Re: Tips for lowering CG and the whole car...

Find the stock rate on your springs, it is probably way soft for race use.  I'd go 2-2.5x the stock rate and lower it as far as you can without ruining your geometry.  Once you find the rate, length and ID or OD of your springs go to a spring catalog for Moog or one of the other suppliers and find an 80's car that has springs close to what you want.  Then a quick visit to a junkyard and you have your springs.  That's how we got the springs under the Lincoln so that it finally turns instead of just sliding arou8nd like a drift car.

Or you can check with the used race car suppliers, they have springs for cheap ( $10 - $15 bucks ) and they are measured for rate already.

If you are already re-welding your suspension pickups, you could move the pickups up to lower the body while keeping decent geometry.  Watch for changing the steering linkage angles

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Re: Tips for lowering CG and the whole car...

solman244 wrote:
Junkyard Dog wrote:

Well, maybe some flat black paint then spray everything with used motor oil and go cut donuts in a field. big_smile

Remind me not to go through BS with you.  Paint?  Motor oil? Dirt?  I have NO idea what ya'll are talking about.  Those KYBs came WITH the car.

Ooohhh.... I was nearby at CMP a few years ago when a bunch of Spec Miata guys tried to railroad some Bilsteins through the BS judging. The team captain started arguing with the judges. That was uggy.

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Re: Tips for lowering CG and the whole car...

sergio wrote:

Have you had to change the starter on it yet? Not a fun job.

Thanks to removed power steering and EGR, relocated battery, and a seriously minimized intake ducting, it is now a 10-minute breeze.

It's amazing how much cleaner an engine bay becomes when you take out all that unnecessary equipment. Replacing alternator/water pump belt became a breeze (no wonder PO never changed that belt).

The snowball effect is ridiculous on this car. For example, now that the front end is so light, we no longer need power steering, which makes the front end even lighter still. There's a crap-load of brackets holding brackets, so once you remove/relocate some wires, you can remove sizable chunks of metal that just hang there on a bolt or two.

Regarding suspension level, all I want now is to get it down to stock height. The half-shafts are at a nice 25 degree angle at the moment; I need at least a 3-inch drop just to get them somewhat parallel to the ground.

K Car Stalker

54

Re: Tips for lowering CG and the whole car...

The cage should add a decent amount of weight back into the car so you may want to wait until its in to really figure out how much you need to lower it to get back to stock.

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Re: Tips for lowering CG and the whole car...

The cage is already in. And the belts, battery, extinguisher, and the heavy stock seat. And we still need to do some stripping and redo the exhuast; I'd estimate we can have another 50 or so pounds removed.

With a person in the driver's seat the car sits ~3 inches taller than what it was when it was stock, boat on the roof and two people in the car.

K Car Stalker

Re: Tips for lowering CG and the whole car...

that's a really damn heavy interior? cut the springs down until you have ONE coil left so it's not on the bump stops lol

Re: Tips for lowering CG and the whole car...

The back seat weighs about as much as an average person - it's a nearly free-standing assembly made of very, very heavy metal. We took out roughly 100lbs worth of carpet, sound deadening, and interior bolts. Then there's console, dash, brackets, passenger seat, interior paneling, brackets, back glass (the front side glass is not out yet), AC, PS, various unnecessary brackets, useless comfort equipment (30lb blower fan assembly?), extra wiring, brackets, gas/trunk cables, brackets, condenser fan, brackets, cast-effin-iron AC mounting bracket and brackets. I'm pretty sure I missed something big, like brackets, but you get the idea.

The base crank-your-own Stanza wagon with no center console, audio, or AC (but with PS) is supposed to be under 2300lb. If ours is still above 2000lb I'm gonna go drink myself into a coma.

K Car Stalker

Re: Tips for lowering CG and the whole car...

Idunno what you're going to do in the back with that torsion spring, but in the front, you could get fancy with the welder and raise the upper strut mount an inch or two rather than cutting your springs into oblivion.  You'll probably want to build some camber adjustment into those mounts, anyway.

Lemons South 2008 - Fail, Lemons South Spring 2009 - Fail, Lemons Detroit(ish) 2008 - Fail, Lemons South Fall 2009 - Fail, Lamest Day 2009 - Fail, Miami 2010 (Chump) - 2nd!, Sebring 2010 (Chump) - Fail, Cuba 2010 - Crew Chief, Roebling 2011 (Chump) - 8th!, Sebring 2011(Chump) - 19th!

Re: Tips for lowering CG and the whole car...

Removing my chintzy plastic interior, tar panels, and every single thing I could unbolt off the car (fender liners, heat shields, parking brak, etc) got my 1875lb car down to 1550lbs wet w/cage. Just break up dry-ice and set it on the tar sheets and they break off clean from the metal.

I haven't even begun to cut holes in things, removing wiring harness sections, or remove the dash cover. I did scrape most of the undercoating off, but that is a totally awful job and I don't recommend it even slightly.

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1989 Daihatsu Charade

Re: Tips for lowering CG and the whole car...

I did my tar sheets in 20f weather using a sawzall with a metal spatula-looking tip. Frozen 25-year-old tar comes off pretty easy in that case.

K Car Stalker

Re: Tips for lowering CG and the whole car...

firegremlin wrote:

I did my tar sheets in 20f weather using a sawzall with a metal spatula-looking tip. Frozen 25-year-old tar comes off pretty easy in that case.

I've never seen such a tip/blade for a Sawzall.   Where did you find it?   Or, more to the point, where can I get one?

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Re: Tips for lowering CG and the whole car...

I've got a 2" chisel tip for my air hammer, but I, too, have never seen such a thing for a Sawzall. Please post a link!

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Re: Tips for lowering CG and the whole car...

CowDriver wrote:
firegremlin wrote:

I did my tar sheets in 20f weather using a sawzall with a metal spatula-looking tip. Frozen 25-year-old tar comes off pretty easy in that case.

I've never seen such a tip/blade for a Sawzall.   Where did you find it?   Or, more to the point, where can I get one?

Mine came with the blade kit (which came with the saw, I think, unless I got it separately for some reason). I got it at Home depot.

Here's the manufacturer's link:

http://www.milwaukeetool.com/accessorie … 49-00-5463

They also have a 3-inch wide blade, but mine is the 1.5 one. Works great and stays somewhat sharp even after repeatedly hammering it into brackets and bolt heads. The key is going slow, at fast speeds it becomes useless.

K Car Stalker

Re: Tips for lowering CG and the whole car...

firegremlin wrote:

Here's the manufacturer's link:

http://www.milwaukeetool.com/accessorie … 49-00-5463

They also have a 3-inch wide blade, but mine is the 1.5 one. Works great and stays somewhat sharp even after repeatedly hammering it into brackets and bolt heads. The key is going slow, at fast speeds it becomes useless.

Thanks!   I got the complete (I guess not) kit, including the metal case, but it didn't come with a scraper.   Now that I know it exists (and have the part number) it should be a cinch to buy a couple.

"I don't suffer from insanity, I enjoy every minute of it!"
IOE winner in the Super Snipe -- Buttonwillow 2012
IOE winner in Super Snipe v2.0 -- Buttonwillow 2016
"Every Super Snipe in Lemons has won an IOE!"