The 24 Hours of Lemons Forums → Lemons Tech → Electrical Kill switch question (not the usual question, a *NEW* one)
This isn't the standard "how to do this" thread...
My question, i guess you can call it a question, is do you have to use the "normal" type switch, what about a heavy equipment E-stop? One of our guys can get these from work real easy, and they are rated at much higher amperage and for all intents should operate as easily or easier than the switch I see everyone else using.
Thoughts?
This isn't the standard "how to do this" thread...
My question, i guess you can call it a question, is do you have to use the "normal" type switch, what about a heavy equipment E-stop? One of our guys can get these from work real easy, and they are rated at much higher amperage and for all intents should operate as easily or easier than the switch I see everyone else using.
http://www.diycnc.co.uk/assets/images/e-stop.jpg
Thoughts?
A kill switch is exactly that, something that will cut power completely from a circuit.
You will need to wire your system so that both the battery and the alternator charge go through the switch so that no power whatsoever is being drawn through the system.
One of the teams I drove with at Reno had Auxiliary fans that by-passed the switch and we were black flagged until we fixed them to go through the switch.
The biggest issue is amperage load on the switch and it looks like yours can definitely handle anything your car can produce.
If it is a push button switch I would label it with a sign that says something like PUSH/OFF
Good luck....
That's not a 'racing switch' as it states in the rules. It's easier getting the right equipment the first time so you are freaking out when you fail tech for not having the right switch. Send Jay an email for his opinion since he is the sole voice of reason here.
That's not a 'racing switch' as it states in the rules. It's easier getting the right equipment the first time so you are freaking out when you fail tech for not having the right switch. Send Jay an email for his opinion since he is the sole voice of reason here.
Taj...
This switch is being used by quite a few Lemons racers, and there is nothing on it that says it's a racing switch.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d … mber=92688
Neither does this one.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d … mber=66789
But I have seen both at the track.
Your right Jay does have the last say in the matter.
Better safe then sorry, last thing you need is to be hunting down a new swtich on race day. Ask Jay and send him a pic just to be 100% safe.
I can't what till Matt with Free-Range Racing reads these posts.
He hates how the Kill Switch keeps coming up.:D
Emailed Jay, sent him a link to the thread.
I know there's much debate about this damn switch, but this isn't the usual "how is this supposed to work" debate. 
so what happens when a foam prick of the porcubemmer flys off and hits your big button on the track?
Response I got from Jay.
Hey, Chip: I have never before been called a voice of reason--it's a novel sensation, I assure you.
I don't have any problem with that switch. As long as it's properly wired; and kills the engine and power cold from 2000rpm; and is located in an obvious, reachable place with good markings, it'll pass Lemons tech. Remember, tho, push-type switches have a nasty habit of getting pushed when you don't want them to be--by another car, by a mechanic leaning on them in the pits, by a piece of debris bonking into them on the track, etc. I personally prefer key switches for that reason, but it's really your call.
Our plan is to put the switch "on the outside edge of the dash near the driver's-side window opening" per the rules. That way it's inside the car and hidden from the aforementioned objects which will push it unintentionally.
Unrelated: What kind of kill switch to people with diesels have to install?
so what happens when a foam prick of the porcubemmer flys off and hits your big button on the track?
OH Man! That one can be taken in so many ways.:D
1. The Porcubeemers are really Pricks just ask me how I know.
2. I don't know how the car died, I just saw a prick flying through the air and bamm!
Chip
Thanks for posting Jays reply.
Good luck with the build....
Unrelated: What kind of kill switch to people with diesels have to install?
Maybe a big plumbing valve to shut off the fuel... or a ball-peen on a chain to hammer a fuel line closed
You install that switch.. and im changing our theme to "Kill Switch Hunters"
Yer right Paul.. this is a great thread!
We have an industrial push-to-stop switch. Ours is dual pole, so it interrupts the 'run' circuit and also actuates a battery cut-off solenoid under the hood. It's mounted just inside the drivers window. CMP didn't seem to have a problem with it.
Unrelated: What kind of kill switch to people with diesels have to install?
Wired the same as a spark engine, but interrupting power to the stop solenoid instead of power to the ignition coil
For your solenoid-activated kill switch, I'm wondering what the failure mode is?
For instance, if you take a hard hit and the wiring of the actual switch is interrupted, what happens? You should have it wired to be "normally open", so that the "kill switch" actually has to complete the circuit to energize the relay and supply engine power. Then if the switch loses a connection or a wire, you're not stuck with a non-functional kill switch. (just a non-running engine, but that's the same with any kill switch that loses a wire)
Loren,
That's how ours is wired. The switch needs to complete the circuit to run the car. Pushing the button opens the circuit.
The 24 Hours of Lemons Forums → Lemons Tech → Electrical Kill switch question (not the usual question, a *NEW* one)