The 24 Hours of Lemons Forums → Lemons Tech → Oil pan removal
I have a stubborn oil pan to remove. I think something may have been used to "help" seal it in place. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to get the pan off without bending it and causing problems for myself. Oh, and yes, all the screws are out.
The PO probably used some RTV gasket seal to make it stick. FWIW, that's all that the MR2's use to seal the oil pan to the bottom of the block, they don't have any gasket otherwise.
There are a couple ways to do this, but basically what you need to do is to break that seal. If you can get in there with a thin-blade razor, that works sometimes. You might also try using a putty knife, but you want to also be careful not to gouge the mating surfaces either. I've also had luck sometimes with a windshield gasket breaker tool. I've had good luck with a putty knife though. Cheers.
I was afraid of that. I tried a blade was was not making very fast progress. Looks like I'll be under there for a while.
Thanks
Bosch electric jackhammer
Detonating cord
John Deere 710J loader
What car is it? Like Mulry said, most new engines with aluminum oil pans just use silicone. If that's what you have there should be a couple of places on the pan where you can stick a pry bar in to pry it loose. Also a rubber mallet can knock it loose too.
Even stamped steel pans can be tough to remove. Pry around the edges til pops loose. Then you might have to hammer the flanges flat again to install.
What car is it? ...
It's a '91 Prelude Si AWS. Really hoping the rear steer will hold on entire race too.
Dip your putty knife in lacquer thinner or acetone and work it under and around.....if you have two or more, leave one in place and go around other way with a second knife until it pops...
sergio wrote:What car is it? ...
It's a '91 Prelude Si AWS. Really hoping the rear steer will hold on entire race too.
The one on our 89 came right off. You sure you got ALL the bolts?
Dip your putty knife in lacquer thinner or acetone and work it under and around.....if you have two or more, leave one in place and go around other way with a second knife until it pops...
+1. Very good tip on the solvent, Jim. Mucho bueno.
Go preludes!
Honda pans usually come off fairly easily, I've had to use a rubber hammer before (aim for the corners, they're stronger).
I don't see the rear steer causing any problems, I was a moderator on preludepower.com for years and never saw a single report of the mechanical 4ws dying.
The electrical on the 92+ preudes dies constantly.
I was gonna post what Bobnova just said above me, get a rubber hammer/mallet/deadblow and hit it on the corner area where the metal is curved, just kinda tap it and alternate sides, it'll help break the seal.
this is pretty normal , just tap it/hit it and it'll break the seal. just don't wail on it.
you can also put a 2x4 up against it flat and hit the 2x4 to distribute the force on the side of the pan so you dont dent it and then just WAIL on the side of it if you need to.
Thanks everyone.
Should be in the garage tomorrow night and will give the suggestions a try.
I keep telling myself that this should be as easy as seen on TV. LOL
I usually use a plastic dead blow hammer. Like others have said don't cream the poor thing, just tap is here and there until it loosens up. Rock it back and forth till the seal says uncle.
I've always had the best success with a putty scraper and a small hammer. Just don't let the scraper get too deep into the crankcase area.
Hey I took off an oil pan once (without removing the bolts) by trying to braze a hole shut without "evacuating" the hydrocarbons out of the crank case. also put a nice dent in the hood with the 710 cap. I would recommend using complete drivers suit and hearing protecting with this method. Looking back on this ordeal I would use a rubber mallet on the reinforced curved areas of the pan.
why are you taking the oil pan off. rebuilding the bottom end?
why are you taking the oil pan off. rebuilding the bottom end?
The gasket is the main problem leaking but we are looking into welding some scrap metal as a baffle.
Some pans trap the oil pickup, i.e. you gotta lower it then remove the pickup before you can remove it completely...some thing to think about if you're swinging hammers at it...I've got a great old-time oil pan tip which I'd be glad to share with the group if Troy admits he's wrong on the tire treadwear issue! 
Prelude pan should just drop off without mucking with the pickup, other hondas do.
While you're in there i would be very tempted to add some capacity, 3g prelude (88-91) motors really, really, really don't appreciate being low on oil. They tend to send the #3 rod off on a mission to find more oil.
Prelude pan should just drop off without mucking with the pickup, other hondas do.
While you're in there i would be very tempted to add some capacity, 3g prelude (88-91) motors really, really, really don't appreciate being low on oil. They tend to send the #3 rod off on a mission to find more oil.
yep, we are going to make sure the oil gets to where it needs to, at least we hope.
Another tip for removing stubborn old oil pans:
Place a scrap of wood against the oil pan, then insert a screw bottle jack or a screw scissor jack between chassis and wood. Tighten jack, wait a while, tighten some more, maybe hit w/ rubber BFH, attack the gasket w/ sharp objects, tighten jack some more,...
Eventually it will come off.
Sure seems like limited space to baffle the pan. We got some pics fome someone else on here but we have a dif engine so I think it will be little harder to accomplish what we want to do. Will be back in the garage cutting templates this week.
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