Topic: Cage tubing question

We are currently doing a lot of hacking to our car and are about to make a rear cage section out of some iron gas pipe we found in the trash. We already have a cage that passed tech last year, is it going to be a problem if we try to tie our black pipe section into the nice DOM stuff?
We all understand that DOM is better, but we also aren't so found of the price.
I don't see how it would seriously change (decrease) the effectiveness of the 6pt setup we have currently.
We need to add something just trying to do it cheaply. We would perfer to just build it up with scraps so the rear of the car doesn't fall off next race.

Re: Cage tubing question

The problem with trying to tie in additional sections of pipe into your cage is that you can seriously degrade its structural integrity and therefore your safety. Unless you are a competent welder and understand the geometries necessary to modify your original cage to tie in additional elements while maintaining the same level of safety I'd look for another way.

Stuntman Mike
I Wanna Roc

Re: Cage tubing question

Dude, I'm not a tech inspector, I don't play one on TV and I didn't sleep at a Holiday Inn Express last night, so take this with the appropriate grain of salt. If this were my ride, I'd never incorporate black pipe into the cage design, mainly because I think it would stand a good chance of getting the car DQ'd in tech. Bear this in mind:

"3.1.1: Rollbar Tubing and Padding:  No muffler tubing, no water pipe, no electrical conduit, etc."

I suspect that black pipe fits into that broad "etc." category. YMMV. Cheers.

Pat Mulry, TARP Racing #67

Mandatory disclaimer: all opinions expressed are mine alone & not those of 24HOL, its mgmt, sponsors, etc.

Re: Cage tubing question

Yeah, castoff mystery pipe for another application is pretty far into the "likely will fail tech" realm. While we don't currently require DOM tubing, it is highly recommended--if you aren't going to use DOM, you've gotta use the next best thing (race-car grade--if you're not sure what that means, consult a pro). Though we've got no way of knowing the exact spec of the mystery pipe, Mulry's assumption that it falls into the "etc" category is a good one to follow.

Re: Cage tubing question

Black pipe has a higher iron content than DOM or mild steel, which makes it less strong and more brittle.  It is NOT recommended for any structural use.  You're nutz for even thinking of this...

ASTM A53, BS 1387, DIN2440, BS EN39, ASTM,BS1387,JIS,DIN,EN39

"Age only matters if you're a cheese."  Helen Hayes

Re: Cage tubing question

Nick_LeMonsHQ wrote:

Yeah, castoff mystery pipe for another application is pretty far into the "likely will fail tech" realm. While we don't currently require DOM tubing, it is highly recommended--if you aren't going to use DOM, you've gotta use the next best thing (race-car grade--if you're not sure what that means, consult a pro). Though we've got no way of knowing the exact spec of the mystery pipe, Mulry's assumption that it falls into the "etc" category is a good one to follow.

The only two choices I'm aware of for a roll cage is DOM (drawn over mandrel) and ERW (electrical resistance welded).  For those that don't know, ERW is the stuff with a seam along the long axis on the tube where it's joined together.  Most sanctioning bodies will now allow only DOM unless you are grandfathered in with a car and log book that used ERW. 

What is worse is we saw several (like more than 5 near our pit) cars with nice DOM tubing, notched, nice welds, etc., with NO foot plates or anything where the tubing met the unibody.  In a roll over these will punch right through the floor like a pencil through paper.  The rules state to use proper foot plates but these cars were still passed by tech. 

Just beacuse they MAY let you get by with it doesn't mean you should do it.  The compromise in your safety (and the rest of your team) isn't worth it.  Get DOM and be glad you did.

Captain
Team Super Westerfield Bros.
'93 Acura Integra - No VTEC Yo!

