1 (edited by dpvog 2009-12-16 08:48 PM)

Topic: But... it's cheaper THIS way!!!

Here's a serious question for a ripe lemon or anyone else with some experience going through Le Mons BS inspection.  I've been looking around for a heap to convert into a true Le Mons racer and I've run into a very discouraging problem.  I have found a bunch of cars for sale between 600 and 800 that look like good candidates, and that I could probably, with some determined negotiation, pick up for $500. 

Now, here's the problem.  Once I put in a safe cage, buy a decent racing seat, maybe fix the brakes so no one dies, buy some used wheels, and replace the tires with something decent, now I'm well north of $2500 and sometimes pushing 3k. 

One the other hand, I can find the occasional used (an completely pre-dented) "race car" with a reasonable cage installed, racing seat, two or more sets of tires and wheels, almost all ready to go, for $1200.  That's a price I just can't touch if I try to put something together myself from scratch.  Has anyone else run across this problem, and what do you do about it?  I don't want a million BS laps deducted, but it looks like the cheapest way to race a Le Mon is to find one that's already been squeezed.  But since the exempt safety items like the cage, racing seat, wheels, and tires are folded into the cost of the car, the $500 price just isn't gonna happen.  Since a lot of this race is about being silly and just having fun on a budget, what happens in this sort of a situation?  HELP?

Re: But... it's cheaper THIS way!!!

Cage, seat, harnesses, tires and brakes, plus some other safety items are not included in the price.

Cool, huh?


KT

TH 2009- 40th ~ SP 2010- 13th Class Bad win!! TH 2010- 17th ~TH 2010- 16th  SP 2011- 20th ~ RF 2011- 13th Least Horrible Yank Tank ~ TH 2011- 79th
SP 2011- 105th ~ SP 2012- 119th ~ SP 2013- 139th ~ BW 2013- 17th
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Re: But... it's cheaper THIS way!!!

A follow-up question:  One car I'm considering has almost 200k miles on the original engine. It starts and doesn't rap or smoke, but who knows what will happen the first time it gets red lined.  If I pick up a spare engine at a bone yard and bring it with me so that the whole weekend isn't trashed if the original engine turns out to be a hand grenade on second lap on Saturday, is that included as part of the cost of the car?  If I'm stupid enough to spend all night on Saturday changing out an engine so my team doesn't string me up Sunday morning, will that kind of dedication get BS laps attached?

4 (edited by soldmystang 2009-12-16 09:08 PM)

Re: But... it's cheaper THIS way!!!

dpvog wrote:

Here's a serious question for a ripe lemon or anyone else with some experience going through Le Mons BS inspection.  I've been looking around for a heap to convert into a true Le Mons racer and I've run into a very discouraging problem.  I have found a bunch of cars for sale between 600 and 800 that look like good candidates, and that I could probably, with some determined negotiation, pick up for $500. 

Now, here's the problem.  Once I put in a safe cage, buy a decent racing seat, maybe fix the brakes so no one dies, buy some used wheels, and replace the tires with something decent, now I'm well north of $2500 and sometimes pushing 3k. 

One the other hand, I can find the occasional used (an completely pre-dented) "race car" with a reasonable cage installed, racing seat, two or more sets of tires and wheels, almost all ready to go, for $1200.  That's a price I just can't touch if I try to put something together myself from scratch.  Has anyone else run across this problem, and what do you do about it?  I don't want a million BS laps deducted, but it looks like the cheapest way to race a Le Mon is to find one that's already been squeezed.  But since the exempt safety items like the cage, racing seat, wheels, and tires are folded into the cost of the car, the $500 price just isn't gonna happen.  Since a lot of this race is about being silly and just having fun on a budget, what happens in this sort of a situation?  HELP?

huh?  i think you completely contradicted yourself here bro.  i almost think you did it twice.


buy a $600 street car, sell $200 worth of parts and get it running for the race.  read the rules.


if you show up with a $1200 car you are going to get hammered i believe.  search the forums for an explanation of prepared race cars.

spare motors generally will not get BS laps unless you swap it in after you go thru BS and prior to starting the race.

whatever it was i didn't do it
dorifto dogs E30 - gone but not forgotten

Lee Ho Fook's Racing E36

5 (edited by MurileeMartin 2009-12-16 09:38 PM)

Re: But... it's cheaper THIS way!!!

