Aw they just arent doing it right, i want one of our next egr projects to be ghetto charged, im talking to you Richard!!
Ok i though i should also throw out a few more things for those of you bringing cars to dyno. please add anything you feel John.
1. Tow hooks, if you dont have any good, strong, large, easy to reach one, install them!!! this is the #1, again the #1 thing that slows us down when dynoing a car, BMWs are usually the best at not having a good set of rear hooks, and no we wont grab on to the bodged on bumper you tack welded onto the plastic trim, it aint safe.
2. Exhuast, if your car needs new exhaust for the race it needs it for the dyno, low hanging or dangerous exhaust is more thatn just a pain because the "max super flow" mufflers are being ground to bits by the roller of the dyno. when the lift on the dyno goes down the car must have at least 4" of ground clearance around the drive axle, we had many head aches with slammed vws and nissans, etc bottoming out on the dyno center. So raise those cheater "eBay" coilovers to max if you can.
3. Gauges, does you car have them? of course how silly of a question, i ment do they work??? Im not talking about speedo or the clock, we need a working tach and a temp guage that you know to be somewhat accurate so we can all jump up and run out of the building and press the record button on the camera as the car explodes from doing that driving thing these cars should be able to. oh oil pressure would help too but then again its not my car and im not cleaning it up... we need a tach to help calibrate the dyno rpm to the engine rpm, if you absolutley can not get one, we can use a timing light to do it but we wont be nice about it.
4. Your cars Stats, its your car and you know it best so please feel free to let us know what it limits are. Such limits we like to know is the safe RPM range ( just becuase your super duper sunpro tach goes to 11k doesnt mean you shit box can too, that is unless its a downshifting Diahatsu) the temp at which the very center core of the 30 year old clogged radiator with begin nuclear Fusion and start the substantial chain reaction that explodes the cooling system, rotarys like to do this well. Which gear you wish to test in, usually its 3rd or 4th, whatever is 1:1 or closest to that. On a simular note for you poor souls stuck with an autobox, please, if you can, find a repeatable method to make your tranny stay in the test gear for a full pull, find the minumum RPM you can drive at in test gear, and floor it or roll on it heavily and it will NOT downshift, this will save alot of time and make getting a clean reading so much easier. weather its a modified kick down cable/switch or just a secret handshake with the shift knob. Finally those with FWD cars if you can get the front end aligned prior to the test, it will make controlling the beast a less difficult chore eliminating the possblity of eliminating your fellow racers. Oh also bring some good ear muffs if you wish to be in the same room as the tourturing, it gets noisy.