BBK question

You will get zero laps for anything you do to your braking system.  Period.

Generally, people use factory parts upgrades because they're a helluva lot cheaper and they're effective.  Why spend $600 when you could spend $60?

While you won't get lap penalties for putting a $2000 brake upgrade on your car... such an upgrade WILL be noticed, and you can bet that the judges will take a closer look at the REST of your car.  Why?  Because if you've got $2k to dump into the brakes of a crapcan to win $1500 in nickels, what else did you spend money on?  Trust me, they will answer that question and ding you for anything that's iffy.

Spend as much on brakes, wheels, tires and safety equipment as you want, but if you show up with "nice" equipment, the $500 part of the car better be more than believable!

I wasn't thinking about buying a 2K brake kit.... The wilwood kits brand new are like 1K and I was hoping to get one used for 400-500. Buy I understand your point about extra un-needed scrutiny. As far as flat spotting the tires, I am not concerned with the ability to stop faster, I would like a BBK to be able to accept and dissipate the total heat load. My experience with 20-25 minute track sessions tells me that the brakes can build up a lot of heat, I can only imagine that will get worse when you are racing continuously.

Seems to be very car dependent. Probably also track dependent. Stock brakes were fine for us.

Stock brakes + race pads + DOT 4 fluid = No problems on most cars out there.  We ran stock calipers with Hawk HP Plus pads and used ATE fluid.  No braking problems.

As an FYI - The HP+ pads are good for lightweight cars and medium braking - I consider them a really good street/autocross/HPDE pad.  For heavier cars and sustained racing Hawk makes Black and Blue pads even better pads (DTC-xx) that can handle the heat better.

Hawks are known for eating rotors though.  That is why I prefer Porterfield pads.  They make R4 for racing, R4-S for street/auto-x/HPDEs, and R4-E for endurance racing.  We ran the R4-E at Nelson Ledges due to the length of the race.

Brakes are unlimited in Lemons.  If you decide to run Chump, you're going to get a lot of scrutiny with Wilwoods.  They have a 2x OEM cost for brakes to discourage Bremobs and things like that. 

If I can get Wilwoods for my car for $1000, that's about 1/2 the price of a brake system from the dealer anyway.  Which is one of the reasons I think the Chump's 2X rule is worthless.

I ended up spending about $700 replacing the entire brake hydraulic system on the 240Z, then we run race pads that cost about $300 for front and rears.  We have two sets of pads front and rear so we were into them for a bunch of money.

A former team mate said we could have run Wilwoods for what we spent and that their pads would be about $70 per axle.  So if you have to replace an entire system like I did or find a great deal on a used system, you could potentially save some money.

When I talked to various suppliers for Z car brake upgrades, a lot of them offered stuff using stock parts but quit using or carrying a lot of kits because they said it was really more effective to go to a system like Wilwood.

If their race pads are around $70, that is about 1/2 price compared to the Porterfields we run on stock calipers.

I didn't really look into an option using non-stock parts but I did spend a lot more money than I thought I would.

The brakes on the car are more than it needs and flat spotting tires can happen really easily and happens more than I would like.  Then again we did flat spot some tires due to a spin so brakes aren't the only way to flat spot tires.

Inexperienced drivers and aggressive non-ABS brakes are likely to flat spot a lot of tires.

Brake upgrades also depend on the car.  Some cars have better stock systems than others.