The 24 Hours of Lemons Forums → Lemons Tech → I bought a Rolls Royce and want to build it.
Besides, Facebook won't be around that long, anyway....
One can hope. I have no idea what my wife did with all her time before FB.
$500b Market Value says it's here to stay for a while 
So I'm going to suggest that if it _eventually_ gets moved to "Epic Builds" and links break, then putting it off until later, while "the iron's hot right now", just kicks the "crapcan" [I had to do it] down the road.
The URLs this forum uses only have post/thread IDs in them, so whichever section the thread was moved to I'd expect the ID and URL to stay the same, no broken links.
If this won Org's choice, does this mean there was a more Heroic Fix than this?
There have been lots. The t-bird that had it's failed auto trans welded to be direct drive, the MR2 that ended up as a 1 cylinder, the guys who couldn't find a replacement clutch disk so they made their own by bonding brake shoes to the disk and so on.
My favorite that I witnessed was the guys who kicked a rod out of their supra on lap 3, couldn't find bearings at the auto parts store then drove ah hour to the nearest DIY junkyard that had another Toyota 6 cyl. Can't recall why they couldn't use a cherry picker or the other details but they ended up having to chisel a hole in the oil pan so they could reach in and remove rod bearings one at a time from the 200k mile car. Meanwhile the other teammates were removing bits of shrapnel from the engine, closing off the broken rod's oil feed hole on the crank and then "sealing" up the hole the rod made in the block with Home Depot expanding foam. It's a 24 hour race so it's around 1am when they get all done and promptly fall asleep. They go out with 10 minutes to go and it goes a third of a lap before it locks up solid.
I drove Sunday, and not once do I remember seeing the Rolls in action in front of me. It would have been fun to drag race down the back straight with it. 4 banger of power!
I was thinking either Barber in Alabama or Indie in AZ
Congrats Darko, car looked great and it's nice to see all the CHEATY FAB. Good luck at your next race.
darkostoj wrote:I was thinking either Barber in Alabama or Indie in AZ
Congrats Darko, car looked great and it's nice to see all the CHEATY FAB. Good luck at your next race.
Thanks!
I was kicking around the idea between Barber, and Inde.
Barber is roughly a 12 hour drive and Inde is a 28.
I am going to see how much I can get done on the car and possibly book the Barber race.
I was kicking around the idea between Barber, and Inde.
Barber is roughly a 12 hour drive and Inde is a 28.
I am going to see how much I can get done on the car and possibly book the Barber race.
Barber is a must do. In your car with its potential straight line speeds, would be considering Brainerd depending on which course they run. You could be a GOD on the Donnebrook (sic?). Barber on the other hand has a very long, very technical section that would not favor the Rolls.
I am going to see how much I can get done on the car and possibly book the Barber race.
Awesome! That means I'll get to see this beast in person.
Barber is a very technical course, so it will be interesting to see for sure.
BTW, did you ever weigh this thing? I'd really like to know just how big your big girl is.
darkostoj wrote:I am going to see how much I can get done on the car and possibly book the Barber race.
Awesome! That means I'll get to see this beast in person.
Barber is a very technical course, so it will be interesting to see for sure.
BTW, did you ever weigh this thing? I'd really like to know just how big your big girl is.
Have not weighed the car yet.
I was having a lot of problems with the rear axle so I am kicking around the idea of starting with a center section and making my own.
I am going to try and convert the front spindles to a factory corvette style hub, and try to use those same hubs in a full floater setup on the rear axle as well. I'm going to get a center section and fabricate/weld the ends on. I like the idea of running the same hubs on the front and rear of the car. I guess we'll see if it works!
The car was really scary with the brake pedal the way it was. I really need to fix that.
Car was overheating as well...I have no idea how I'm going figure that out. Car has the biggest radiator and fan I can fit on it. Plus temps were in the 50's. It's gonna be a lot worse when its hot.
Just slap another radiator on the roof. Running a coolant line across the windshield has no downside that I can think of.
Great job on the build, btw. I would love to see this at Barber.
Car was overheating as well...I have no idea how I'm going figure that out. Car has the biggest radiator and fan I can fit on it. Plus temps were in the 50's. It's gonna be a lot worse when its hot.
What are you running for engine oil cooling? We run a RX7 cooler on our 4.0l Jag and don't even need to run the fans (results may vary). The Jagvair is plumbed directly out of the motor (CNC'd adapter) while the Previute uses a sandwich adapter.
darkostoj wrote:Car was overheating as well...I have no idea how I'm going figure that out. Car has the biggest radiator and fan I can fit on it. Plus temps were in the 50's. It's gonna be a lot worse when its hot.
