Keep it a 2.2 4-pot?... (Page 2 of 4)

I'm interested for Buttonwillow. I wouldn't be able to get to the track until Friday evening - I'm returning from a business trip that day - but I could work on the car in SoCal on the weekend of June 22 if necessary. I know Mopar stuff pretty well and have tools/service manuals. I have many laps in at Buttonwillow in my team's neon.

I submitted my request for Sophie... Check your email. Sophie sez *"Obi-wan you're my only hope!"*

too late. watching brandon's and steven's facebook posts,  the 4 pot is out and the donor 6 is well on its way to being in.

Gah. That old timing belt must feel like at home in there, keep it in. Live dangerously, enjoy every moment.

That's usually what happens when I see what boost can do...

-=Tom

Wellll - the donor motor came out of Frank the Tank's old Lemons Whip.   

That team is kinda girly. 

So power steering no, but idle air control and O2 sensors yes....

Oh, hell yeah. I have plenty of muscle to turn tough steering wheels (I daily-drive an LT1 Roadmaster with an unboosted 2.5 ratio Impala SS steering box), but I can't telepathically convince the computer to adjust fuel mixture on the highway. Nor can I convince it to adjust idle according to outside air temperature, elevation, and engine temperature, all of which will vary a LOT during my drive over the Rockies, for example.

Besides, contrary to popular belief, driveability aids like o2 sensors and IAC help A LOT on the track. I'm never ripping mine out ever again. You spend a lot of time idling or cruising along, surprisingly (like, braking, yellows, sitting in a cloud of dust after a spinout, etc).

A working 02 sensor will keep the ECU from running pig-rich. This saves you some gas, but more importantly it'll keep said gas out of your oil. Gas in oil = higher chance of engine block becoming a cupholder.

Finally, a non-working IAC coupled with a loose battery clamp or any other problem that'd prevent you from restarting after a stall can mean a difference between driving in for a black flag after a crash/spinout, and getting towed in.

I know everyone likes the simplicity and the appeal of rough-running "race motor" that has nothing but bare essentials, but you're not really gaining any significant advantages in terms of clutter control, and the disadvantages are plenty.

Damn, I sound like my mother.

Sounds like someone needs a turbo for dem mountains. 

How do you change the needle valve in an IAC?  Can I get a rebuild kit for that ECU?

^^^ Try 12 GPH in the FD. 

properly sorted power steering only comes in handy in parking lots. once the car has any useful speed, assist just makes the steering feel sloppy.

and, because someone always responds with the fact that "major league race cars (notably f1) have power steering" when i make the above comment online....

F1 cars have power steering. they also have gumballs for tires, aero that causes the car to weigh twice as much at speed, and a steering ratio of about 1 turn lock to lock. when my "race car" with its 200 treadwear tires and 3.5+ turns lock to lock, starts doubling its weight at 50 mph...i'll consider putting power steering back in it.

Only when running one of those weird, non-two-stroke engines.