Spare parts, including engines, aren't considered in the 500-buck limit. However, a "spare engine" that gets swapped in between the BS inspection and the start of the race will make us unhappy if it turns out to be some kinda race-prepped monster and/or the engine that went through the inspection isn't sufficiently broken (e.g., spewed all the exhaust valves out the tailpipe during practice on Friday afternoon) to warrant a swap. In other words, nobody will be driving a super-cheater through the Spare Engine Loophole.

6 (edited by dpvog 2009-12-16 10:10 PM)

Re: But... it's cheaper THIS way!!!

"huh?  i think you completely contradicted yourself here bro.  i almost think you did it twice.
buy a $600 street car, sell $200 worth of parts and get it running for the race.  read the rules.
if you show up with a $1200 car you are going to get hammered i believe.  search the forums for an explanation of prepared race cars."


HUH???  Where is the contradiction?  The term "contradiction" means "a logical inconsistancy." All I'm saying is that a previously raced car is cheaper than one that I prepare myself.  A $1200 car that has a cage, a racing seat, good rubber and good brakes might easily be viewed by a very reasonable person as a $500 car with $700 worth of safety gear.   My point is that a lowly $500 shitbox can, after purchase, VERY QUICKLY become a $2500 car just in the process of making it comply with the Le Mons safety requirements.  Is it really that important from a BS-judging standpoint whether the safety gear was installed before or after I purchased the car?

7 (edited by trekkor 2009-12-16 09:57 PM)

Re: But... it's cheaper THIS way!!!

if you show up with a $1200 car

I guess it depends on how much of that purchase price for the  'old race car' was for the cage, seat, wheels, tires and brakes, that are not included in the $500 limit...
( loophole ).


Have a good time with those fun-loving judges. http://www.914club.com/bbs2/style_emoticons/default/boldblue.gif


KT

TH 2009- 40th ~ SP 2010- 13th Class Bad win!! TH 2010- 17th ~TH 2010- 16th  SP 2011- 20th ~ RF 2011- 13th Least Horrible Yank Tank ~ TH 2011- 79th
SP 2011- 105th ~ SP 2012- 119th ~ SP 2013- 139th ~ BW 2013- 17th
Follow Filthy on Facebook: Flailing Lizard Motorsports

8 (edited by dpvog 2009-12-16 10:15 PM)

Re: But... it's cheaper THIS way!!!

I'm glad you understand my point.  Could you please explain it to soldmystang?  He almost thinks I'm being completely inconsistant..., twice.

Re: But... it's cheaper THIS way!!!

It's in the rules:

•4.1: Total Investment in Vehicle Can Not Exceed $500: Except for items described in Rules 4.2 and 4.3, the total spent to purchase and prepare any car may not exceed $500.
•4.1.1: Lame-Ass Rationalizations: Cars that "should be" worth $500 don't count; cars that "were worth $500" before you spent another $2000 to fix them don't count; cars you've owned for 20 years and spent more than $500 on during that time don't count; "it would have been worth $500 if it didn't already have a cage" doesn't count. Five hundred dollars means five hundred frickin' dollars

Our Lady of Perpetual Downforce
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Re: But... it's cheaper THIS way!!!

I'm at a loss here.

Bills of sale/pink slips mean nothing when you are being sweated by Da Judges.

Have fun!!


KT

TH 2009- 40th ~ SP 2010- 13th Class Bad win!! TH 2010- 17th ~TH 2010- 16th  SP 2011- 20th ~ RF 2011- 13th Least Horrible Yank Tank ~ TH 2011- 79th
SP 2011- 105th ~ SP 2012- 119th ~ SP 2013- 139th ~ BW 2013- 17th
Follow Filthy on Facebook: Flailing Lizard Motorsports

Re: But... it's cheaper THIS way!!!

