Got the Go-ahead from HQ for my IoE idea (Page 5 of 10)

I thought fairlady's were right hand drive?? A buddy of my brother had a 1600 that hauled ass!! and then there were the 2000's

Ok, no more teasing. Tomorrow night I will show you the donor motor.

just kidding!  I'd love to have that fairlady!  so cool!  do you know its racing history?

Is it framed or unibody (and, much rust?)?

I know you're working on something else, but it would be a really cool runner w/ a 302!

I'm assuming you've done some research already (so this is for everyone else) that I am now just learning about the car...

"The roadsters, especially the 1600 and 2000, became regular winners on the SCCA circuit, winning 10 national SCCA championships in the late 60's".

Bob is full of win!

as promised, here is the motor for the Fairlady:
11.5 kW of 36v DC Electric power!
That is right, it will be an electric LeMon, but first it must pass NEDRA tech, because evil geniuses are smart enough not to play will high amounts of electricity.

Do you have a speed controller that will do 11.5kw at 36v? 

Battery trays with quick disconnects?

I admire you for doing this im just baffled trying to think how many batteries you are gonna need to do this over 2 days.

Any plans for an onboard generator as backup charge/drive power?

15 horsepower.  Ouch.

15 hp in a electric motor is different from 15 hp in a gasoline motor.  If you run the motor at the recommended voltage, that maximum power is made all the way across the rev range, so the amount of torque available is huge.  Torque is related to amperage, and motors generally have a maximum amperage rating.  You can raise the output power by raising the voltage, but you still get gobs of torque at 0 RPM.  That's why NEDRA (National? Electric Drag Racing Association) has cars running 11's at 100 mph.

That being said, are you bumping the voltage up?  Electric motors make torque proportional to amperage, and the max RPM is related to voltage.  You generally have to limit the amperage output at low RPMs (the controller does this by essentially limiting voltage), but by raising the voltage it allows you to maintain that maximum torque level to much higher speeds.  With enough voltage you pretty much get a flat torque curve nearly all the way through the rev range.  The failure mechanism when you do that is generally going to be burnt out brushes.  I'd replace those before you stick it in the car.

On the other hand, if you don't control the amperage, the failure mechanism is generally melted motor windings.  Speaking of which, what controller are you using?

How are you going to "refuel"?  Swappable battery packs?  One on the charger and one in the car?

John, this is really cool!

Can this be endurance raced?  I imagine you're going to have to build 'swappable' battery packs, no?  I'm wondering - for starters - just how much battery you can fit under a Fairlady (all jokes aside).  I'm thinking you might be able to post the fastest lap every hour, but only at one lap an hour.  :-(

seems like you'll need at least 100-120HP to make this car move resonably well.

let's assume that you throw in 150% of the rated current in there. currently it sees 320amps. that would mean putting 480 amps across the motor.

to reach 100HP with a 480amp motor you need 155volts.

well, i guess that's not completely unreasonable. as far as the power capacity of the motor goes. 144 and 208volt packs are common in electric vehicles from what i understand.

what i don't get is how you're planning on refueling. unless we're talking about a series hybrid with a 2-3 cylinder 25-35hp diesel motor or something of the sort.

30mph? The tow truck laps quicker than that! On the plus side, you'll have really, really good brake lifetimes.