Topic: throughly off topic....home repair and improvement

yeah...this isn't car related, but it is DIY putting things where they ought not go during the course of a rebuild...so it does kinda fit the theme of the board...

I'm looking at buying a 81 year old house that appears to have all 30 original 81 year old windows in it. It's not historically zoned, so i could go with new fangled vinyl windows, but i'm a cheap guy, and i'm not hip on dropping $30k on the only-one-we-have-is-top-o-the-line option from Champion.

i've done some reading that suggests that wood is better than vinyl when it comes to insulation, air tight windows are air tight windows, and the real drawback of properly installed and functioning wood windows is their single pane-ness. they just can't compete with dual pane, argon filled, unicorn tear coated WonderGlass 3000 windows.

you can get a lot of the efficiency back by installing tight fitting storm windows, but that's just asking for more leaks and they look kinda funky on a older home in Oklahoma.


on the other hand, dual pane, argon filled, unicorn tear coated WonderGlass 3000 replacement panes are available, and are not stupidly expensive when compared to $1000 a hole brand new Champion lifetime warranty virgin vinyl windows.


so....if i have to rebuild the existing covered-in-eighty-years-of-paint window frames and such anyway to make them work correctly pass inspection (new brass weatherstripping, new cords/chains, new pulleys, etc) why can't i dig a bigger channel in the sashes and hang a WonderGlass dual pane in them? the WonderGlass units are fairly thin, the sashes are fairly thick, and i can hang new weights in the frames to compensate for the extra weight of the glass.


anyone on here have any insight on the topic? anyone tried this already and said, "this is stupid, i'm buying real windows"?

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Re: throughly off topic....home repair and improvement

psychoboy wrote:

yeah...this isn't car related, but it is DIY putting things where they ought not go during the course of a rebuild...so it does kinda fit the theme of the board...

I'm looking at buying a 81 year old house that appears to have all 30 original 81 year old windows in it. It's not historically zoned, so i could go with new fangled vinyl windows, but i'm a cheap guy, and i'm not hip on dropping $30k on the only-one-we-have-is-top-o-the-line option from Champion.

i've done some reading that suggests that wood is better than vinyl when it comes to insulation, air tight windows are air tight windows, and the real drawback of properly installed and functioning wood windows is their single pane-ness. they just can't compete with dual pane, argon filled, unicorn tear coated WonderGlass 3000 windows.

you can get a lot of the efficiency back by installing tight fitting storm windows, but that's just asking for more leaks and they look kinda funky on a older home in Oklahoma.


on the other hand, dual pane, argon filled, unicorn tear coated WonderGlass 3000 replacement panes are available, and are not stupidly expensive when compared to $1000 a hole brand new Champion lifetime warranty virgin vinyl windows.


so....if i have to rebuild the existing covered-in-eighty-years-of-paint window frames and such anyway to make them work correctly pass inspection (new brass weatherstripping, new cords/chains, new pulleys, etc) why can't i dig a bigger channel in the sashes and hang a WonderGlass dual pane in them? the WonderGlass units are fairly thin, the sashes are fairly thick, and i can hang new weights in the frames to compensate for the extra weight of the glass.


anyone on here have any insight on the topic? anyone tried this already and said, "this is stupid, i'm buying real windows"?

You coming down to ECR next month? One of my teamates owns a window company and can talk your ear off about them.

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3 (edited by psychoboy 2012-11-07 03:01 PM)

Re: throughly off topic....home repair and improvement

i'm expecting to be at ECR in a support-only role.

this pending house purchase is going to likely to curtail my seat-buying prospects somewhat, but I still own the tow pig, trailer, welder, plasma cutter, compressor, and tubing bender.....

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Re: throughly off topic....home repair and improvement

I had custom vinyl windows made specific to my measurements (to the 1/4") for my old house and they were a LOT less than $1000.  More like $150 - $200/ea.  They were argon filled, low-e coated, double pane double hung windows with screens.  I would think that you would have trouble beating that price just for replacement double pane glass much less adding in the new weather stripping and window weights.  Yes they're not authentic looking but they seal a hell of a lot better than even decent condition 80 year old wood windows.  They were American Craftsman, which you can order at Home Depot or a few other places.  (I think it's Anderson's vinyl line.)  They cut my utility bills by a lot and made the house a lot more comfortable to be in.

I think it would look great to refurb what you've got but you really need to assess the condition of everything - sash, frame, guides, etc,  - checking for dry and wet rot and excess wear.  You also need to weigh the amount of labor involved.  By the time I got done replacing all my old windows (22+!) I could go from start to finish in less than 2-3 hours including setup, tear-out, install, and cleanup. (keeping in mind I'm a slow, careful worker, not a rusher.)  I'm going to guess you would double or triple that in refurbing an old window.

