Topic: Failure point of Sawzall convertibles?

Of all the car nutjobs on the internet, this seems the most likely gathering to get a decent answer to a question that's been bugging me for too long.

Back in January, I bought a convertible. A 1992 Chrysler LeBaron, to be exact. It's the first convertible I've ever owned, and it's been a ton of fun so far.

There are a lot of rattles, squeaks, etc. The body twists a bit. The convertible top leaks at the edges, and more water gets in than I think reasonably should.

Not that any of this bothers me too much - for the amount of money I have into it, I can't complain.

It's started me thinking about Sawzall convertibles - "convertibles" made by cutting off the roof of a car.

I'm guessing that they'd have similar handling characteristics to the car that I have now - creaks, disconcerting body twist, etc, and that they'd let water in like a sieve. In other words, why not make one? It'd be 90% of the fun of convertible ownership, without all those expensive convertible specific parts.

The idea of a minivan made into a convertible sounds especially appealing - it'd be fun and you could haul stuff, too.

The thing that worries me is that I've seen far more Sawzall convertibles at the junkyard than I've ever seen on the road. This led me to wonder what causes them to end up at the junkyard. I've got four basic theories:
1. People only do this to cars that are close to death anyway.
2. Because of the lack of a functional top, water gets in and damages the electronics, rendering them inoperable.
3. The loss of structural rigidity causes damage to various mechanical and/or electronic systems.
4. The spouse said, in no uncertain terms, to get that POS out of the driveway.

What has your experience been?

Re: Failure point of Sawzall convertibles?

A friend cut the roof off a unibody volvo 240.  Could grab the b-pillar and rock it back and forth.  That's where the seat belt was anchored...so weld the doors shut to add a little rigidity back into it.

The Lemons car I race had the roof cut off to put the cage in.  The body kinda sagged down and had to be pulled back together with a winch to get the roof lined up again.

Start tying together points underneath and weld in supports anywhere you can, it might not be THAT bad if you add 50lbs of tubing to it.  But it will probably be floppy.  Oh well, that's to be expected.

Good luck.

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Re: Failure point of Sawzall convertibles?

We run our 240 without the rear part of the roof, just a short roof over the driver's head. It was a wagon, so it opened it up a LOT. No noticeable changes in handling etc.

Re: Failure point of Sawzall convertibles?

I have a 94 Lebaron and while I have the same issues you do with creaks, you have to realize it was designed to be a convertible from the scratch and will be much more solid than any unibody car you start cutting.(the Lebaron convertibles are actually alot different from the coupes even though they looked pretty much the same)  If you start with a body on frame you'll have a better shot, but with a unibody you will need to run some support bracing before you even start.

If you want to do it I would say cruise the junk yards and look for some of the gm convertible conversions in the 80's.  They had a couple companies that would do this to some of their cars.  You'll see alot of extra supports that had to be built in to keep them together.  Could give you some ideas of what you would need to do.

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Re: Failure point of Sawzall convertibles?

Some friends and I cut the roof off an Oldsmobile Alero once and it was surprisingly solid.  It looked fairly good as a 'vert too.

No, really, it did.

Also, there's this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6eoUutOsZoQ

Former chief proprietor and lead bad idea generator of Binford "More Power" Racing, 2010-2013: humbly self-proclaimed the best Chevy Beretta in Lemons history.

Re: Failure point of Sawzall convertibles?

Cage it. Leave out the door bars, since this is a road car. Adding a 6-point cage seems to add back all the rigidity (and more) that leaves with the roof. Plus you can use the cage as scaffolding for a Jeep-style softtop. Additional main hoops for rear rows in a minivan sounds appropriate as well.

DO IT. Just make sure you support the middle of the car while being built.

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7 (edited by Spinnetti 2011-07-08 05:07 PM)

Re: Failure point of Sawzall convertibles?

I've done several street cars. Unless you want a total piece of junk, you can't just whack it, it will be as floppy as a noodle. You really need to reinforce a bunch of places. Its also best to start with something that doesn't suck. I know a guy who chopped and S10 and it practically fell in half. I've done a VW which ended up pretty floppy, but I highly reinforced it, and a MR2, which wasn't bad, but I tied the dash cross member to the center tunnel which helped a lot. I guess you can always try it and see smile MR2 looked nice, but was no fun because your average Joe thought it came from the factory that way. The windshield rake caused wicked wind buffeting too - I should have cut down the windshield a bit and tilted it up some. The VW drew attention everywhere - people loved that thing for some reason (a Rabbit). Maybe because I welded all 4 doors shut, then cut the sides down, with a 4" steel cap over the whole thing, welded the hatch to the body, but removed the glass so the "C" pillar looked like a picnic basket handle... By the way, I drove in the rain many times. Anything over 20mph, there was no fear of getting wet, but you really need to time those stoplights! - never had any electrical issues.

http://img808.imageshack.us/img808/795/mr2convert.jpg

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Re: Failure point of Sawzall convertibles?

cbustapeck wrote:

1. People only do this to cars that are close to death anyway.
2. Because of the lack of a functional top, water gets in and damages the electronics, rendering them inoperable.
3. The loss of structural rigidity causes damage to various mechanical and/or electronic systems.
4. The spouse said, in no uncertain terms, to get that POS out of the driveway.

What has your experience been?

All of the above.  ;-)

I've owned a few convertibles- 69 Newport, 64 Corvair, 63 Dart- and yeah, you get to looking past a LOT of flaws when that top's down, you've got your sunglasses on and the wind's blowing through your hair.  I'd never do a sawzall convertible, though.  As bad as the weatherstripping and tops can be, especially on the older drop tops, there's at least some semblance of protection and shelter if it gets cold or wet.  Maybe if I lived somewhere that didn't have much rain, or cold (like out in Nevada somewhere) I'd consider an old Blazer with a removable top.

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Re: Failure point of Sawzall convertibles?

You can cut the top off anything.  Drive it till the doors quit closing.  After that, just weld them shut and keep driving.

b

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Re: Failure point of Sawzall convertibles?

http://piledriverz.com/2011/05/17/less- … a-b-r-a-t/

Saw this at the junk yard.  Not actually in the junkyard, but in the parking lot of the yard.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3072/5728772105_ee80867701_z_d.jpg

Drive it? Hell I'd be afraid of getting tetanus sitting in it.

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Re: Failure point of Sawzall convertibles?

Needs a 3rd row.

And maybe a 4th.

Former chief proprietor and lead bad idea generator of Binford "More Power" Racing, 2010-2013: humbly self-proclaimed the best Chevy Beretta in Lemons history.