Re: Accepted front-hoop configurations for roll cages

rudedog wrote:

We got our "kit" from AutoWeld, it is their 10PT cage built for an 88EscortGT, which is the same body as my 89EscortLX.
http://web.inetba.com/autoweld/images/10ptn.jpg

My question is would it be acceptable for the "second door bar" to be added from the center of the kit's door bar at a downward angle toward the rear of the door opening? In red below.
http://www.snipersho.com/pics/Rudyspics … 5b1%5d.jpg

For this setup, we've been advising people to make an "X." You should use two pieces to form a straight line intersecting with the existing bar. This is actually a nice solution--good protection and pretty good ease of entry/exit.

Re: Accepted front-hoop configurations for roll cages

If we are using two (or 3) horizontal door bars in parallel with each other, there is no requirement for uprights to connect the two, right?

The Homer: Powerful like a gorilla, yet soft and yielding like a Nerf ball.

Re: Accepted front-hoop configurations for roll cages

Nick; I have a question/concern about wording that I know you clarified in the first post, but;

3.1: Rollbar and Structure: Professionally made full roll cage required. A poorly built, improperly mounted, or badly engineered rollcage can keep you from racing: Don't show up with crap! At minimum, cage must include: Full front and rear hoop, appropriately braced to each other along the roofline; two drivers-side door bars (X-design is acceptable); appropriate main-hoop backstays with no bends, located as close to 45 degrees from horizontal as practical; one main-hoop diagonal; appropriate spreader plates and gussets; complete 360-degree welds at all joints. Each major load-bearing member must be formed from its own single, continuous tube. Shoulder-harness bars strongly encouraged, and virtually necessary for proper shoulder-harness mounting in some applications; dash bars very strongly encouraged.

this part; At minimum, cage must include: Full front and rear hoop, appropriately braced to each other along the roofline;  makes it sound as if the first cage you posted,

Single-piece front hoop:
http://www.hoverd.org/Tim/Fury/images/roll_cage_design_01.gif
is the ONLY acceptable cage design, as this is the only design you posted a picture of that technically meets the requirement for "a full front hoop". the other designs aren't actually a "single, continuous tube" forming a complete hoop forward of the driver. Let me point out that:

a)Halo Hoop: you have a full main/rear hoop, with a top hoop directly attached to it. This is braced to the floor via the A-pillar/firewall, not via the roofline by attachments.  We have this design currently on our 98 Crown Vic and there's been a bit of discussion on whether or not this is legal as my dad's a retired mechanical engineer and the car's owner.

b)Right and Left Bars: well, these aren't actually Hoops at all, and the ends attach perpendicular to one another, making these, at best, "arches" as defined in geometry. Other point about this configuration even if we state that by attachment to the main/rear hoop, each bar itself qualifies as a major load-bearing, continuous hoop as we've defined, It's still not a "FRONT HOOP".
They collectively would be "side hoops".

See what I'm getting at with the way the rules are worded? Some are very likely to still be concerned with it and they may not have the forethought to dig around these forums, or, still have reservations that weren't explicitly addressed in this thread.

One last Question; We have a custom-made Halo Hoop 10point cage almost exactly like Rudedog has posted, and were discussing ways to add a diagonal. My thought was to Weld in the bar at/near the same attachment point as the driver's side backstay, and run it down to the floor immediately behind the passenger-side main/rear hoop attachment point. The other would be attaching it to the same point at the top of the bar, and running it down forward of the hoop, and attaching it to the single passenger-side doorbar(even forward enough to meet the doorbar's floor brace or A-pillar bar). Are any of these acceptable? If so, which? Realistically, we are trying to accomplish the most simple way of modifying the cage to meet spec, by eliminating possibly unnecessary cutting of braces that are already present in the cage.

Re: Accepted front-hoop configurations for roll cages

LTDScott wrote:

If we are using two (or 3) horizontal door bars in parallel with each other, there is no requirement for uprights to connect the two, right?

Nick, you never replied. Can you please clarify?