"it would have been worth $500 if it didn't already have a cage" doesn't count.

This doesn't effect me, but why are we applying value to an item that doesn't count against the $500 limit?
If it isn't already in the car we have to spend money to install it. And it is required.

Cages aren't free. If a $1200 car has a Lemons legal seat, cage and belts, it pretty hard not to call it a free car. These items have a value and should go against the purchase price if they came installed.

We had $500 in our cage, $1000 in the seat and $150 in the belts...

If it were a $3000 dollar car, that would be different.

Get a bill of sale for $200 for the car.
Pay $1000 for the safety items separately.



KT

TH 2009- 40th ~ SP 2010- 13th Class Bad win!! TH 2010- 17th ~TH 2010- 16th  SP 2011- 20th ~ RF 2011- 13th Least Horrible Yank Tank ~ TH 2011- 79th
SP 2011- 105th ~ SP 2012- 119th ~ SP 2013- 139th ~ BW 2013- 17th
Follow Filthy on Facebook: Flailing Lizard Motorsports

Re: But... it's cheaper THIS way!!!

trekkor wrote:

I'm at a loss here.

Bills of sale/pink slips mean nothing when you are being sweated by Da Judges.

Have fun!!

Sure, they mean something. We like seeing paperwork. We might not believe your paperwork, but many otherwise doomed-to-massive-BS-laps teams have sold us on their budget with great documentation. We consider the whole package.

Re: But... it's cheaper THIS way!!!

guys its not that hard...... $500 is $500....its the judges job to determine who has the most "cheatoimum" in their cars (except mine of course)....  if they catch you....you get spanked.....if they don't and you crush the field by 20 laps..guess what...then you get CRUSHED....its a pretty solid formula.... 

Another piece of advice some racer friends told me a long time ago is this:

"its always cheaper to buy a racecar then build one"  Lemons is no different...so you buy the car for somewhere south of $500 and get a receipt...  then pay for the exempt parts separately on another receipt.... 

I'll sell my 928 "estate" for the right price.....which is $500 for the car and $?,??? for the safety equipment

Richard Doty
1984 Porsche 928 "Estate"
Porsche- "there is A substitute" Racing
Dirt Poorsche Racing #2

Re: But... it's cheaper THIS way!!!

dpvog,

You are right and your point is valid and even logical.  Unfortunately, buying a cheap car and converting it into a LeMon is in the rules.  It's a sweat equity investment.  I've got way more than $2500 in my car and the labor is INSANE!!!

Circumventing the sweat equity may upset the Judges as well as the masses and earn you the Curse.

One other problem with buying a built car is that not all cages will pass tech.  So you better understand what you need in order to pass tech.  If it fails and you can't make it right in time for the race, you are out the cost of the car, entry fees and whatever else you spent.  So make sure what you buy fits your goals.

Most race cars have been stripped so you don;t have much to sell off to improve your budget.

Can you really get a race ready car for $1200?  It probably needs a motor or trans or something else if it's that cheap.

As far is built cars go, I bought a complete Celica with a cage and race seat for $200.  Maybe I can deduct a reasonable amount for the cage and seat and get the car in the negative.

I bought a rolling Pinto with a cage for $200 as well.

You are not likely to get Cursed with your approach but you are likely to get BS factor laps.  If you don't like it, buy a cheap crap can and turn it into a Lemons racer yourself. 

You can also buy a race prepped Spec Miata and go run SCCA or NASA.

Good luck.

Troy

#35 LRE
1973 Datsun 240Z

Re: But... it's cheaper THIS way!!!

MurileeMartin wrote:

Sure, they mean something. We like seeing paperwork. We might not believe your paperwork...

I had 'iron clad' paper work... Ask Jonny.

Got 4:30'd and penalty laps, too.
In the end, SO WHAT!