I think you would be happy with the performance of either one, if the work was done well.

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5 (edited by psychoboy 2012-11-08 09:39 AM)

Re: throughly off topic....home repair and improvement

the $1000 a hole price includes all installation and lifetime no-questions labor and materials warranty. 

it looks like your $200 a hole price does not include installation, and is likely warranty on the window unit alone.

including the cost of labor (even if it's yours) and the inevitable future replacement costs and i'll bet your total investment starts getting close to the turn key job.


wood windows have more small maintenance over their long lifetime (mostly paint and cleaning), but vinyl windows have no maintenance over a short lifetime.

the only efficiency benefit i can find between refurbed original old wood (pre WWII wood) and new vinyl is in the new glass, and that's the part I'm looking at replacing.

all windows suck when they are poorly installed, air leaks around the edges are the biggest problem. with appropriate weatherstripping, wood can be as well sealed as vinyl.
wood sashes are better insulation than vinyl sashes (which are better than metal sashes).
dual pane glass is better than single pane (for a number of reasons)

in my view, dual pane glass in well sealed wood sashes should be the best option, efficiency wise. best glass in the best frame


i'd be interested to find a study that compares refurbed wood to replacement vinyl. i have little doubt that brand new vinyl is better than 80 yr old wood, so the utility bills before and after replacement can surely look great...but is it because it's actually better, or because it's newer?


a brand new frame with a vinyl top and a  plastic backlight on your convertible might seal better than the original canvas/glass does, but would a new canvas and glass top with the same new weatherstripping the vinyl top has be better in the long and short terms?

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Re: throughly off topic....home repair and improvement

Ahh, I see, yes the $200/hole doesn't include labor, but neither does your wood windows.  My point was that the work to install vinyl WILL be less than the work to refurb the wood, and the materials cost will be comparable - if not more to refurb the wood.  So you're looking at a wash, cost-wise, between the two, but a lot more labor to refurb the wood.  You would also have NO warranty on the wood windows, as any cracked units / etc they would assume were installation problems.  Fogged units they might warranty.

Vinyl windows have a surprisingly long life.  The house I moved into has 25 year old vinyl windows and they are still in great shape, seal well, operate smoothly, and have no problems.  I would not complain about a 30+ year life for any building material.

The new glass is not the only efficiency benefit.  Weather stripping an 80 year old wood window will not result in it sealing as well as a brand new window of any material.  It's just not going to happen.  A new wood window would seal as well as a new vinyl window, but an 80 year old window will never be as sealed as a new window.  Air leaks around the edge only happen with poorly installed or damaged windows, and I assume that the installation quality will be comparable to the quality of the refurb job on the wood window.

I'm not trying to talk you out of it - it's something I would have jumped into with both feet years ago, but I've worn myself out on too many projects like that.  Again on my old house, I noticed that much of the wood window trim was dry-rotted.  Oh, no problem, when replacing the windows I decided to replace the wood trim with all new wood trim that I made myself to mimic the old stuff.  Easy, right?  Oh man I had sooo many hours into that job I don't even want to think about it.  What I thought would be a week long project (I took the week off work) took better than a year to finish.

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7 (edited by psychoboy 2012-11-08 10:23 AM)

Re: throughly off topic....home repair and improvement

dculberson wrote:

Ahh, I see, yes the $200/hole doesn't include labor, but neither does your wood windows.  My point was that the work to install vinyl WILL be less than the work to refurb the wood, and the materials cost will be comparable - if not more to refurb the wood.  So you're looking at a wash, cost-wise, between the two, but a lot more labor to refurb the wood.  You would also have NO warranty on the wood windows, as any cracked units / etc they would assume were installation problems.  Fogged units they might warranty.

Vinyl windows have a surprisingly long life.  The house I moved into has 25 year old vinyl windows and they are still in great shape, seal well, operate smoothly, and have no problems.  I would not complain about a 30+ year life for any building material.

The new glass is not the only efficiency benefit.  Weather stripping an 80 year old wood window will not result in it sealing as well as a brand new window of any material.  It's just not going to happen.  A new wood window would seal as well as a new vinyl window, but an 80 year old window will never be as sealed as a new window.  Air leaks around the edge only happen with poorly installed or damaged windows, and I assume that the installation quality will be comparable to the quality of the refurb job on the wood window.

