The 24 Hours of Lemons Forums → Lemons Tech → Tyrell 6-wheeler
I'm trying, but you guys aren't using stock suspension. We are. I don't have the fab skills or the general automotive knowledge to know how to graft RX 7 stuff or any other stuff into a mini. I've got a hard enough time wrapping my head around mini stuff.
I've tried to stretch the rear swingarms 3"to make something bigger fit, but am realizing I shoulda made a jig or something-- eyeballing it wasn't quite good enough and the alignment is now pretty interesting.
My kingdom for 13" options other than... having tires shipped from Japan/Europe....
Best wishes on that search. Tire selection in 13" is dwindling worldwide to just a few of the most common sizes, regardless of rating. I've given up trying to find 165/65R13 tires for my MG Metro-- a few places list them but then say they're "out of stock with no resupply date" when asked. No other available size fits without rubbing. I just paid another enthusiast to ship me a set of used 12" Metro wheels from Malta [Of course. Where else would one get British car parts?] to get around this problem. Tires for those are comparatively easy to find.
And if you can find me some DOT Hoosiers I'd be in HEAVEN and would buy 100 sets!
Hoosier A6/R6 - DOT rated, street legal
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp … reModel=R6
Please post your receipt. Looking forward to seeing it.
Spank wrote:And if you can find me some DOT Hoosiers I'd be in HEAVEN and would buy 100 sets!
Hoosier A6/R6 - DOT rated, street legal
http://www.tirerack.com/images/tires/ho … _ci2_l.jpghttp://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp … reModel=R6
Please post your receipt. Looking forward to seeing it.
Since the discussion was related to 10" wheels, and what I wrote was in response to a quote about 10" Hoosier DOT tires, I was referring to 10" Hoosier tires. Sorry that wasn't clear. No receipt. yet. But if you find them, please clue me in. Bonus if they are 190 minimum treadwear.
personally, if someone managed to replicate a Tyrrell, i wouldn't give a rat's ass what tires they needed to use, b/c:
A) it's going to be crazy slow;
B) it's going to fail in some spectacular fashion; and
C) duh--6-wheels. awesome.
DaveH wrote:Spank wrote:And if you can find me some DOT Hoosiers I'd be in HEAVEN and would buy 100 sets!
Hoosier A6/R6 - DOT rated, street legal
http://www.tirerack.com/images/tires/ho … _ci2_l.jpghttp://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp … reModel=R6
Please post your receipt. Looking forward to seeing it.
Since the discussion was related to 10" wheels, and what I wrote was in response to a quote about 10" Hoosier DOT tires, I was referring to 10" Hoosier tires. Sorry that wasn't clear. No receipt. yet. But if you find them, please clue me in. Bonus if they are 190 minimum treadwear.
Yeah, missed that nuance. I guess reading the whole thread is important, huh?
TheHeckler wrote:Hoosier makes a few DOT 10" tires...
Or you can go this route 205/65-10 http://www.kendatires.com/205_65_10.html Wheels and DOT tires mounted and balanced for about $400 bucks, even with cool color accents. Go with Blue, both because it's a ford and because that was Tyrell's color.
Those golf cart tires are hella-squirrley and nobody who knows better runs them on a vehicle that will exceed 40mph. They are DOT rated so that old folks can legally drive their golf cars on the roads in their communities, not because they are safe to use on passenger vehicles.
...snip..
I actually do know that, it was a bit tongue in cheek.
I bought one of the free electric car golf carts and it has DOT legal tires and everything.
It is the scariest thing I've ever driven on the street but a huge part of that is the idiotic steering and front suspension design it has bump steer, roll steer and dynamic feedback in the wrong direction so it will go into oscillation. I have already rotated the front axle 5 degrees to increase caster which helped a bit but it is still scary.
If it wasn't effectively free I would have never bought one if I drove it first. Still is great to have in the paddock and it's fun to go bar hopping in.
I don't have the fab skills or the general automotive knowledge to know how to graft RX 7 stuff or any other stuff into a mini.
Use a 2nd gen front subframe setup. It's rack & pinion, McPherson strut, has better brakes, there are stock 5-bolt hubs for it, and it's all on a subframe. Weld a mounting frame with four studs and fab the strut tops and you're set.
here's the front suspension setup from the tyrell
actual picture
Something's not right there. From the photo it looks like the steering column connects to the center of the front steering arm/torsion bar, but the diagram shows is hooking up behind the rear left one. Unless that cylinder and tube on the left rear is some kind of power assist that's not directly connected to the rack?
That diagram does look different from the setup in the picture, but, it does look feasible. It looks like the steering knuckles in the photo shows them both on the inside of the suspension arms, whereas the diagram shows them both on the front of the suspension arms.
I've also considered the possibility of using 2 separate steering racks, and using chain & sprockets to connect them, so that I could change the steering ratio on the front rack by simply trying different size sprockets. Thinking about making a mock up suspension out of wood, so I can experiment before I actually chop some cars up so I can get a blueprint of what I need to do. Thanks for posting the diagram, though. The gears are spinning now! The guys at Pratt & Miller won't have anything to compare to this monstrosity! I'm still torn between using 14 inch wheels on the front, or trying to make some little bitty roller skate 10 inch wheels work. The 14s might be easier, but I'd really like that Tyrell look just because!
If I had a vote, I'd definitely go with the 10-inch tires. Not only for the look but it would be easier to control with lighter equipment up front. Although it could be hard to find brakes for that...
That is a trick swaybar setup.
It looks like there is a second tie rod behind each front wheel. I'm guessing the rack pushes the front tie rods, then the rear tie rods steer the rear set of wheels through a linkage. You could easily set that up to have adjustable toe gain if you make the length of the pivot arm on the rear linkage adjustable.
Also very interesting, your bump caster is opposite on the two wheels, while bump steer essentially cancels out for the rear set. It looks like they made SAI and scrub radius the same for both sets to simplify things. I wonder what someone could do with modern simulation software for a setup like that?
My crazy idea was the opposite, take two FWD cars, auotmatics, something like a minivan with lots of room - cut hole in rear floor stick the second engine/transaxle up through there and weld supports in. Affix the steering straight, and voila! You have a fail-safe dual engine car, if one fails you continue on the other. should be pretty fast and what could go wrong?
The 24 Hours of Lemons Forums → Lemons Tech → Tyrell 6-wheeler