We had the best time EVER!!!

We even have a little secret...


KT

TH 2009- 40th ~ SP 2010- 13th Class Bad win!! TH 2010- 17th ~TH 2010- 16th  SP 2011- 20th ~ RF 2011- 13th Least Horrible Yank Tank ~ TH 2011- 79th
SP 2011- 105th ~ SP 2012- 119th ~ SP 2013- 139th ~ BW 2013- 17th
Follow Filthy on Facebook: Flailing Lizard Motorsports

Re: But... it's cheaper THIS way!!!

dpvog wrote:

I'm glad you understand my point.  Could you please explain it to soldmystang?  He almost thinks I'm being completely inconsistant..., twice.

maybe i misread the intent of the question.  my bad. sad

i would suggest you incorporate a very well thought out and over the top theme if you go this route.  and certainly don't try this with an E30 or a Miata.  smile

search "bribes" also.

whatever it was i didn't do it
dorifto dogs E30 - gone but not forgotten

Lee Ho Fook's Racing E36

Re: But... it's cheaper THIS way!!!

Okay, I've got it.  At least one rule is sort of confused and maybe even a little at odds with another rule, but the rules are the rules, even when there is internal disagreement within the rules themselves.  Bring excellent documentation, write the sale up properly to best illustrate the point you are trying to make, hope for the best, and last but not least, don't question the decision of the racing gods.  We can do that.  Thank you trekkor, Troy, icemang17, and MurileeMartin for the excellent analysis and interpretation.  I'm still trying to decide what to do, but it sure helps to have all the info.

18 (edited by EvergreenDan 2009-12-17 06:55 AM)

Re: But... it's cheaper THIS way!!!

trekkor wrote:

Get a bill of sale for $200 for the car.
Pay $1000 for the safety items separately.

I generally agree, even though the letter of the rules doesn't allow this.

However, lots of pre-built race cars will have tons of cheaty parts,  so that $1200 car that's no longer competitive in the class for which it was built, might be more like a $1000 car with $200 of safety stuff. The builder might have paid 10x for the car and parts over the years, so that $600 cage might represent only $60 of the $1200. I think that's why pre-built race cars are frowned on. That and the cluster of getting some ghetto cage to pass tech.

A $1200 pre-built race car may well get 0 BS laps, but the judges will be pulling out their miner's lights and speculum as you roll up. Take the BS laps as a badge of honor, if it happens.

Near-Orbital Space Monkeys
#528 BMW 528e 121hp Black "Saturn 5" Rocket car with orange foam flames. Sold.
#71 Yellow Fox Mustang. For sale.

19

Re: But... it's cheaper THIS way!!!

Its been said before you can do it if you document it correctly and put valid amounts for the spares and cage but expect to be given a hard time at BS and you still might get some laps.

Also as Troy mentioned make sure the car as is will pass tech.  It sounds like alot of people who go this way find out the roll cages don't meet Lemons tech spec's and they have to cut the cage and rebuild it which would end up more expensive than buying the $600 car.

Racing 4 Nickels - 1989 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera
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Re: But... it's cheaper THIS way!!!

dpvog.  I think it depends on what kind of "occasional used (and completely pre-dented) "race car"" you are talking about.

For example, If we were to sell our car it would be for $375.00 (the residual assigned to it by Jay after the last race) and you would have to also buy everything else attached to it for $xxx.xx.  We would give you two separate receipts detailing exactly what each check paid for.  I think this would fly with the judges and get you no more penality laps over and above the ones we may have gotten with the exact same car.

But, if your "occasional used (and completely pre-dented) "race car"" is an ex-NASCAR ride that your buddy, Jeff Gordon, sold you for a "mere" $1,200.  I doubt you could get away with saying $700.00 of that price is for the safety gear.

Re: But... it's cheaper THIS way!!!