I'm not trying to talk you out of it - it's something I would have jumped into with both feet years ago, but I've worn myself out on too many projects like that.  Again on my old house, I noticed that much of the wood window trim was dry-rotted.  Oh, no problem, when replacing the windows I decided to replace the wood trim with all new wood trim that I made myself to mimic the old stuff.  Easy, right?  Oh man I had sooo many hours into that job I don't even want to think about it.  What I thought would be a week long project (I took the week off work) took better than a year to finish.

thanks for the insights, but i have to ask about the portion i bolded above.

i can seal the frame and its interface to the wall, just as with the new windows
i can plane and weatherstrip the jamb and the sash to kill airleaks around the sash just as with new windows
i can seal the IGU in the sash just as with new windows.
paint seals the old wood (which many suggest is much better/denser than newer wood) just as well as new wood, and good latex paint is just as plastic as vinyl windows

is there another factor of sealig that i'm overlooking?

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8 (edited by cheseroo 2012-11-08 10:57 AM)

Re: throughly off topic....home repair and improvement

I believe the weight pockets are a big source of air leaks.  IIRC, they fill those pockets with insulation and use a more compact method of providing a counterweight (springs?) when improving double hung window efficiency.  I have a rental that has a mix of weighted and spring counterweighted double hung windows.  Since it's in a hysterical district, I need to go in front of the Board of Biddies in order to get approval to do anything that alters the architecture as seen from the street.  After seeing the neighbor emerge eviserated from a year long battle with them, those windows are just fine thank you.

The house I live in needs the 60 yo aluminum windows replaced but I just haven't been willing to write the big check (I've got some 6' x 10' windows) to make it happen.  For that reason, this thread is of interest to me.  I've always wondered how hard it could be to order just the dual pane glass for fixed windows and make/modify your own enclosure.  I realize that there's no easy way around the opening type windows.

Oh, and wax paper is your friend when you need to close those windows at night after you have painted them.

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9 (edited by psychoboy 2012-11-08 12:14 PM)

Re: throughly off topic....home repair and improvement

the weight pockets are typically uninsulated mostly to keep the weights moving freely.

if tuned properly, i wonder if i could retrofit the weights with gas charged hood/trunk/tailgate assist struts? since they aren't gravity powered, i could pack the weight channel with insulation and just leave enough of a notch for the stroke of the rod and the chain coming from the pulley. done right, the widows could be self closing.


part of the reason i'm looking into this is because some people in the neighborhood are making noise about forming a Board of Biddies. I'd like to have a functional option in place before that happens, AND something that other people will be able to copy afterwards.

replacing the 6 little panes of glass with one big one (so long as the faux-dividers are external) results in a identical appearance from the street, so the biddies can't get their Depends in a bunch about them. doing it with dual pane glass gives me most of the efficiency replacements would.

casement windows are a whole 'nother animal, and i wouldn't want to begin to figure out a way to fool with them historically or pseudo-historically.

on the other hand, many of them are steel, so you could conceivably take out the glass, weld up any concerns in place, pop a dual pane in there, and glaze it in place. you might have to build / weld in thicker sashes to hold the thicker glass, but that's still doable in place.

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Re: throughly off topic....home repair and improvement

psychoboy wrote:

thanks for the insights, but i have to ask about the portion i bolded above.

i can seal the frame and its interface to the wall, just as with the new windows
i can plane and weatherstrip the jamb and the sash to kill airleaks around the sash just as with new windows
i can seal the IGU in the sash just as with new windows.
paint seals the old wood (which many suggest is much better/denser than newer wood) just as well as new wood, and good latex paint is just as plastic as vinyl windows

is there another factor of sealig that i'm overlooking?

My opinion is that work at home done to 80 year old wood windows, done in a reasonable time frame, would not equal the tolerances possible with new material working in a factory.  Yes you can plane the wood and work to achieve perfection but when you're looking at a pile of 20+ windows to do and a house with a thousand other things needing done, how accurately are you going to get every single one of them to seal?

I've made my own door frame from scratch to hang a beautiful solid wood door.  I routed out channels for weather stripping, made it just right, and it sealed perfectly - better than a prehung door sold at Lowe'sDepot.. but I had dozens of hours in that ONE door frame.  Dozens.  I don't imagine it will be any easier to get an old window to seal right.  If I had to face doing that 20 times, then $20,000 would quickly sound like a world class bargain.

If you get the house, I think you should try it, I really do.  But just get the materials for one window and do it to see how it goes.  Don't be afraid to change your mind, but if it works and is easy then awesome.  You might work a lot faster than I do, I know I'm slow as molasses at work like this.  It's rewarding but the demands of the rest of the house can really drag you down.