Re: Cage tubing question

One thing to think about is that Lemons HQ is getting more serious about our safety.
I can imagine that one of the next steps will be the requirement for DOM for all Roll cages. I for one would go for the extra cost of DOM just to keep my head inside my helmet instead of all over the track. It's not worth the headache of not passing tech for bad welds, improper mounting or wrong pipe/tubing to begin with. IMO

Team: V-Ram/Altamont Team: Knights of the Round Track/Reno/Buttonwillow/Thunderhill Team: Death Mobile/Sears 2010/Thunderhill/ChumpCar  Spokane/ MSR Houston/Buttonwillow/Sears. MRolla Project /Reno
http://stickfigureracing.blogspot.com/

8 (edited by LTDScott 2009-06-01 06:52 PM)

Re: Cage tubing question

Rather than start a new thread, I have a question about the new cage rules, specifically this from 3.1: complete
360-degree welds at all joints.

Does this mean I will have to weld all of the joints that are currently bolted together on the Autopower cage (which Autopower themselves installed at their headquarters) in my car? If so, how does one go about welding around joints that are butt up against A and B pillars without prying the roof off the car?

It looks like I now have a shit ton of work to do on a car that otherwise only required a tune up to go racing. I'm sure I'm not the only one in this boat either :\

The Homer: Powerful like a gorilla, yet soft and yielding like a Nerf ball.

Re: Cage tubing question

Oh well I never would use it for the primary cage itself, this was more related to a "rear cage structure" We were not planning on really calling this part of things a safety thing, its really more of a keep the rear of the car attached thing.
Our existing cage was perfectly legal last year.I gueess after reading my email we will be having to buy some more DOM tubing for another door bar.  Perhaps we will just find some extra money for the tubes required for the rear cage thingy we wanna do. Just hope as a result that is "safety" budget not part of our $200 to play with (we have 300 as our residual from last year)

10

Re: Cage tubing question

LTDScott wrote:

Does this mean I will have to weld all of the joints that are currently bolted together on the Autopower cage (which Autopower themselves installed at their headquarters) in my car? If so, how does one go about welding around joints that are butt up against A and B pillars without prying the roof off the car?

I'm sure I'm not the only one in this boat either :\

+1

Team Formula BMW
Finishing order: 44th, 44th, 19th, 10th, 5th, 10th, 5th
We will win some day smile

Re: Cage tubing question

I know it's probably not a fully satisfactory answer, but at least you can get grandfathered in:

"3.1.5: Waivers: Previously entered Lemons cars that don't meet the above specs must upgrade their equipment or apply for an individual grandfather waiver before showing up for the race. Be warned: Waivers aren't automatically granted."

But I'm betting that the guys who have rides being built and maintained in professional shops are less likely than home garage teams, and I'd bet that grandfathering doesn't last long either. I guess it's the early adopter/bleeding edge penalty again. Sorry guys.

Pat Mulry, TARP Racing #67

Mandatory disclaimer: all opinions expressed are mine alone & not those of 24HOL, its mgmt, sponsors, etc.

Re: Cage tubing question

I'm sure that bolt-in bars/cages will always be legal, given as they have been proven to be just as safe as welded cages.  That is, as long as you use Grade 8, Grade 12 or AN/M-S hardware.  Cheap-ass Grade 5/Grade 3 stuff will snap faster than you can say "rollover."

John

"Age only matters if you're a cheese."  Helen Hayes

Re: Cage tubing question

Hmm now that I read the rules more carefully, I think we may be okay. Here's what our current cage looks like:

http://www.autopowerindustries.com/Images/lg/DSC_2840.jpg

All of the joints are welded together. The only bolt together connections are on the straight parts of the tube (you can see the "collars" with bolts on the top windshield bar and the door bar).

I know I have to add an extra door bar. I'm not sure if it should be higher or lower than the current bar. Any higher will seriously impede our ability to get in/out of the car.

http://www.ltdlx.org/albums/cageinstall/Image096_001.jpg

I'll wait for clarification before jumping to any conclusions.

The Homer: Powerful like a gorilla, yet soft and yielding like a Nerf ball.

Re: Cage tubing question

I'm in the exact same boat as Scott.  I suspect we will want to add our door bars below the existing bar.  The standard Autpower door bars are already a hike to get over.

Quad4 CRX - Wartburg 311 - Civic Wagovan - Parnelli Jones Galaxie - LS400 - Lancia MR2 - Boat - Sentra - 56 Ford Victoria
Known Associate of 3pedal Mafia, Speedycop, and the Russians.  Maybe even NSF.