The Homer: Powerful like a gorilla, yet soft and yielding like a Nerf ball.

Re: Accepted front-hoop configurations for roll cages

Scott, that is the way ours has been forever... I think it's correct.

Re: Accepted front-hoop configurations for roll cages

shit...we've never had a diagonal behind the driver's seat in the past 2 races we ran with our car....guess i'll need to add one huh.

Re: Accepted front-hoop configurations for roll cages

davebs14 wrote:

Would any of these be acceptable?

#1
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p181 … lCage2.jpg

This leads me to believe that it would be acceptable for the two door bars to be nearly touching at the 'A' pillar then spread apart as they run towards the 'B' pillar?

In our car the X design would be the most dangerous, because it would be nearly impossible to get out of the car even with help.

-Martin
Team SHOtime
1986 Formula 1 Benetton racing livery
Old themes - M*A*S*H - Red Rocket Rat car

Re: Accepted front-hoop configurations for roll cages

Cage for MGB

looking at photos of cages on race cars.com to see how the scca guys do their cages. Most only seem to have 1 main hoop. They are 6 point. With door braces. Its an open top car. Is this allowed. Spent 1/2 the night redoing the roll cage for the mini cooper at MSR houston. Want to get it right this time.

pasted a link
http://www.race-cars.com/carsold/mg/120 … 6841pp.htm

couldn't make the link work but it can be cut and pasted

this isn't our car !!!  just looking for pics to take to the cage builder

Regards
Paul

Re: Accepted front-hoop configurations for roll cages

I don't think that MGB cage would pass Lemons tech these days, and since this is a "new" car, it wouldn't be eligible for the grandfathering rule either.

FWIW, here's the cage we ran on our topless car at Nelson Ledges. It passed tech without modification:

http://tarp.hailming.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/100_19841.jpg

Pat Mulry, TARP Racing #67

Mandatory disclaimer: all opinions expressed are mine alone & not those of 24HOL, its mgmt, sponsors, etc.

60 (edited by "Sparky" Pete 2009-12-18 01:13 PM)

Re: Accepted front-hoop configurations for roll cages

Trust me.... you want a full cage.

<-----

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Re: Accepted front-hoop configurations for roll cages

Yea we went with a 10 point. We had a local shop build a pre bent one for us.. the difference for the upgrade was $250 vs $320. We figured we wanted to have an over engineered cage. Plus the fact that we ran the rear supports all the way to the tail light panel has really kept the truck area in tact. After getting bumped in the back end a few times you can see where its kept the cars form in tact.

We also X ed the rear bars that went from the hoop to the rear wheel wells.

EuroTrash E30 - Lemons South 08 (cooling probs) 24th /CMP  Spring 09 (fuel tank damage) one day on track 69th /Lemons South 09 (Hit by an Escort) 27th
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Re: Accepted front-hoop configurations for roll cages

Do you see anything wrong with starting with a kit like so and adding some rear bars?  It would seem to meet the reqs but sometimes it's better to ask.

http://www.racepartsusa.com/shop/files/images/d_1739.jpg

from here: http://www.racepartsusa.com/shop/produc … amp;page=1


Hard to beat the price for pre-bent and cut parts.

thanks much

Re: Accepted front-hoop configurations for roll cages

That looks like a good start so long as your car is under 3,000 pounds. Otherwise the steel isn't thick enough. Just make sure to add in the main hoop backstays and the main hoop diagonal and that you have the harness bar in the right place for your seat. There were a ton of tech DQ's at Houston for folks not having the harness bar in the right place for their seat.

The one thing that you might want to consider is that they are likely using ERW tubing at that price. DOM steel is "highly recommended;" a lot of teams that are doing new cages are using DOM steel just in case that recommendation becomes a requirement in the future. Just something to consider. Good luck.

Pat Mulry, TARP Racing #67

Mandatory disclaimer: all opinions expressed are mine alone & not those of 24HOL, its mgmt, sponsors, etc.