Oh, and like cheese says, if you do replace the windows rather than refurb, stuff the sash weight areas with insulation.  Since I replaced the wood trim I was able to do it easily and that made a good difference too.

I 100% agree with you that the old window look better and the wood is way nicer than even new wood windows.

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Re: throughly off topic....home repair and improvement

dculberson wrote:
psychoboy wrote:

thanks for the insights, but i have to ask about the portion i bolded above.

i can seal the frame and its interface to the wall, just as with the new windows
i can plane and weatherstrip the jamb and the sash to kill airleaks around the sash just as with new windows
i can seal the IGU in the sash just as with new windows.
paint seals the old wood (which many suggest is much better/denser than newer wood) just as well as new wood, and good latex paint is just as plastic as vinyl windows

is there another factor of sealig that i'm overlooking?

My opinion is that work at home done to 80 year old wood windows, done in a reasonable time frame, would not equal the tolerances possible with new material working in a factory.  Yes you can plane the wood and work to achieve perfection but when you're looking at a pile of 20+ windows to do and a house with a thousand other things needing done, how accurately are you going to get every single one of them to seal?

I've made my own door frame from scratch to hang a beautiful solid wood door.  I routed out channels for weather stripping, made it just right, and it sealed perfectly - better than a prehung door sold at Lowe'sDepot.. but I had dozens of hours in that ONE door frame.  Dozens.  I don't imagine it will be any easier to get an old window to seal right.  If I had to face doing that 20 times, then $20,000 would quickly sound like a world class bargain.

If you get the house, I think you should try it, I really do.  But just get the materials for one window and do it to see how it goes.  Don't be afraid to change your mind, but if it works and is easy then awesome.  You might work a lot faster than I do, I know I'm slow as molasses at work like this.  It's rewarding but the demands of the rest of the house can really drag you down.

Oh, and like cheese says, if you do replace the windows rather than refurb, stuff the sash weight areas with insulation.  Since I replaced the wood trim I was able to do it easily and that made a good difference too.

I 100% agree with you that the old window look better and the wood is way nicer than even new wood windows.

fair enough, and a very rational opinion at that.

since i'm looking at buying the house, i'm looking at getting the sellers to buy the windows and put that in the final price of the house. they are WAAAAYYY overpriced for the neighborhood anyway, so i'm trying to make them justify their existing price somewhat. assuming they balk at the "rational price with $30k in windows" offer, i'm trying to devise plan B.

one plan B is your route, new vinyl windows, replaced as i find the cash and opportunity, either by myself or by professionals.
another plan B is this option, refurbed existing windows, following the same time line.

both of those options are probably pretty close in actual dollars, and in efficiency, so the trade off is labor vs. look....

....assuming the original question in the thread is possible (namely, putting dual pane glass in formerly single pane sashes)

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Re: throughly off topic....home repair and improvement

psychoboy wrote:

....assuming the original question in the thread is possible (namely, putting dual pane glass in formerly single pane sashes)

I think it would be, if the air gap was small enough I think you might not even need to re-route the wood.  The windows I took out had a fair amount of reveal to them.  Re-using the original window grilles as decorative elements might be your biggest challenge, as far as the sashes and glass itself goes.

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13 (edited by psychoboy 2012-11-08 01:44 PM)

Re: throughly off topic....home repair and improvement

i doubt that i'd be able to reuse the original dividers, since the original sashes contain 6 individual pieces of glass. creating a faux divider (6-light grille) shouldn't be too strenuous, compared to the rest of the refurb task.

i wonder if a single dove tail joint where the divider meets the sash would hold it in appropriately? If i made them of powdercoated metal, i'd never have to worry about them warping and pulling away from the glass in the middle, and they'd help hold the sash together.

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Re: throughly off topic....home repair and improvement

I would think you could get new wooden windows custom made to fit into the existing frames fairly easily and converting over to a spring loaded counterweight isn't hard either (think of a tape measure buried in the window frame). Just find a small local mill willing to make new ones based on the old ones but with double pained glass.

http://www.hardwaresource.com/hinges/SH … sh+Balance

http://www.hardwaresource.com/images/products/34064-lg.jpg

These replace the pulley at the top, one side attaches to the upper sash, the other attaches to the lower.

http://www.hardwaresource.com/hinges/SH … sh+Balance

http://www.hardwaresource.com/images/products/Sash_Balance_Installation_Diagram.jpg

These have both sashes in one mechanism and are typically in the center (top to bottom wise)

I used to sell antique builders hardware, and have done quite a few repairs or installations, but never fitted new windows to old frames. That being said, I have been called in to sort out a stack of sashes that had been removed from an 8 unit apartment building and stripped of paint when it became apparent that they were no longer all the same size and had to be hand matched to their frames.