Re: Cage tubing question

I am not as concerned about the door bars or the dash bar as I am of the Full Front Hoop
"cage must include: Full front and rear hoop, appropriately braced to each other along the roofline; two drivers-side door bars (X-design is acceptable); appropriate main-hoop backstays with no bends, located as close to 45 degrees from horizontal as practical; one main-hoop diagonal; appropriate spreader plates and gussets; complete 360-degree welds at all joints. Each hoop and bar must be formed from its own single, continuous tube."

As I understand this I would say at least half of the cages won't meet this specification. In our car we run the standard rear hoop with a roof hoop that is connected by two pillar bars that run down along the window pillar to the floor.
Others run two pillar bars that run along the roof line back to the the rear hoop, with a bar connecting both sides along the front window.
I hope for clarification on this one, from Lemons HQ

Team: V-Ram/Altamont Team: Knights of the Round Track/Reno/Buttonwillow/Thunderhill Team: Death Mobile/Sears 2010/Thunderhill/ChumpCar  Spokane/ MSR Houston/Buttonwillow/Sears. MRolla Project /Reno
http://stickfigureracing.blogspot.com/

16 (edited by VKZ24 2009-06-02 07:38 AM)

Re: Cage tubing question

Bender/StickFigureRacing wrote:

As I understand this I would say at least half of the cages won't meet this specification. In our car we run the standard rear hoop with a roof hoop that is connected by two pillar bars that run down along the window pillar to the floor.
Others run two pillar bars that run along the roof line back to the the rear hoop, with a bar connecting both sides along the front window.
I hope for clarification on this one, from Lemons HQ

What you descibe is the only two ways I've ever seen a cage built.  Either a halo design (your first example) or the alternative in your second example.  Since the halo method requires the halo loop to be more pefect when fabbed (less room for error) we are using the alternative method.

Captain
Team Super Westerfield Bros.
'93 Acura Integra - No VTEC Yo!

Re: Cage tubing question

VKZ24 wrote:
Bender/StickFigureRacing wrote:

As I understand this I would say at least half of the cages won't meet this specification. In our car we run the standard rear hoop with a roof hoop that is connected by two pillar bars that run down along the window pillar to the floor.
Others run two pillar bars that run along the roof line back to the the rear hoop, with a bar connecting both sides along the front window.
I hope for clarification on this one, from Lemons HQ

What you descibe is the only two ways I've ever seen a cage built.  Either a halo design (your first example) or the alternative in your second example.  Since the halo method requires the halo loop to be more pefect when fabbed (less room for error) we are using the alternative method.

I know it's a little confusing, but the way I understand the rule, the front hoop is one continuous bend. Jeeps, and convertibles  are pretty much the only ones I have seen a full front hoop. Example: http://www.offroaders.com/jeepfan/rollbar.htm
Maybe I think too much, My head is hurting!

Team: V-Ram/Altamont Team: Knights of the Round Track/Reno/Buttonwillow/Thunderhill Team: Death Mobile/Sears 2010/Thunderhill/ChumpCar  Spokane/ MSR Houston/Buttonwillow/Sears. MRolla Project /Reno
http://stickfigureracing.blogspot.com/

18 (edited by bongle 2009-06-02 08:04 AM)

Re: Cage tubing question

VKZ24 wrote:
Bender/StickFigureRacing wrote:

As I understand this I would say at least half of the cages won't meet this specification. In our car we run the standard rear hoop with a roof hoop that is connected by two pillar bars that run down along the window pillar to the floor.
Others run two pillar bars that run along the roof line back to the the rear hoop, with a bar connecting both sides along the front window.
I hope for clarification on this one, from Lemons HQ

What you descibe is the only two ways I've ever seen a cage built.  Either a halo design (your first example) or the alternative in your second example.  Since the halo method requires the halo loop to be more pefect when fabbed (less room for error) we are using the alternative method.

Even NASA (sections 15.6.8, 15.6.9, and 15.6.10) permits halo or left/right hoop designs, I really hope that they are still permitted configurations.

On the NASA note, they also permit less-strong tubing for cars under 2500lbs than the Lemons rules currently allow.  Section 15.6.18 permits 1.5x0.095 DOM for cars weighing between 1500 and 2500lbs.

