goldwing box would stay for sure. there's no way around that.

frankly there's nothing difficult about building that driveshaft. maybe i should just fix what i have and bring the parts to make that driveshaft if the 3000gt box fails.

you guys are just sadistic

Um. Why do you think we do Lemons?! But yes, some are way way more into pain than others.