Re: Accepted front-hoop configurations for roll cages

IF YOU ARE LOOKING FOR A NICE CAGE CHECK OUT WWW.LEFTHANDERCHASSIS.COM THEY HAVE SOME REALLY NICE ONES THAT COME PERKNOCHED AND READY TO WELD JUST SOME MINOR TRIMING NEEDED.

If its not broke fix it till it is...

Re: Accepted front-hoop configurations for roll cages

It's been my experience that the worst spellers make the best welders.

Re: Accepted front-hoop configurations for roll cages

At Houston 2/2010, there were many many teams with roll cage inspection issues and the line for the fab shop at the track was long and they welded into the night.  It was obvious that folks had not read the latest rules regarding diagonal and seat braces.  I guess I'm preaching to choir here, but new teams need to be prepared!

----------
Scott
Speed Racer Mach5 Mustang
Houston TX

Re: Accepted front-hoop configurations for roll cages

#1 thing I see blatantly overlooked in this thread

the downward DIAGONAL needs to be one piece, the HARNESS BAR does not neeeeed to be one piece.

a lot of the cage kits fail this spending 2 seconds skimming thru this thread.

Mike Peters
Former rotary brat pioneer.
3.17.08 Jalopnik Hoon of the day.  #hasbeen
1984 Dodge Rampage, A few SHO engines, a Mustang 8.8, and a lot of hot glue going on now.

68 (edited by Doug I 2010-02-23 01:53 PM)

Re: Accepted front-hoop configurations for roll cages

I would assume that a cage that has been Lemons approved at previous races may not pass with respect to the discussion/models in this thread?

ie there is no grandfathering passing of cages, correct?

Re: Accepted front-hoop configurations for roll cages

Correct.
At CMP we were told we needed to make some changes to the cage in our multiple-race veteran Mark VIII to comply with the new rules.

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Re: Accepted front-hoop configurations for roll cages

Thanks !!  added this item to the list of things to verify.

Re: Accepted front-hoop configurations for roll cages

Just a note to people who are looking for pre-bent cages.  If you're looking at doing multiple cars, a tubing bender is a REALLY good investment.  We got ours from http://www.pro-tools.com/200.htm and it works beautifully.  It's an $800 tool, but it pays for itself in 2 cages.  We've built 4 cages so far, and will be doing 2 more this year.

As far as door bars, I would always put stays between the bars.  That's one area you really don't want to skimp on.  A cage failure in your door bar or main hoop can kill you.

Dave Heinig - Schumacher Taxi Service
coROLLa - 2 time loser, RWB MR2 - 5 time loser
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Re: Accepted front-hoop configurations for roll cages

Doug I wrote:

I would assume that a cage that has been Lemons approved at previous races may not pass with respect to the discussion/models in this thread?

ie there is no grandfathering passing of cages, correct?

3.1.5: Waivers: Previously entered Lemons cars that don't meet the above specs must upgrade their equipment or apply for an individual grandfather waiver before showing up for the race. Be warned: Waivers aren't automatically granted.

Didnt happen for us

1980 Chevy Malibu Classic

Re: Accepted front-hoop configurations for roll cages

Probably a lot easier (and safer) to just upgrade and be done with it rather than deal with the hassle of UPSing cases of scotch to apply for a waiver.

Re: Accepted front-hoop configurations for roll cages

Nick,

We have a new driver and he is TALL.   Can we extend the roll bar outside the top of the car to meet his helmet requirements? (2 inches above the helmet). 
If yes,  how does the pipe welding have to be done?   I envisioned a square framing the top of the car and welded in at 4 points to the existing roll bar. 

thanks

Re: Accepted front-hoop configurations for roll cages

You could cut the roof off, make the bar as tall as it needs to be and reattach the roof with extensions in the pillars.  Kinda the opposite of chopping a top.  Do it all above the glass though so it's easier to make.

BRE Datsun (Broke Racing Effluence) formerly Dawn of the Zed Racing
'74 260Z
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