Rotor question

Solid.

New, full-thickness, stock rotors.

That goes for any car, not just heavy ones.

What are you proposing as an alternative?

Drilling and slotting rotors doesn't make them last any longer.

Brake rotors are all about dissipating heat.  More mass = more heat dissipation.  Hence full-thickness, non-drilled or slotted, stock rotors.

Race pads and fluid to handle elevated heat levels.  Cooling ducts to remove more heat.  Should be all you need for a Lemons car.

If there is a larger diameter brake upgrade for your car using factory parts, that would give you more rotor mass, which might be worthwhile.  Beyond that, you're looking at expensive race brakes, or custom fabrication to fit something from another car.

Agree also, our P71 will race with full thickness OEM rotors.  No slots or holes.  DOT 4, 475 degree fluid and race quality pads.  My 2 cents.

Yeah, I know, Ron.  "Solid", vented rotors.

His list of choices was "Solid/slotted/drilled/slotted & drilled", though.  That's my story and I'm sticking to it.

However, if the rear brakes are disk... solid non-vented rotors are not uncommon.

I am not doing anything with the rear brakes other then putting stock pads.  I will go vented fronts.

Thanks

For one race we used new drilled slotted rotors with R4 pads. The rotors had large cracks and the pads were almost down to the metal after the New Orleans race.

For MSRH last month, new stock rotors with new R4 pads. Same drivers as before with about hundred less racing miles, pads are maybe half worn. The rotors have some small cracks.

No more drilled rotors for me.

Don't forget to use super-hi-temp brake fluid and bleed the living shit out of the system. Then bleed it again. And again. All the heavy-duty brake hardware in the world won't do you any good if you're boiling the fluid.

Our Brava has solid unvented rotors in front and drum in back. In fact I think the front brakes (for a heavier, 4-passenger coupe) are the same as the back brakes on my Fiat Spider.

and yes, they sucked in a big way.

Brakes and brake systems are unrestricted.  Run the same compound front and rear and if you need to change the brake bias, use a brake bias adjuster.  $50 at Jegs.  Doing this saves money in the long run - by having proper braking, you save on tires by not flat spotting them and also on brake pads both by not wearing them out and by using less agressive and costly pads.

Now that all the guys who run light weight cars have had there say here is the skinny on heavy cars.

Good quality solid rotors and do not go really aggressive on the pads. If you have experienced racers on your team most of them are going to trail brake like Mo Fo's so in that case stick to a good quality street pad that will make them not drive STUPID and burn everything up. YES we put in pads that purposely would get hot and make them slow down and NOT wreck the car. The plus of heavy cars is that all the smaller cars and there cool driving will bounce off of us and we keep running while they fly off to never never land and get black flagged. Long story short use a really good set of ceramic or Hawk pads on the front (not to aggressive) and bone stock on the rear and you will be fine just don't drag race the straights just keep smooth and steady and let the carnage happen around you.

Pendejo Maximo Grande