What about this car
I have changed my mind and will let seat go with car for asking price. This car does have a good cage and also a quick detach steering wheel. I really need to move this car to make room for a new one. Make me an offer!!!
Above Added: Thu October 29, 2009, 12:56 pm EST
I have a 1992 Chevy Cavalier with a 2.2 four cylinder. The car is a fwd with a 5 speed trans. The motor in the car is bone stock with only 8 races since it was gone through and new bearings and rings were put in This car is a proven top 3 car in a u car class with a rookie female driver. Car is not a show piece as it has been raced.The pic shown is from begining of season. If person is interested contact me by email or by phone and will send more recent pics. The car comes race ready except racing seat. This car is fast and very dependable. It also has new struts and tie rods on both sides. For any additional info please call Shannon at 276 340 5176


http://www.racingjunk.com/category/69/M … Ready.html

Re: But... it's cheaper THIS way!!!

BlackSheep1 wrote:

dpvog.  We would give you two separate receipts detailing exactly what each check paid for.

In God we trust.  All others pay in CASH!!!

Waterboyrrh wrote:

What about this car
I have changed my mind and will let seat go with car for asking price. This car does have a good cage and also a quick detach steering wheel. I really need to move this car to make room for a new one. Make me an offer!!!
Above Added: Thu October 29, 2009, 12:56 pm EST
I have a 1992 Chevy Cavalier with a 2.2 four cylinder. The car is a fwd with a 5 speed trans. The motor in the car is bone stock with only 8 races since it was gone through and new bearings and rings were put in This car is a proven top 3 car in a u car class with a rookie female driver. Car is not a show piece as it has been raced.The pic shown is from begining of season. If person is interested contact me by email or by phone and will send more recent pics. The car comes race ready except racing seat. This car is fast and very dependable. It also has new struts and tie rods on both sides. For any additional info please call Shannon at 276 340 5176

I don't know what "U Car Class" is so you better look it over very closely to determine if it should pass tech. 

Remember, there are no refunds.

Troy

#35 LRE
1973 Datsun 240Z

Re: But... it's cheaper THIS way!!!

trekkor wrote:

Got 4:30'd and penalty laps, too.
In the end, SO WHAT!

We had the best time EVER!!!


KT

Dude, Trekkor could be Rookie of the Year for that.

If we had a Rookie of the Year.

Re: But... it's cheaper THIS way!!!

Waterboyrrh wrote:

What about this car
I have changed my mind and will let seat go with car for asking price. This car does have a good cage and also a quick detach steering wheel. I really need to move this car to make room for a new one. Make me an offer!!!
Above Added: Thu October 29, 2009, 12:56 pm EST
I have a 1992 Chevy Cavalier with a 2.2 four cylinder. The car is a fwd with a 5 speed trans. The motor in the car is bone stock with only 8 races since it was gone through and new bearings and rings were put in This car is a proven top 3 car in a u car class with a rookie female driver. Car is not a show piece as it has been raced.The pic shown is from begining of season. If person is interested contact me by email or by phone and will send more recent pics. The car comes race ready except racing seat. This car is fast and very dependable. It also has new struts and tie rods on both sides. For any additional info please call Shannon at 276 340 5176


http://www.racingjunk.com/category/69/M … Ready.html

Just because it is "race ready" for their class does not mean that it passes safety for ours. If your serious about it then have them send you detailed pics pf the cage and verify that it fits within our guidelines. Bent coat hangers for a cage doesnt fly well.

Re: But... it's cheaper THIS way!!!

trekkor wrote:

Got 4:30'd ...

Can someone translate that into Old Fart for me, please?

Looking at the photo of the Cavalier, it looks like at a minimum it needs a main hoop diagonal. Check for legal door bars, legal tubing diameter/thickness/type (ERW or DOM), the welds are solid and all the way around the tubing, and the footing plates are solid and the harness bar lines up with the seat grommets. If you're serious about the car and have questions, get and post detailed photos of the cage.

Near-Orbital Space Monkeys
#528 BMW 528e 121hp Black "Saturn 5" Rocket car with orange foam flames. Sold.
#71 Yellow Fox Mustang. For sale.