The 24 Hours of Lemons Forums → Lemons Tech → Lemons-spec coolant pipe
We're going mid-engine and need to get coolant up front. I was going to use $.20/ft PVC pipe, but it seems it might not be able to stand up to the temps. Looking for more ideas.
We're going mid-engine and need to get coolant up front. I was going to use $.20/ft PVC pipe, but it seems it might not be able to stand up to the temps. Looking for more ideas.
Check into using CPVC, which is designed for hot water. I don't know exactly how hot, but it is designed for it where regular PVC is cold water only.
I would only use metal pipes with reinforced rubber hose connectors (radiator hoses) if they go through the passenger compartment the tubes have to be metal or braided stainless.
You can also use electrical conduit. This way you can weld a bead on any joint so that the hoses don't slip off.
Or leftover roll bar tubing
1 1/4 inch copper works well, can be a bit pricey though unless you "find" some
Just remember that Nomex is fire resistant, not scalded by 180 degree water resistant. Be careful. This sounds sketchy
i woldn't use pvc or cpvc on a car. too easy to crack. best idea is metal conduit. braze the joints together. it's lighweight, will hold the pressure, and hold that extra 2 gallons or so of water everybody's looking for....
I used 1 3/4" exhaust pipe ($ 8.50 for a ten foot piece) on the bottom "hose" and 1 1/2 pipe on the "top" just cut the original hose in the middle somewhere and use universal muffler hangers & clamps to secure. Then wrap with some type of flame retardant insulation. I ran the pipes under the body. Also don't forget about the wiring, fuel lines, p/s lines, vacuum for booster, ect..... What kind of "car"?
Absolutely exhaust pipe. It will withstand the water, heat, pressure and vibration. It is cheap, easy to work with and safe.
That electrical conduit is about the same $8 price at home deep and seems easier to work with, so I may go with that. I have 3 houses here that are about to be torn down too. Definitely going to nab the hot water circulation pump from one.
Not to help your car be more reliable but iff you can; put the pipe at a slightly upward angle towards the radiator or make sure its perfectly level. You want the air to float away from the engine as the liquid is circulated.
Absolutely exhaust pipe. It will withstand the water, heat, pressure and vibration. It is cheap, easy to work with and safe.
+1
It was good enough for Toyota (MR2). I've used it before. Just use rubber hose for any turns (I go to the auto parts store and pick out a hose that has the bends in it I need), and pipe for the straights. Works great.
Modelwerks wrote:Absolutely exhaust pipe. It will withstand the water, heat, pressure and vibration. It is cheap, easy to work with and safe.
+1
It was good enough for Toyota (MR2). I've used it before. Just use rubber hose for any turns (I go to the auto parts store and pick out a hose that has the bends in it I need), and pipe for the straights. Works great.
Mandrel bent piping with a decent welder works too...
Spinnetti wrote:Modelwerks wrote:Absolutely exhaust pipe. It will withstand the water, heat, pressure and vibration. It is cheap, easy to work with and safe.
+1
It was good enough for Toyota (MR2). I've used it before. Just use rubber hose for any turns (I go to the auto parts store and pick out a hose that has the bends in it I need), and pipe for the straights. Works great.
Mandrel bent piping with a decent welder works too...
Assuming you have a mandrel bender or budget to buy the bends and a decent welder (I do). But then if they have all that, they wouldn't be posting this question 
Riktor wrote:Spinnetti wrote:+1
It was good enough for Toyota (MR2). I've used it before. Just use rubber hose for any turns (I go to the auto parts store and pick out a hose that has the bends in it I need), and pipe for the straights. Works great.
Mandrel bent piping with a decent welder works too...
Assuming you have a mandrel bender or budget to buy the bends and a decent welder (I do). But then if they have all that, they wouldn't be posting this question
Decent exhaust shops have tons of scraps and will exchange said scraps for pennies on the dollar if you put their stickers on your car and maybe a patch on your suit. Just make sure to use nomex thread.
We have a buddy who works at Meineke. He offered to build our exhaust for free, but I turned him down in favor of a C5 system. Maybe he can handle this for us.
We have a buddy who works at Meineke. He offered to build our exhaust for free, but I turned him down in favor of a C5 system. Maybe he can handle this for us.
Have him charge cost of the metals and you're good to go.
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