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Re: throughly off topic....home repair and improvement

Typically you can remove the sash by just removing the "parting strip" and the "inner stop" then swinging it in on the sash cords. These pieces of wood are readily available (though may be cosmetically a little different), the "parting strip" just pops into a grove, the "inner stop" may be part of the decorative trim and is typicallt nailed on, and covered with 100 coats of paint.

http://www.remodelormove.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/window_glossary.gif

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Re: throughly off topic....home repair and improvement

well, it seems as though i'm not the first guy to think of this:

http://www.bi-glass.com/index.php

on the other hand, this site is old, was featured on This Old House in the early 90s, and seems to be unwilling to accept correspondence, so either the plan is terrible, or the people implementing it weren't able to make it stick.

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Re: throughly off topic....home repair and improvement

Have you considered putting in new windows and frames, and then making a facia pannel to recreate the dividers?

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Re: throughly off topic....home repair and improvement

the grilles or dividers are the least of the worries. I can fake up anything to re-create the existing 6 over 1 style with two sashes of dual pane glass. i'm just trying to get a feel for if anyone has ever tired swapping their original old single pane glass for the newer dual pane greatness.

new windows and frames are quickly going to be out of my willing budget unless the seller buys them with the proceeds from the sale.

if i don't get a house full of new windows at the sale, then i have to update as budget and time allows. that gives me the decision of one at a time new or one at a time refurb. similar dollar investment, likely large labor difference, but also vastly different appearance.

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Re: throughly off topic....home repair and improvement

Actually I bet the company making the sealed units could put dividers inside the glass.  It wouldn't have the look of wood but would simplify the job a whole, whole lot.

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Re: throughly off topic....home repair and improvement

yes, in most cases, the dual-pane glass can be built with inserted dividers.

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Re: throughly off topic....home repair and improvement

Now I wish I had a project I could try this on.  Send me a sash and I'll play with it.

(Please, for the love of god, don't actually do that.  I have way too many things on my plate as it is. ;-)

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22 (edited by psychoboy 2012-11-09 02:09 PM)

Re: throughly off topic....home repair and improvement

i just made an offer on the house (for ~$60000/30% less than they are asking), so we'll see just how hard up they are to offload this albatross...

If they balk at buying the new windows but agree to a reasonable purchase price, i'm probably going to give it go. at worst, i blow one out and decide to go the replacement route.

sadly, there are 7 windows in the house that are already newish...so i get to start trolling ebay and craigslist and habitat for humanity looking for old wood pieces to make new windows from.

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Re: throughly off topic....home repair and improvement

If you're willing to replace with newer windows yourself, I'll suggest Forest Lumber's Door and Window shop just east of the fairgrounds. When my wife and I built her workshop, we got four new 2'x3', double-pane, low-e, vinyl windows for about $200 IIRC.

Re: throughly off topic....home repair and improvement

psychoboy wrote:

i just made an offer on the house (for ~$60000/30% less than they are asking), so we'll see just how hard up they are to offload this albatross...

If they balk at buying the new windows but agree to a reasonable purchase price, i'm probably going to give it go. at worst, i blow one out and decide to go the replacement route.

sadly, there are 7 windows in the house that are already newish...so i get to start trolling ebay and craigslist and habitat for humanity looking for old wood pieces to make new windows from.

Good luck with the offer!!

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25 (edited by willy1959 2012-11-12 12:33 PM)

Re: throughly off topic....home repair and improvement

If you get anywhere with the purchase of this house, feel free to email me off list (willy1959@gmail.com) I am a carpenter contractor  been working in the trades since 1974 with my Father and have been a union carpenter for 35 years. been on my own for 25  (www.thompsoncarpentry.com)  You have had a lot of good ideas presented. I think I could give you a lot more help.
If your a Lemons racer, you are most likely capable of installing your own vinyl windows, or even wood pocket replacement windows.  If you feel like the house is worth replacing the entire frame and all that may a bit over the diyer's head. That said, if you have the cash and don't need to go thru construction loans etc you can hire a lot of people that are capable on the side for cash these days.

Btw I am also the construction coordinator for Habitat for humanity in Racine Wis, And our sister organization is the Restore In Racine. There really isnt much worth while in the way of windows that I would mess with if it were my house at our store. Yours could be different.

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