What are you running for engine oil cooling? We run a RX7 cooler on our 4.0l Jag and don't even need to run the fans (results may vary). The Jagvair is plumbed directly out of the motor (CNC'd adapter) while the Previute uses a sandwich adapter.
I put a big cooler in it, but those are hot running engines. I'm going to open up the hood to vent out some of the heat, and start to think creatively on other options.
We just got in a new Lamborghini Huracan. I have to say the center console looks familiar 
Rather than cut the hood open, why not create a low pressure area under the engine. Put a belly pan running back to the crossmember.
Rather than cut the hood open, why not create a low pressure area under the engine. Put a belly pan running back to the crossmember.
Putting a belly pan underneath the car will help with cooling?
cheseroo wrote:Rather than cut the hood open, why not create a low pressure area under the engine. Put a belly pan running back to the crossmember.
Putting a belly pan underneath the car will help with cooling?
In theory,a low pressure area under the car would create vacuum which would draw out the hot air......
darkostoj wrote:cheseroo wrote:Rather than cut the hood open, why not create a low pressure area under the engine. Put a belly pan running back to the crossmember.
Putting a belly pan underneath the car will help with cooling?
In theory,a low pressure area under the car would create vacuum which would draw out the hot air......
And in practice rx7s cool much better with belly pans than without, even on the street.
Much of the hood area is a high pressure zone. I would guess the low pressure area might fall immediately above the radiator which doesnt help you. So evacuate the air through the fender sides with a mini gurney flap at the leading edge of the outlet ducts or out the bottom with a little gurney flap at the trailing edge of the belly pan facing downwards.
Can you louver the hood? I don't care if it helps, it would look awesome!
You could install a front wheel well mounted oil cooler with a fan like they did in the air cooled 911s starting in about 1983.
Can you louver the hood? I don't care if it helps, it would look awesome!
I think i have a set of vintage 1960 camaro SS hood vents. I remember them being kind of fancy, i'll see how they look.
You could install a front wheel well mounted oil cooler with a fan like they did in the air cooled 911s starting in about 1983.
It already has a pretty big oil cooler on it mounted in front of the radiator.
When I do a belly pan, how far back should I go underneath? The whole engine bay? How thorough should I be in sealing it?
Also is there a way to make sure I can get all the air pockets out of the engine, to be guaranteed there is no air left in the cooling system?
Best way to ensure getting all the air out is to use a vacuum system.
Some other suggestions:
1. Make sure lower radiator hose isn't collapsing.
2. Make sure there are no other obstructions on the fluid side.
3. Make sure there is plenty of air getting to the radiator.
4. Make sure that the air goes through the radiator and not around it.
5. Make sure that air won't recirculate from behind the radiator back into front of it.
Best way to ensure getting all the air out is to use a vacuum system.
Some other suggestions:
1. Make sure lower radiator hose isn't collapsing.
2. Make sure there are no other obstructions on the fluid side.
3. Make sure there is plenty of air getting to the radiator.
4. Make sure that the air goes through the radiator and not around it.
5. Make sure that air won't recirculate from behind the radiator back into front of it.
To be clear, the poster is co-owner of the 47 Plymouth you raced against...and the poster was an honest to goodness cooling system engineer for Navistar. I second guessed him on our Plymouth cooling issue and was wrong...so very wrong.
CPT_Trans_Continental wrote:Can you louver the hood? I don't care if it helps, it would look awesome!
I think i have a set of vintage 1960 camaro SS hood vents. I remember them being kind of fancy, i'll see how they look.
ukemike wrote:You could install a front wheel well mounted oil cooler with a fan like they did in the air cooled 911s starting in about 1983.
It already has a pretty big oil cooler on it mounted in front of the radiator.
When I do a belly pan, how far back should I go underneath? The whole engine bay? How thorough should I be in sealing it?
Also is there a way to make sure I can get all the air pockets out of the engine, to be guaranteed there is no air left in the cooling system?
I'd run it back to the crossmember assuming there is space behind the crossmember for air to escape. You want a low pressure area behind the radiator so the high pressure air on the front side wants to get to that low pressure which happens to be on the other side of the radiator. As far as air bubbles, I try to get the nose high when filling. I also sometimes will use a Stant pressure tester to pressurize the system and force air out the highest part of the system
I use an "Airlift" brand coolant vacuum system at work. I use it to vacuum down and remove air from system, and also to verify repairs by watching for any vacuum decay.
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