Car to Pit telemetry (OBD2, GPS, and analog inputs) with little more than a phone, router, and laptop.  It's not MacGuyver, it's WifiLapper (forum | facebook)

Re: Cage tubing question

I think that Paul's really stumbled onto something here. Looking at the Autopower cage above, it doesn't have a continuous 1-piece front hoop. Few cars do. But I don't think that the intent of this change was to force everyone to rebuild their cages. It's just going to need a little more re-work. I'm confident that Jay is now aware of the problem and will address it.

Pat Mulry, TARP Racing #67

Mandatory disclaimer: all opinions expressed are mine alone & not those of 24HOL, its mgmt, sponsors, etc.

Re: Cage tubing question

Yeah I think we should all wait on jumping to conclusions until we get some clarifications from Nick or some other official. They're probably not even awake yet. It's clear that there's a lot of concerns/questions/confusion about the newest cage rules and I'm sure they'll get addressed shortly.

The Homer: Powerful like a gorilla, yet soft and yielding like a Nerf ball.

Re: Cage tubing question

LTDScott wrote:

Yeah I think we should all wait on jumping to conclusions until we get some clarifications from Nick or some other official. They're probably not even awake yet. It's clear that there's a lot of concerns/questions/confusion about the newest cage rules and I'm sure they'll get addressed shortly.

A BMW driver coming to a reasonable conclusion? What will happen next, cats living with dogs? smile Cheers.

Pat Mulry, TARP Racing #67

Mandatory disclaimer: all opinions expressed are mine alone & not those of 24HOL, its mgmt, sponsors, etc.

22 (edited by RobL 2009-06-02 10:41 AM)

Re: Cage tubing question

I was actually coming over here to post about that.  None of the cages that I have done have this.  I think that examples are needed.

As far as the front continuous hoop, this is what has now become mandatory:
http://www.hoverd.org/Tim/Fury/images/roll_cage_design_01.gif

As opposed to (Left and Right bars):
http://speed-eng.com/store/images/Roll%20Cage.jpg

or (Halo loop):
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/images/cages/rollcagedrawing1.gif

edit:added descriptions to the pictures

--Rob Leone Schumacher Taxi Service
We won the IOE at Southern Discomfort.
We got screwed at The Real Hoopties of New Jersey  and we took cars down with us.
We got the curse at Capitol Offense but they wouldn't let us destroy the car.

Re: Cage tubing question

RobL wrote:

I was actually coming over here to post about that.  None of the cages that I have done have this.  I think that examples are needed.

As far as the front continuous hoop, this is what has now become mandatory:
http://www.hoverd.org/Tim/Fury/images/r … ign_01.gif

Wow.  If that is so, a LOT of us are screwed that are building new cars for upcoming events.  I'm sure finding a reasonably priced caged of that design is more than likely non-existent.

Captain
Team Super Westerfield Bros.
'93 Acura Integra - No VTEC Yo!

Re: Cage tubing question

RobL wrote:

I was actually coming over here to post about that.  None of the cages that I have done have this.  I think that examples are needed.

As far as the front continuous hoop, this is what has now become mandatory:
http://www.hoverd.org/Tim/Fury/images/r … ign_01.gif

As opposed to:
http://speed-eng.com/store/images/Roll%20Cage.jpg

or:
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_li … awing1.gif

Thanks Rob for the illustrations, I think we can use these as a starting point to see if we need to do major changes, hopefully not.

Team: V-Ram/Altamont Team: Knights of the Round Track/Reno/Buttonwillow/Thunderhill Team: Death Mobile/Sears 2010/Thunderhill/ChumpCar  Spokane/ MSR Houston/Buttonwillow/Sears. MRolla Project /Reno
http://stickfigureracing.blogspot.com/

25

Re: Cage tubing question

Except the bolt-in design from Autopower is legal for both SCCA and NASA racing - http://www.autopowerindustries.com/rollcages.asp

Team Formula BMW
Finishing order: 44th, 44th, 19th, 10th, 5th, 10th, 5th
We will win some day smile